New SWG Install - Power cord?

[tbkurtz]

Just had some work done on the pool. New liner, new above ground plumbing, and SWG install.

They didn't run power from the power pack to the circuit - they said I had to have an electrician come to do it. I plan on doing it myself...

I have both a 110 circuit (pump) and a 220 circuit (heater). I assume I can piggy back on the 110 circuit for the pump. I also have a 110 outlet after the pump.

I plan on wiring the power pack following the 110 directions provided, and plugging it directly into the outlet. Is there any issue with this, or do I need to make a junction on the circuit and wire it directly in? Id like to use something like this....
Pinfox 6ft 16 gauge 3 Prong Heavy Duty Universal AC Appliance Replacement Power Supply Cord Cable Kit 110V Pigtail, SJT 16AWG US Plug IEC (12A) - - Amazon.com

Thoughts?

 

[PoolGate]

You should wire it in with the pump. They are both 110 so should not be a problem. The SWCG should turn off when the pump is turned off so this is the recommended method.

 

[tbkurtz]

You should wire it in with the pump. They are both 110 so should not be a problem. The SWCG should turn off when the pump is turned off so this is the recommended method.

Either way would be wired with the pump - the outlet is the same circuit as the pump, controlled by a timer. I just need to know if wiring the box with a 3 prong cord is okay, versus wiring directly into the circuit.

 

[PoolGate]

Either way would be wired with the pump - the outlet is the same circuit as the pump, controlled by a timer. I just need to know if wiring the box with a 3 prong cord is okay, versus wiring directly into the circuit.

I think it needs to be a GFI circuit or outlet but sounds like it would work as long as the outlet is weather rated or otherwise protected from weather.

 

[tbkurtz]

I think it needs to be a GFI circuit or outlet but sounds like it would work as long as the outlet is weather rated or otherwise protected from weather.

Don't think I have a picture handy, but the outlet is one of the ones that has the foldable cover on it to protect from rain. The circuit itself is GFI circuit - I had a dedicated sub-panel run to the pool equipment last year so he installed it all with GFI circuits (the only things on it are the pump and heater right now).

 

[PoolGate]

Don't think I have a picture handy, but the outlet is one of the ones that has the foldable cover on it to protect from rain. The circuit itself is GFI circuit - I had a dedicated sub-panel run to the pool equipment last year so he installed it all with GFI circuits (the only things on it are the pump and heater right now).

Just so long as the SWCG is not able to run without the pump running. It is a safety issue.

 

[ajw22]

Does the switch that controls the pump also control the outlet you plan to plug the SWG into?

 

[tbkurtz]

Does the switch that controls the pump also control the outlet you plan to plug the SWG into?

Yes, its like this

[Subpanel 110] == [Timer] == [Outlet for Pump] == [Toggle Switch] == [Spare Outlet]
[Subpanel 220] == [Heater]

 

[ajw22]

Why not wire the SWG directly to the timer at the same points as the pump?

Problem i see with using a plug and the GFCI outlet is in my experience outdoor outlets and plugs get moisture and corrosion. Eventually that GFCI outlet will get sketchy and cause problems with your SWG. A hard wired circuit will be more reliable long term.

 

[tbkurtz]

Why not wire the SWG directly to the timer at the same points as the pump?

Problem i see with using a plug and the GFCI outlet is in my experience outdoor outlets and plugs get moisture and corrosion. Eventually that GFCI outlet will get sketchy and cause problems with your SWG. A hard wired circuit will be more reliable long term.

I was sort of thinking that, and hoping I was being over cautions. Can you suggest what conduit and wiring I should go look for at the home depot? Do the conduit connectors matter - is there a specific size that works with pool equipment and timers? I guess I should just do it the right way - it's a short run anyways.

 

[ajw22]

I was sort of thinking that, and hoping I was being over cautions. Can you suggest what conduit and wiring I should go look for at the home depot? Do the conduit connectors matter - is there a specific size that works with pool equipment and timers? I guess I should just do it the right way - it's a short run anyways.

I would look at what is used on the run from the timer to the pump and get the same for the SWG.

 

[jimmythegreek]

post a picture of the pad and the panel/conduit thats there and Ill give u the material list to do it right and to code

 

[tbkurtz]

post a picture of the pad and the panel/conduit thats there and Ill give u the material list to do it right and to code

Attached a pic of the timer and the wires coming from the power pack on the salt system. Wouldn't let me upload the third...

So the conduit goes from the timer, into an outlet for the pump, then into a paddle switch, then into a normal 110v 3 prong outlet. The junction boxes for all those don't see to have any additional punch outs.

 

[ajw22]

The TU40 has two sets of switched contacts. Run your SWG power right into the timer and use the middle NO and C contacts and you should be done. See https://www.lightbulbs.com/catalog/product_pdfs/tork/Tork%20TU40.pdf

You have a wiring diagram on the door. Study the way the pump is wired to the timer. Note that the white neutrals are all tied together. The hot line is switched.

You run a black wire from the left H terminal to the middle C. Then you connect the SWG hot wire to the middle NO. Connect the SWG neutral with the other whites. Connect the SWG ground wire with the green grounds. And then bond the SWG case to your bonding grid.

 

[tbkurtz]

The TU40 has two sets of switched contacts. Run your SWG power right into the timer and use the middle NO and C contacts and you should be done. See https://www.lightbulbs.com/catalog/product_pdfs/tork/Tork TU40.pdf

You have a wiring diagram on the door. Study the way the pump is wired to the timer. Note that the white neutrals are all tied together. The hot line is switched.

You run a black wire from the left H terminal to the middle C. Then you connect the SWG hot wire to the middle NO. Connect the SWG neutral with the other whites. Connect the SWG ground wire with the green grounds. And then bond the SWG case to your bonding grid.

I'm with you except the bonding grid part. Everything else looks exactly like how the pump is wired.

 

[tbkurtz]

Oh, the wire into the ground? Hmmm, I don't think I have a grid...

 

[ajw22]

I'm with you except the bonding grid part.

See page 16 of the manual, section 3.7 --> https://www.jandy.com/~/media/zodiac/global/downloads/h/h0613500.pdf?force=1



See Figure 6 on page 15 that shows "TO EARTH BONDING POINT" for Power Pack and Pump.

 

[tbkurtz]

See page 16 of the manual, section 3.7 --> https://www.jandy.com/~/media/zodiac/global/downloads/h/h0613500.pdf?force=1

View attachment 84436

See Figure 6 on page 15 that shows "TO EARTH BONDING POINT" for Power Pack and Pump.

Got it - I understand now. Currently the only thing bonded is the pump, so I should connect wire to the SWG power pack and tie that into the same bonding point on the pump. I also have a heater that was installed last year, but does not appear to be bonded - but it's on the other side of the wooden fence. Should I tie that into the same bonding grid also?

Another question about the power wiring. I got it working as you described above and I understand why it's wired that way now, but I ran into a minor problem. I have a paddle switch on the line that goes from the timer to the pump - so I can turn off the pump quickly. Ideally that paddle switch would turn off the SWG as well - but because I connected the SWG directly to separate posts on the timer, it remains on.

Could I put the SWG hot line on the same hot line as the pump, so they would both be controlled by the paddle switch? Logistically it would function correctly, but unsure about regulations and safety.

 

[ajw22]

Got it - I understand now. Currently the only thing bonded is the pump, so I should connect wire to the SWG power pack and tie that into the same bonding point on the pump. I also have a heater that was installed last year, but does not appear to be bonded - but it's on the other side of the wooden fence. Should I tie that into the same bonding grid also?

Yes, the heater should have a bonding point and connected to the bonding grid.

Another question about the power wiring. I got it working as you described above and I understand why it's wired that way now, but I ran into a minor problem. I have a paddle switch on the line that goes from the timer to the pump - so I can turn off the pump quickly. Ideally that paddle switch would turn off the SWG as well - but because I connected the SWG directly to separate posts on the timer, it remains on.

The timer has a manual on/off switch. Not that it matters but I don't see why that paddle switch was necessary.

Could I put the SWG hot line on the same hot line as the pump, so they would both be controlled by the paddle switch? Logistically it would function correctly, but unsure about regulations and safety.

You would need to connect the SWG in the paddle switch and not the timer to have the paddle switch control both.

 

[tbkurtz]

Yes, the heater should have a bonding point and connected to the bonding grid.

The timer has a manual on/off switch. Not that it matters but I don't see why that paddle switch was necessary.

You would need to connect the SWG in the paddle switch and not the timer to have the paddle switch control both.

Paddle switch existed before I bought the house, when the circuit went all the way to the main panel, and the timer was located inside. When I added the sub panel and heater, I had the timer located outside as well. However, the paddle switch is still super convenient because it's right next to the pump, filter, and SWG. The timer is on the opposite side of the fence next to the sub panel, and heater.

What's the reasoning against putting both the pump hot and SWG hot on the same contact in the timer?

By the way, thanks for all your help. I've learned a ton in the past 24 hours.