New pump install

TK Knoxville

Gold Supporter
Apr 25, 2019
7
Knoxville, TN
Hi folks!
At the beginning of winter, my old (10+) year Hayward pump crapped out. Thanks for the advice on tenting to protect the pump area. Worked like a charm.
Decided to save a few hundred and replace it with a highly rated pump I found online - XtremePowerUS 2hp variable speed


Okay, getting ready to install:
I assumed that the connection parameters would be standard. Ha! Poor naive me. Post pump connection should be okay (there’s a maintenance connector) but the pre-pump connection is problematic. The pump sits about 1” higher than the old one. It seems I need to raise the 2 suction side connections up about an inch.
1) This seems doable to me (I am okay with basic plumbing repairs), but thinking about it vexes me. Should I give it a shot or hire a pro?
2) If I use a regular extension and then connector, it might raise 1.5” or more (I can raise the pump with 2” concrete block and rubber mat to help accommodate if I need to I suppose).
3) Can I use a compression fitting? Is that better or no?
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If you don’t see any problems with the plan so far, here’s a dilemma. If I put a little pressure on the cut pipe above, water steadily runs out in a way that makes me think that the water has found a level right at the elbow. The water will run (seemingly) as long as I press on the pipe. Is this because the weight of the water in the pool is pushing it that far up the pipe? If so:
1) If I cut to place the extenders at the arrow for both returns, will water constantly run out making it impossible to do the PVC work? Will it drain until it finds a new level? If so, how much water might I lose? For perspective, from concrete to the elbow joint is 5 1/2”.

Alright wise gentlemen (and women). What do you think? Thanks a ton in advance!
 

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Should be a fairly simple modification. As far as the water is concerned, I'm assuming those horizontal returns are at the pool water level as opposed to (the normal) above water level? Can you plug the returns at the skimmer(?) and main drain(?) to prevent the joints getting wet as you try to glue them?
 
Hello my Tennessee friend.
Quick plumbing item.
1) Are you sure the water is not just residual water in the valve bodies? Just want to check before leading you down a path.
2) You don't want to put in fittings too close to the inlet of the pump. Most pump manufacturers will have a minimum distance of straight pipe before the inlet (turbulance, loss of efficiency, pump life impacts). 5x-10x diameter, etc.... The best thing to do is to raise the suction pipe(s) elevation.

Suction Pipes
If it isn't residual in the valve body, It is "likely" that you are seeing water level comparable to the level of water in the pool. They will equalize. Only additional "forces" like circulation, wind, etc. would change the water height in the pipe.

If you need to work below the current water level your options are what was previously stated, plug the skimmers . You may have plugs they use for winterization (gizzmo or similar). These can be blown through to remove the water from the line. The pain is if you have a main drain running to the pump directly (one of your two suction lines). If this is the case, you can try to plug it but it is more likely you will need to turn off the make-up water line and drain or evaporate off a couple inches of the poolwater to clear the area you need to work. What diameter is your plumbing? Standard PVC fitting chart below. Take H subtract G and this is the minimum. Probably want to give yourself 1/2" margin or whatever the excess fitting takeoff for the new elevation is for the pump. Measure twice cut once on this one.

Capture.JPG
 
Thanks to Jafarus for your advice. Since it’s been cold(ish) here, haven’t been in a rush to continue but the time is now. Jt, hopefully I’ll be replying soon regarding this new pump.

Here goes:
Wiring the motor... some confusion.
Replacing a 1hp, single speed, Hayward super pump. 220. Here’s a photo of the wiring in old motor. As you can see 2 black wires going to L1 & L2 and green ground wire.
94FBA667-D81D-47BA-8868-3FC1672FA46E.jpeg

Second & third are the wiring diagram and photo of new pump (wires go to speed switch).
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1980C508-B33E-4670-A58A-05AD308F8A53.jpeg

Now, I assume the two black wires are the same? Is this correct?
Do I want to connect both blacks to L1 & L2 (black & yellow wires above) and ground to the screw indicated? If it matters, I know which wire in the original pump is which.

I know a little about a lot of things and electrical is one of those things.

Thanks everyone for your help!
 
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Hooked mine up two weeks ago - love that little thing! running it 16 hours a day on low and I can't even hear it anymore :) I was a little confused about the hookup myself, but consulted with friends that knew better than i did. One black goes to 'line' slot on the motor and the other black goes to the 'line' slot on the switch itself. Ground is labeled. My hookup was for the 230v. Simplest hookup I've ever done, but like you, I know enough to be dangerous. If I can help, just drop me a note - jp
 
TK - Curious as to what you think about that pump you bought... any issues, comments, regrets?
Hey JT. I wanted to respond to your question about this pump. Finally got it plumbed and wired correctly (thanks to David at Lowe’s, NOT the company. TLDR
at the bottom.
I paid $225 for this pump on Amazon. To replace the original Hayward would have been over $500. I’m an amateur DIYer and feared the tricky plumbing change and the electrical. I should have been more confident.
Plumbing: This pump was taller and I had to raise my intake by an inch and a half. And plumb the PVC at several joints for the set-in. I used half of a 1x1 rubber patio tread from Lowe’s (on my concrete pad), carefully measured the connections and
Ended up with a small leak that I won’t correct.
The three wire (1 green and 2 black) setup I had was confusing, wired it incorrectly (based on internet research). Blew the primary breaker. Started to call a professional and went to Lowe’s instead. He set me straight.

TLDR:
Saw many posts on Amazon re: lack of wiring instructions and cracked/broken posts on the motor housing. My experience also. The upshot is, the pump seems to be (8 days in) running as it should. Wiring mistake didn’t affect the pump. So... go for it if it’s not too late.
 
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