New Pool - Well Fill - Requesting Double Check on my idea please!

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I have a new pool about to be plastered. Current estimate is about 56k gallons. Water trucks aren't cheap around here. I don't want to pay 5kish in water if I can help it.

I have a larger than average well-pump on it. Great pressure. I can run 5 sprinkler heads on my irrigation and easily take a shower at the same time etc. etc.

Just wanted to ask a few questions to make sure my idea here isn't a bad one.

My well water Chemistry:

Item	Your Results	EPA Guidelines for Safe Water
TDS	103	PPM 500 PPM or Less
pH	7.2	between 6.5 to 8.5
Hardness	40 PPM	Over 100 PPM is considered hard water
Iron	.3 PPM	.3 PPM or Less
Nitrate	0 PPM	10 PPM or Less
Nitrite	0 PPM	Less than 1.0 PPM

Hydrogen Sulfide NO
AKA I think my aquaphor has some pretty great water. The only thing that worries me is the .3 ppm of iron.
I had another test done and there weren't any other heavy metals that seems to be an issue.

I'm thinking that iron is just enough that I should try some mitigation or might have to manage the ferrous content over time after the fact.

If you're with me still thanks!

So questions:
1. I was considering buying Pentak Big Blue Filter housing as suggested on here and running the water through a 0.5 micron filter. It seems that would help with some of the ferrous iron although some people state that's smoke and mirrors and nothing mechicanical will work.
I figured it couldn't hurt... but if you think just getting a cheaper filter I might go that route. The Pentak should have a better flow rate though I'm thinking?
I also saw someone put two Big Blue's in series and go from 10 to .5... could do that too... to grab some sediment in first filter first. I'm thinking thats overkill. I have a whole house 5ppm filter and I don't see that much sediment in there after months use.

2. Fill rate - is that a concern? 56K gallons is a bunch to fill from a hose. I'm thinking I want to run at least 2 hoses at once. Even still it might take a few days to fill up. Is that an issue with the plaster? Do I need to worry about it taking that long to fill? I've read you most certainly do NOT interrupt the filling process but I haven't found any information on it having to be done in 30 hours or less or something.

3. I also read that I don't want anything touching the plaster. Normally hose is wrapped in a cloth etc. That won't really work if I have water shooting out of the Big Blue as pictured here elsewhere on the forum (and below). Perhaps I try to fasten the Big Blue to the drain or something so it isn't sitting on plaster? Or maybe put a base in somehow before using it and then just shoot the water on the base as a water truck would do?

Any help appreciated!

 

[Texas Splash]

I'll pass along some thoughts:
1 - Test your own water. If you are going somewhere for free testing you run the risk of poor water chemistry.
2 - The more you can filter the better, however success depends on the characteristics of the material as it is coming from the well.
3 - Not sure about a time limit per-se to fill the pool as it relates to overall plaster curing, but certainly keep it filling as to not have a discolored waterline. One thought is the longer it takes to fill, the longer the water is stagnant and unable to be chlorinated to prevent algae.
4 - As soon as the pool is full and you can run the pump, circulate water for at least 30 minutes before taking a sample for testing - preferably with a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit of your own.
5 - New water has no CYA (stabilizer), so be prepared to add at least 30 ppm for now.
6 - Test/balance the pH to about 7.2 - 7.4. The higher the pH the more chance or reaction with iron.
7 - Add 1-2 ppm of liquid chlorine and watch carefully for reaction to iron. Once the CYA and pH are in control, balance the FC to the CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. It is important to maintain a well-balanced FC-to-CYA ration to prevent algae. If you develop algae, a SLAM Process will be required after the initial 30 day cure process and that will take a lot of chlorine for that sized pool. A SLAM also increases the chance of iron reaction and staining, so it's important to avoid algae at all costs.

Certainly filling from a non-iron source is most ideal, but cost and availability of fresh water is a tough decision.

 

[streamlined]

I'll pass along some thoughts:
1 - Test your own water. If you are going somewhere for free testing you run the risk of poor water chemistry.
2 - The more you can filter the better, however success depends on the characteristics of the material as it is coming from the well.
3 - Not sure about a time limit per-se to fill the pool as it relates to overall plaster curing, but certainly keep it filling as to not have a discolored waterline. One thought is the longer it takes to fill, the longer the water is stagnant and unable to be chlorinated to prevent algae.
4 - As soon as the pool is full and you can run the pump, circulate water for at least 30 minutes before taking a sample for testing - preferably with a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit of your own.
5 - New water has no CYA (stabilizer), so be prepared to add at least 30 ppm for now.
6 - Test/balance the pH to about 7.2 - 7.4. The higher the pH the more chance or reaction with iron.
7 - Add 1-2 ppm of liquid chlorine and watch carefully for reaction to iron. Once the CYA and pH are in control, balance the FC to the CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. It is important to maintain a well-balanced FC-to-CYA ration to prevent algae. If you develop algae, a SLAM Process will be required after the initial 30 day cure process and that will take a lot of chlorine for that sized pool. A SLAM also increases the chance of iron reaction and staining, so it's important to avoid algae at all costs.

Certainly filling from a non-iron source is most ideal, but cost and availability of fresh water is a tough decision.

Thanks for the reply!

You were right about doing your own test. So I bought one and my neighbor (also getting a pool and uses same aquaphor) went and had his tested. That .3 ppm reading I got was bogus.
We have between .005 to .01 PPM iron. Which I would think is too small to worry about for mitigation / chemistry!