New Pool Owner - First Water Test

[KBoy420]

Hey All,
Just came across this forum - happy to have found it. We recently re-opened a 27-ft above ground pool that was sitting empty for 10 years. What a chore clearing all that brush and literally pulling every root. But we did it, the new liner went in great, and the pool was filled this week (approx. 17,000 gallons).

Got myself a Taylor test kit and verified there was no chlorine in the delivered water. My initial test of the untreated water went fine, everything right in line (except no chlorine obviously).

Went to my local pool supply store and explained the situation and they sold me 2 gallons of "Liquid Shock". Following the directions I added 1.3 bottles of liquid shock.

I let the filter run about 2 hours and re-tested. My free chlorine reading was 3 and my total chlorine reading was also 3. From Googling, it seems those two readings should always be the same (or very close), otherwise you have a "chlorine lock" situation? Ok, so we got chlorine in the pool.

But my pH went up, 7.8-8.0. I also saw from Googling that shocking can temporarily raise the pH. Is that accurate?

I didnt know if I should just wait it out or go buy muriatic acid to lower the pH. Thanks all!

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! I hope you have some before & after pics for the 10-year closed pool. I wonder if that's a record here? Anyways, please post full set of water test results from your Taylor kit. Which one did you get? Is it the K-2006C (hopefully)? Don't forget to update your signature.

 

[KBoy420]

I'll have to resize the pics before I can upload them. Think you guys will be impressed. And I have the k2005 test kit.

So perhaps I'm not doing the tests correctly (seems straight forward enough). To recap, all I did was add 1.3 gallons of liquid shock. I tested chlorine levels 1 hour after adding. I got readings of 3 for both FC/TC.

It is now 4.5 hours after adding the liquid shock. I realize these are not full results.

FC - clear, no reading
TC - clear, no reading
Bromine - less than 2
pH - 8 or higher
Acid demand - 2 drops r-0005 to get pH to 7.6
CYA - overfilled small tube and could still see black dot

Appreciate any advice. Just want to make sure it's "safe" before the kiddos jump in. Realize that pH is too high. But confused where all the chlorine went.

 

[Flying Tivo]

You need some CYA at least 30ppm worth. Most of your FC was killed by UV rays from the sun. Please read up on ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry so you understand how to manage your pool. Follow thisFC/CYA Levels so you keep the correct levels of FC. You dont need TC only FC and you need the DPD test to complete your kit. You can also order the speedstir make testing easier. Yes you can add muriatic acid to lower ph to 7.6.

 

[KBoy420]

You need some CYA at least 30ppm worth. Most of your FC was killed by UV rays from the sun. Please read up on ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry so you understand how to manage your pool. Follow thisFC/CYA Levels so you keep the correct levels of FC. You dont need TC only FC and you need the DPD test to complete your kit. You can also order the speedstir make testing easier. Yes you can add muriatic acid to lower ph to 7.6.

I will read both links now. One thing to add is that this water is less than 48-hours in the pool and it was delivered by a pool water supply company. I have no idea the condition of the water as it came, was told it was "perfectly balanced drinking water".

So CYA is also referred to stabilizer, correct? So while I'm studying, what would you suggest I get to add to get this to some sort of baseline that is usable?

 

[Flying Tivo]

It is usable as long as you have FC/CYA which assures you sanitation. Please use the PoolMath app to calculate additions. Also please fill in your signature with your pool info, like mine. You need about 4lbs of dry Cya, and 3/4 gallon of liquid 12% chlorine to get to 6FC/30cya for a 17,000 gal pool. After that about 1/2 a gallon per day, until you get your test kit so you can precisely add whatever you pool needs.

 

[CraigChing]

As delivered it may have been "perfectly balanced drinking water" but it won’t stay that way for long. As Felipe says, get some stabilizer in the water and ensure you have good chlorine levels every day, don’t let FC fall below the minimum for your CYA level, see the FC/CYA chart:

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[KBoy420]

New test results from thia morning. Called our installer last night and he said it needed more chlorine and stabilizer. I added 4 lbs of stabilizer (added per instructions, slowly, thru skimmer) and 2 gallons of liquid chlorine (10%) based on his recommendation (poured around circumference of pool) He also told me to drop a tab of chlorine in the skimmer basket. This was at approx 8pm last night. We let the filter/pump run all night, so it's been almost exactly 12 hours.

Test Results:
FC - 10
TC - 10
Br - 20
pH - 8
AD - 3 drops to 7.6 pH
TA - 24 drops (240 ppm)
CH - 25 drops (250 ppm)
CYA - 45 ppm

CYA test is kind of wonky. Kept getting different results but 45 ppm seemed to be when the water got cloudy enough in the tube that the dot got "lighter".

What next? Thank you

Edit - local pool shop test results:

FC - 15.13 ppm
TC - 15.51 ppm
CC - 0.38 ppm
pH - 7.9
Hardness - 121 ppm
Alkalinity - 162 ppm
CYA - 37 ppm
Copper - 0 ppm
Iron - 0.1 ppm

They said use it but limit drinking thr water and do nothing until retesting Mon/Tues (today and tomorrow will see temps >100 degrees in Eastern PA)

 

[Flying Tivo]

You really need to decide which way to follow, either TFP or Poolman/store. No mix and match. I would remove the Puck from the skimmer, do not backwash for at least a week as you will lose the CYA thats in the filter. Your CYA test go by multiples of 10 so round up, your cya is 50. Follow the FC/CYA Levels to keep FC in range. You really need to re read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry, we dont recommend adding CYA through the skimmer(or anc chem for that matter), we prefer the sock method. Again, pool store test results are notoriously inaccurate as you can compare with your own results. We trust your result more than them. So please move on from the Pool$tore.

 

[KBoy420]

You really need to decide which way to follow, either TFP or Poolman/store. No mix and match. I would remove the Puck from the skimmer, do not backwash for at least a week as you will lose the CYA thats in the filter. Your CYA test go by multiples of 10 so round up, your cya is 50. Follow the FC/CYA Levels to keep FC in range. You really need to re read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry, we dont recommend adding CYA through the skimmer(or anc chem for that matter), we prefer the sock method. Again, pool store test results are notoriously inaccurate as you can compare with your own results. We trust your result more than them. So please move on from the Pool$tore.

Got it. I've read thru those links and understand more today than yesterday. Will research the ahock method of adding chemicals. I just vacuumed and vrushed the sides to try and agitate the water more. Sun is directly overhead beating down. Tested before vacuuming and again after - chlorine levels are unchanged.

The wife and kids are bugging like crazy. Would you let your families in with chlorine levels that high? Even if just for an hour? With a CYA of 50 ppm, SLAM is around 20, we are at 15. Other posts on this forum seem to say it's safe to swim in as long as you are below the shock/SLAM level, no? I don't know if I trust my own CYA results, because the 4 lbs bag I bought says using all will raise to 30 ppm in 16,000 gallons.

 

[Flying Tivo]

Yes it is safe to swim if FC levels is above Target and or below Slam levels for CYA, you also need to be able to see the bottom of the pool for safety reasons. As for the CYA test you can reuse the mixture several times to get a reading and average, it has to be with your back to the sun and the vial at waist level. Just glance do not stare. Its also helpful if you fill up to a level and glance then next level and glance and so on. If you are in slam mode then you need the pump running 24/7.

 

[KBoy420]

Yes it is safe to swim if FC levels is above Target and or below Slam levels for CYA, you also need to be able to see the bottom of the pool for safety reasons. As for the CYA test you can reuse the mixture several times to get a reading and average, it has to be with your back to the sun and the vial at waist level. Just glance do not stare. Its also helpful if you fill up to a level and glance then next level and glance and so on. If you are in slam mode then you need the pump running 24/7.

Thank you. Can clearly see the bottom - water is crystal clear actually. We've had the pump running non-stop since 8am yesterday morning.

So if I use my own reading, CYA is at 50.

CYA: 50, FC 6-8, SLAM 20.
-or-
CYA: 40, FC 5-7, SLAM 16

So with my chlorine test I'm off the gauge (>10) and pool store said it's at 15.3 ppm, so we're close, but under both SLAM levels (for both CYA of 40 or 50), so guess we will jump in!

 

[Flying Tivo]

pool store said it'

You really need to get that out of your system. We TRUST your result more than anything out there. Keep your FC at 8 so you have a cushion since you are learning to care for your pool the TFP way.

 

[CraigChing]

So with my chlorine test I'm off the gauge (>10)

Your signature says you have the K2005, is that correct? You’ll want to get a FAS-DPD test for chlorine so you aren’t limited to testing at 10 ppm FC and stay away from pool store testing. You can supplement your 2005 with the FAS-DPD, but for future reference, the TF-100 and the K2006c have it as well.

 

[magiteck]

Add this to your K2005 and you’ll basically have a K2006 and all the tests you should need:

FAS/DPD Chlorine Test Kit

tftestkits.net

 

[KBoy420]

HI All,

Thanks again for the great advice. So after a day of heavy use, the chlorine levels have dropped and now I'll need to maintain. New readings:

FC - 3
TC - 3
Br - 6
pH - 7.8
AD - 2 drops
TA - 150 ppm
CH - 160 ppm
CYA - 30 ppm

Yesterday I added back in 3 chlorine tabs to the floater and 1 tab to the skimmer basket. I know about the ahock method now for adding solid chemicals, do you guys advise for/against chlorine tabs in the skimmer?

I also just found the Pool Math app so playing around with that now.

 

[JJ_Tex]

Do you really have bromine in your pool? Assuming that is an error, you need to get your FC up to 12 using liquid chlorine.

I also took a peek at your pics in post #3. I've never seen a pool with trees/bushes growing out of it. How did you remove those without damaging the pool?

 

[KBoy420]

Do you really have bromine in your pool? Assuming that is an error, you need to get your FC up to 12 using liquid chlorine.

I also took a peek at your pics in post #3. I've never seen a pool with trees/bushes growing out of it. How did you remove those without damaging the pool?

My k-2005 test kit is showing bromine. I'll be honest, I only have 3 days experience testing pool water, so perhaps I'm doing it wrong, but that's what my comparator block is showing me.

As for the pool work, it took a ton of work. All those bushes/trees w ere cut down to about 6 inches above ground level. I then dug out the roots from both the inside/outside of the pool and filled the voids with dirt. Then I picked out literally every single root I could find turning the sand/soil repeatedly to make sure I didnt miss any. Tamped everything down. 2 tons of new sand on top. Viola. The pool was originally installed in 1993 and used up till about 2007. It has been empty/overgrown since 2008-2009.

 

[Texas Splash]

That is CRAZY! Wow. What a job. Hats-off to you on that one for sure.

For the FC test, the 2005 only gives you the basic overall total chlorine (yellow). That's why you need the FAS-DPD portion which essentially converts your 2005 to a K-2006 test kit. You can't beat the accuracy of the FAS-DPD testing.

 

[MITBeta]

Yesterday I added back in 3 chlorine tabs to the floater and 1 tab to the skimmer basket. I know about the ahock method now for adding solid chemicals, do you guys advise for/against chlorine tabs in the skimmer?

The skimmer is not a good place to add chemicals in general because it concentrates whatever chemicals you're adding in your pool equipment. If you were to lose power during a chemical addition, you risk damaging your equipment, for example, with highly acidic water.

How did your CYA go from 40-50 yesterday to 30 today? I wouldn't use any more Trichlor tabs or anything else with stabilizer in it until you're confident in your CYA readings.