New Pool Owner converting to SWG

[barbc2000]

HI all,

I'm new to TFP and new to pool ownership. The IG pool came with our new house last summer. It is 16 years old. The previous owner decided to not maintain it last summer, so when we moved in mid-August it was a mess. Lots of leaves, worms, etc in the deep end. We cleaned out the debris, vacuumed and shocked. I had the water tested several times at Lesley Pools and they kept telling me I had metals. Finally got rid of the metals but chlorine never registered. Never got the water balanced last summer and decided to get a closing kit and call it season done.

We decided to convert to a SWG this year. Husband installed it and it is ready to go. The first thing it says is to balance the water before starting the generator.

Back to Lesley's and of course we have metals again. Our SWG manual says metal and phosphorous should be zero (they are a big consumer of chlorine and our FC keeps reading zero). Our phosphorous was 2178 so I added NoPhos. I haven't gone back to Lesley's yet because I found this place.

Here are my tests results today using the Taylor K-1004 kit
FC 2
TC 3
pH 7.8
TA 190

The Clorox test strips kept telling me the FC was zero and TC was 3-5 (kept throwing in 2 lbs )
The water is clear but I definitely see algae.

My questions are:
1. Are metals important? I don't see any test kits that test for that but Lesley's seems to focus on this.
2. Should I adjust pH and TA before adding more chlorine?
3. Should I use the SWG to get FC levels up or should I keep adding shock?

Help!
Thank you,
Barb

 

[PoolGate]

Follow guidelines on this site in pool school for chemical levels. Metals are not tracked here however metals like copper (used in algaecides) can stain equipment and turn blond hair green. You saltwater generator does not care about metals and also does not care about phosphates. You can turn it on any time as long as your salt level is correct. I suggest testing the salt level with the Taylor K-1766 kit. Phosphates also are not tracked on this site because if you follow proper TFP chemical levels it is not a factor. You need to get the larger Taylor test kit (TF-100) which also lets you test for CYA and CH (calcium). Without an accurate CYA test, you cannot determine what chlorine level is good as it is integrally linked.

 

[Strawberryshortcake]

Hi Barb! Welcome!
Your K-1004 is certainly better then the test strips, but still not adequate enough to take control of your pool. First thing first, you should order:
TFPro Test Kit
or
Taylor k-2006c
And also get the speed/smartstir with either kit. It is worth it.
Yes, both are expensive options, but - how much money have you spent buying things the pool store suggested, and still haven't been able to enjoy your pool...?? A proper test kit is vital to getting rid of all the confusion and knowing exactly what to buy. You never need algaecides, "shock" packets, phosphate removers, etc...

Next, stay out of Leslies!
Next, throw away the test strips!

If you had metals, and you did not drain your pool or exchange a large amount of water, then you still have metals. They are just being sequestered, most likely. Which is fine, as long as you can keep them that way without spending a lot of money. Metals are usually the only thing we trust a pool store to test.
They aren't harming your water, they can just stain your surface, or make your water look pea-soup green (but it would still be CLEAR.) Leslies probably focused on this because the stuff they sell you for it is expensive.
Did your pool have staining before "getting rid of the metals"?

SWG is GREAT, fantastic idea! But, you still need one of those test kits above. You absolutely have to know your CYA level. Your SWG might not be making enough chlorine to keep up with the sun if you don't have enough, or you might have so much CYA that your SWG isn't making enough to overcome it. Either is bad, so you have to find out what it is.

As you don't seem to have a CYA number, my suggestion would be to turn off your SWG for now, and add 1 and 1/2 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine to your pool per day, until one of the above test kits arrive. Then we can help you properly. For one, your TA is high, especially for a SWG pool, so that needs to be addressed.

Get the Pool Math app from your phones app store, also.
What size is your SWG?

 

[barbc2000]

CYA 50
CH 250

These are from test strips.

SWG is 45,000 gal. We have not added salt yet and turned it on because it says we have to have chemicals balanced first.

I do have the Pool math app.
I have a 15lb box of chlorine (granules). I'd like to use that up. How much should I add until test kit arrives?

Thank you!

 

[Strawberryshortcake]

What type of granules? Is it Sodium dichlor or Calcium hypochlorite?
If it is Sodium Dichlor, I would not add any of this until you can test CYA for yourself without test strips. If you are at 50, you could quickly add way too much and need to drain your pool. If you are even higher, well, it'll just get bad faster. Sodium Dichlor is stabilized, which means it has CYA.

If it's Calcium Hypochlorite, you could possibly use that as you have a liner pool. Need to know the strength.

 

[barbc2000]

What type of granules? Is it Sodium dichlor or Calcium hypochlorite?
If it is Sodium Dichlor, I would not add any of this until you can test CYA for yourself without test strips. If you are at 50, you could quickly add way too much and need to drain your pool. If you are even higher, well, it'll just get bad faster. Sodium Dichlor is stabilized, which means it has CYA.

If it's Calcium Hypochlorite, you could possibly use that as you have a liner pool. Need to know the strength.

Calcium hypochlorite 56.44%

 

[splashpad]

How much should I add until test kit arrives?

Your sig mentions a Poolmaster 5-way test kit, is that not a liquid drops test kit? ETA:: it can't accurately measure FC (free chlorine), but it can give you an idea

P.S. ETA :: Welcome to the forum! You will get lots of help and info from most everyone, feel free to ask for questions and clarifications on anything you see And expect the same!

 

[Strawberryshortcake]

Okay, I would suggest 2lbs a day added in the evening until your test kit arrives. You most likely need to slam your pool, so this is just to hold things where they are right now. This will bring you to 5.5 or thereabouts...

I prefer to dissolve cal hypo in a bucket. It does not dissolve very fast in my experience. I stir it up with a stick.
If you do that, *only* add the cal hypo to the water in the bucket. Never add water to the powder. It can explode. Cal hypo is one of the most dangerous pool chemicals...keep it AWAY from pool tabs!

Since you have a liner pool, CH level is not a vital to you. Low CH doesn't matter at all, but super high CH can still damage things, so keep that in mind. You don't want to chlorinate with cal-hypo forever. Get that test kit on order and find out who sells 10-12% liquid chlorine in your area. You can have a look at this thread and see if anyone near you has posted.

 

[Strawberryshortcake]

Oh, should mention -
You're going to want to test your salt levels BEFORE you add salt. Lot's of pool chemicals add salt as well, so you could have a good amount already. You don't want to add too much when it's time.
Most people will advise you to get this salt test kit. For some reason, it's always on backorder when I look at it...I do recommend this one.

I personally have been using These salt test strips. They are working just fine for me, but some people wouldn't trust them no matter what. I personally didn't feel the need for 100% accuracy on this as long as my SWG wasn't complaining, it was a risk I was willing to take.

 

[barbc2000]

Your sig mentions a Poolmaster 5-way test kit, is that not a liquid drops test kit? ETA:: it can't accurately measure FC (free chlorine), but it can give you an idea

P.S. ETA :: Welcome to the forum! You will get lots of help and info from most everyone, feel free to ask for questions and clarifications on anything you see And expect the same!

yes, I have used several different test methods. I have two liquid test kits and two strips. Strips say zero FC! Liquid tests registered a little FC.

 

[barbc2000]

Okay, I would suggest 2lbs a day added in the evening until your test kit arrives. You most likely need to slam your pool, so this is just to hold things where they are right now. This will bring you to 5.5 or thereabouts...

I prefer to dissolve cal hypo in a bucket. It does not dissolve very fast in my experience. I stir it up with a stick.
If you do that, *only* add the cal hypo to the water in the bucket. Never add water to the powder. It can explode. Cal hypo is one of the most dangerous pool chemicals...keep it AWAY from pool tabs!

Since you have a liner pool, CH level is not a vital to you. Low CH doesn't matter at all, but super high CH can still damage things, so keep that in mind. You don't want to chlorinate with cal-hypo forever. Get that test kit on order and find out who sells 10-12% liquid chlorine in your area. You can have a look at this thread and see if anyone near you has posted.

Yes we stir it in a bucket then add.
Thanks for your help.

 

[splashpad]

yes, I have used several different test methods. I have two liquid test kits and two strips. Strips say zero FC! Liquid tests registered a little FC.

You can toss the test strips (as already advised) Which parameters can your liquid titration tests check? (some will be doubled)

Here are my tests results today using the Taylor K-1004 kit
FC 2
TC 3
pH 7.8
TA 190

Was your TC # based on color endpoint change?

You've done good so far!