Happy Memorial Day! Dumb question... We cannot tell which pipes are open and shut. I should have taken pics when we moved in! Thank you!Welcome to TFP!One step at a time. You'll get it.
New motor/filter not running......
- Thread starter loliver6104
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 49,395
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
The valves with the red handle appear to be open. The round gate valve we can't tell unless you turn it one way or the other and watch things there at the pool or pad. The wildcard in all of this is whether those valves are actually working (internally). They are not the most ideal for pool use, so at some point you might look at replacing them with pool 3-ways valves.
We have always had the pool "drain" shut bc one of our skimmers was always a little weak. Also I have been scooping the algae that is floating on the top of the water 2 times daily, without it running we cannot put any chemicals in.... which is killing me. Should I brush the steps and walls without a pump running? I also saw somewhere on this site we could use a subversive pool pump to circulate chemicals? Should I throw my vacuum in there? Thank you so much for taking time out of your day.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 49,395
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
It's okay to leave the drain closed. Skimmers are more important IMO. Scoop, brush, sweep all you can to remove debris. That will also help the liquid chlorine. Yes, if you can get your hands on a sump pump to move water around until the main pump is running that's better than nothing. For now though, only pour about 1 gallon of liquid chlorine into the water each day and brush it around a bit.
Big question - Do you have a TF-Series (or Taylor K-2006C) test kit? If not, that needs to be a priority in order to start the SLAM Process once your system is operating again. The proper test kit is key to ensuring a successful SLAM Process. I highly recommend either the TF-100 or TF-Pro series (link in my signature), but the Taylor K-2006C is good as well.
Big question - Do you have a TF-Series (or Taylor K-2006C) test kit? If not, that needs to be a priority in order to start the SLAM Process once your system is operating again. The proper test kit is key to ensuring a successful SLAM Process. I highly recommend either the TF-100 or TF-Pro series (link in my signature), but the Taylor K-2006C is good as well.
Working on sig now! I do not have that testing kit... will get right on it. I forgot to mention our winter cover was stabbed by a couple branches during a bad storm in March.... that is how i think it got so bad. We did find a small leak on one of the pipes, husband is working on that. We scooped the skimmers and ran the hose directly down both. One skimmer (has always been the stronger of the two started pulling water. Not enough to keep the motor/pump primed.
We have an inground pool with probably approximately 24,000 gallons or more. It is 18 x 36-foot rectangle. We purchased the home 4 years ago. We only have experience with above ground pools. The pool company we usually use were unable to open the pool d/t a broken motor. We replaced the motor/pump on our hayward filter. Over the weekend we took the winter cover off and I have never seen so much algae in my life. We have had the electric checked bc it was tripping the breaker. Since last night it has not tripped the breaker. It will run with the garden hose in (it is not pulling any water from the 2 skimmers). With the hose one of our 3 jets was working barely. It kind of works on recirculate and backwash. We have very limited knowledge on the plumbing situation. It is at least 30 -35 years old. Help! I know I am all over the place and vague, but I am trying to get some info while my husband is working on the swamp! Thank you I will post pics.
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Thank you for your help! I am not tech savvy