New Member - Few Questions

[dposd]

First of all, hello everyone! A few months back, the wife and I decided to randomly purchase a 18'x48" Coleman Steel Series Above Ground Pool. I came across this forum and have read many of the articles concerning leveling the ground and ways to accomplish this (we dug down and then leveled using the 2x4 trick, we then used anti-fatigue mats). I also found out through the forums that a building permit might be required, thank you because it turns out that my town did require it. The pool has just been finished being assembled and filled this past Sunday 06/05/2022, and now I am on to my next learning moment. Chemistry and end of season. I have started digging into these a little bit, but apparently not enough. We purchased essentially a bag of each of the recommended products (alkalinity increaser, ph increaser, ph decreaser, etc.) but did not realize how much might be needed to get started out of the gate. We used city water to fill the pool (7700ish gallons from what I gather) and after testing the water for the 1st time, it showed I needed to add 14ish pounds of alkalinity which is what made me realize that we were way off on how much we initially bought. As of right now I am showing per the clorox test strip (with app use): 110 Hardness/0 Total Chlorine/0 Free Chlorine/7.2 PH/0 Total Alkalinity/0 Stabilizer. So now on to some of my specific questions.

1) Once I get the levels to where they should be, how much product should I maintain on hand for upkeep through the season (through Labor Day weekend I'm guessing)?
2) Am I correct in, if I use the 14lbs of alkalinity increaser to raise my alkalinity that I will probably also have to use a ph decreaser afterwards (assuming the ph will rise from 7.2 when using 14lbs of alkalinity increaser)?
3) I saw some "starter kits" available to purchase, are these worth it? Am I correct that they don't do anything for the alkalinity/ph balance?
4) I purchased a chlorine floater and 1" chlorine tabs to put inside. Do I just fill it up or should I limit how many tabs I put inside of it?
5) I live in Southern Maine, am I able to winterize a Coleman (type) Pool or will it be necessary to dissemble at the end of the season?
6) What is a good landscaping product to go around the pool? We were thinking about using rubber mulch and solar lights if it is safe to do so.

Thanks in advance for any help on the above questions.

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP!
1 - That varies. We need to know more about accurate testing and how you plan to chlorinate. Test strips are never reliable.
2 - Perhaps. But we never recommend using those products. Much also depends on your exact TA level and rate of increase of the pH.
3 - If your CYA level is already established, you probably shouldn't be using tabs due to them increasing stabilizer.
4 - We have a page established for closing an AGP.
5 - Rubber mulch is fine. Some people use round rock, gravel, etc or any number of products.

We can help more with the chemistry if you had a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit. That is the foundation of all home water testing. We can easily guide you with accurate results from one of those kits. Anything else could prove extremely frustrating and expensive wasting time and money of unneeded products.

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[chazas]

So, welcome, and congrats on your pool. You should know that we don’t recommend test strips or pool store testing, as they can be wildly inaccurate. We recommend a good drop-based kit like the TF100 or K2006, which you need to get actionable results. We do not recommend tablets because they contain CYA - a necessary chemical to retain your chlorine in sunlight, but one which also when too high will make your required chlorine levels so high as to be practically ineffective. We also recommend using a few simple chemicals when needed - as for pool specific chemicals, CYA (stabilizer) you’ll need, but with your pool probably not calcium (vinyl liner). Otherwise you can chlorinate with liquid chlorine/bleach, increase TA with baking soda, decrease pH with muriatic acid, etc.

I’d spend some time in the pool school pages rather than the forums. And once you get the testing nailed down, use the pool math app, which will give you good chemical addition amounts based on your target numbers.

 

[dposd]

Thanks for some quick responses! I believe I have found a TF100 kit (https://tftestkits.net/TF-100-Test-Kit-p4.html)? How long will that basic kit last me? Do I need any of the optional items?

 

[Texas Splash]

How long will that basic kit last me? Do I need any of the optional items?

The TF-100 (or TF-Pro) should last all season, perhaps a bit longer in your area. The magnetic speed stir (or Smart Stir) is a tool to help mixing that most of us absolutely love.

 

[chazas]

In my area mine lasted 2 seasons - you’ll probably get that out of it too since you’re so much further north, shorter season and all. They say it’s safer to replace chemical after a year but I had no issues last season, storing them inside the house.

 

[dposd]

2 Seasons, hmm. Might end up taking it down and storing it during the winter. We are also talking about getting the Coleman 22'x52" next year if we find out that we are "pool people" after this year.

I went ahead and ordered the TF100 kit that I previously linked based on the provided advice. I have also been reading the Pool School topics and checking out other forum areas. This has lead me to a few questions, mainly about quantity. I know the test results will determine actual quantities that I need as far as chemicals go, but while I wait for that to be delivered I would like to go grab some stuff now and have it on hand.

I would like to go purchase some bleach, borax (does it matter what kind?), baking soda (does it matter what kind?), muriatic acid, and maybe cyanuric acid to help kick off getting my levels set. Anyone have any suggestions of a good quantity amount of those to get started? How much do people usually keep on hand through out the season?

 

[Texas Splash]

You can bet you'll need liquid chlorine (or regular bleach) to maintain the proper FC level per the FC/CYA Levels. 2-3 gallons should be enough to get you started for the first few days. You will also need stabilizer (CYA) in new water if none was ever added. Last, muriatic acid, stored outside and away from anything else, to control your pH. I would just leave it there and not buy anything else until you receive your TF-100 and post a full set of results. We don't want you to waste time or money.

 

[dposd]

Update:
TF-100 kit and speed stir just came in. Watched some videos and just did my first tests.

FC - 2
CC - .5
pH - 7.2
CYA - 70
TA - 140
CH - 125

Also, I have a hayward skimmer coming to replace the Intex one I’m using. Little nervous to cut into the side but it looks to be a much better product.

Let me know what you think about the numbers above. They could be some due to me doing it for the first time.

 

[jeffchap]

Your CYA is high for a manually chlorinated pool, but not unmanageable. Just don't let it get any higher, so only use liquid chlorine from now on.

Your minimum FC level is 5, but I'd recommend keeping it around 10 and set 7 as the low point. Get some chlorine in there ASAP or you're going to get algae soon.

 

[dposd]

Your CYA is high for a manually chlorinated pool, but not unmanageable. Just don't let it get any higher, so only use liquid chlorine from now on.

Your minimum FC level is 5, but I'd recommend keeping it around 10 and set 7 as the low point. Get some chlorine in there ASAP or you're going to get algae soon.

I’ll go throw some bleach in there now. Thanks

 

[dposd]

Just checking to make sure I’m getting this.

FC - 1.5 (says to add about 72oz of bleach)
CC - 0
pH - 7.2
CYA - 50
TA - 130
CH - 200

It said I could throw about 42oz of borax but the coloring is more or less between 7.2-7.5. Anything I should be concerned about here?

Tomorrow I’m going to attempt to hook up my through wall skimmer. And I currently have a intex 2100 12inch sand filter. Any reason to add on a salt water attachment if it exists or upgrade to a filter that has it?

 

[IceShadow]

Your pH is fine. Pool Math is just a tool, and not a gospel. Your TA is 130 so when chlorinating with liquid chlorine/bleach, it will slowly pull up your pH as chlorine is pH neutral in action. Then you'll need to add acid to bring it down. No need to raise the pH if it's in the 7s.

 

[jeffchap]

Just checking to make sure I’m getting this.

FC - 1.5 (says to add about 72oz of bleach)
CC - 0
pH - 7.2
CYA - 50
TA - 130
CH - 200

It said I could throw about 42oz of borax but the coloring is more or less between 7.2-7.5. Anything I should be concerned about here?

Tomorrow I’m going to attempt to hook up my through wall skimmer. And I currently have a intex 2100 12inch sand filter. Any reason to add on a salt water attachment if it exists or upgrade to a filter that has it?

Forget about TA and pH. Anything between 7.2 and 7.8 is fine.

But you need to keep an eye on that FC. 1.5 is way too low for your CYA. Don't let it drop below 4 or you're going to end up with a green pool.

Good plan on getting the upgraded pump and the Hayward skimmer. That will do wonders to keep your pool clear of debris. But remember, filtration does not kill algae. Only chlorine does that.

An Intex SWG will make your life much easier. I always had one when I had an above ground pool. If you can find one, get the standalone unit and not the one that's built into the pump and filter. Those SWGs are only good for about 2 years before they need to be replaced and the pump will last much longer than that.

They make various sizes, get the biggest one you can find. That will reduce the amount of hours per day you need to run it to keep your pool chlorinated.