Hey guys. I am still pretty new with having a pool. Just trying to figure it all out. Set to get a new liner here in about a month. I have a vinyl liner saltwater pool 16x32 20k gallon. How many bags of salt am I going to need to put in the pool after the new liner is put in and the water has filled back up?
New Liner for Saltwater Pool
- Thread starter Jcsmith9
- Start date
The water is also already turning green. Should I just ignore the water and leave everything off since it will all need to be drained out when the new liner goes in anyway?
Hi Jc
If you're getting a new liner, then I would just leave the green water alone. Once the new liner is in, you will have to determine what your salt level needs to be. It looks like the salt level of the T-9 should be between 2700-3400ppm. The "Pool Math app" will give you numbers for everything you need to get the proper levels. I suggest you get the app. It is invaluable.
For your 20K pool, to get to about 3200ppm, you would need 535lbs of salt. That would be if the salt starting point of your water is 0ppm. Adding Chlorine, Muriatic acid, and other chemicals will raise salt levels by themselves. You should get a proper test kit(TF-100 is a great one), and also a salt test kit(K-1766). When the new water is in, do a salt test and then add the proper amount of salt. Do it gradually. If your pool calls for 540lbs, then add 8-9 40lb bags, brush it around, then wait a day and test salt level. Don't overshoot the level you want. If you do, then you'll have to drain a bit and add fresh water. Once you get your proper level, let it circulate for another day, then turn on the SWG. In the meantime, I would get some Liquid Chlorine to keep the water chlorinated while the salt is mixing. You should also use Liquid Chlorine to get to your intended Chlorine level, and let the SWG maintain that level. Don't rely on the SWG to bring the level up from 0.
One other note. Your T-9 is for pools up to 25000 gallons. The experts here recommend having a SWG twice your water volume, such as the T-15. Your T-9 will work for 20000 gallons, but it will need to be run much more. If you ever need to replace the T-9, I suggest upgrading to the T-15.
Good Luck!!
If you're getting a new liner, then I would just leave the green water alone. Once the new liner is in, you will have to determine what your salt level needs to be. It looks like the salt level of the T-9 should be between 2700-3400ppm. The "Pool Math app" will give you numbers for everything you need to get the proper levels. I suggest you get the app. It is invaluable.
For your 20K pool, to get to about 3200ppm, you would need 535lbs of salt. That would be if the salt starting point of your water is 0ppm. Adding Chlorine, Muriatic acid, and other chemicals will raise salt levels by themselves. You should get a proper test kit(TF-100 is a great one), and also a salt test kit(K-1766). When the new water is in, do a salt test and then add the proper amount of salt. Do it gradually. If your pool calls for 540lbs, then add 8-9 40lb bags, brush it around, then wait a day and test salt level. Don't overshoot the level you want. If you do, then you'll have to drain a bit and add fresh water. Once you get your proper level, let it circulate for another day, then turn on the SWG. In the meantime, I would get some Liquid Chlorine to keep the water chlorinated while the salt is mixing. You should also use Liquid Chlorine to get to your intended Chlorine level, and let the SWG maintain that level. Don't rely on the SWG to bring the level up from 0.
One other note. Your T-9 is for pools up to 25000 gallons. The experts here recommend having a SWG twice your water volume, such as the T-15. Your T-9 will work for 20000 gallons, but it will need to be run much more. If you ever need to replace the T-9, I suggest upgrading to the T-15.
Good Luck!!
Might be worth taking Anything removable like steps out so they don’t need cleaning of algae.
Thanks a bunch for the feedback. The SGW last year seemed to be off at times. Any ways of testing it out to ensure it still works like it’s supposed to?
- May 3, 2014
- 62,732
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Once you have the pool refilled and chemistry balanced, the SWCG can be tested. You can take the cell itself to many pool stores that can test it, however, there may be issues with the power center so be ware that if the cell tests fine, you can still do some diagnostics to check the other systems. But the system needs to be running to do those diagnostics.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,071
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Any kind of pool chlorine, normally called liquid shock in a gallon jug will work. Check Home Depot or Walmart (Pool Essentials). If you can't find those, regular laundry bleach is the same thing just not as strong. If you get bleach, be sure it is NOT the Clorox brand, and never add anything that says scented or splashless. You want regular/plain only.
My steps are currently yellow. Any tips on getting those white again before they put the new liner in?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,071
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Normally that would be based on the current CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. FC is balanced to the CYA for salt or non-salt pool to avoid algae. But something else in this thread catches my eye. You mention green water and yellow steps? It seems a bit chilly for algae, so I suspect iron. You on a well? I would take some Vitamin C tablets and rub them on those yellow steps. If the yellow brightens up, you have iron in the water. Let us know.
Is it ok if I ordered the K-1000 testing kit as a start? I also have ordered the salt kit as mentioned in this thread.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,071
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Afraid not. The K-1000 only tests very basic FC level and pH. You really need a K-2006C or TF-100. At the very least, go to tftestkits.net and get the FAS-DPD so you can do accurate FC testing.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,071
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Well, some local water supplies have elevated iron. I would still do that Vitamin C test on the steps. That's very important to know before we go down the algae road. Also tell us if you or anyone has added any other pool store products to the water other than just liquid chlorine, salt or muriatic acid. We are very concerned when someone adds pool products off the shelf that have the words "blue" in them (copper).
Ok. Another question. I believe you’re right about iron being in the water. Since I’m getting a new liner would you go ahead and just drain all the water down? The company told me they would call a day before to drain it. Sounds like it matters. Don’t want to do anything to hurt the pool if I don’t have to.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,071
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
If you have iron locally, it's always best to have the pool filled (full or at least partially) with non-iron water. Sometimes the local fire dept can help with that or a local water provider. Otherwise, you'll always be battling iron in some fashion (color changes, staining, etc).
No, nothing has been added to the water. The cover was just pulled back here about two weeks ago. Like I said that’s when it started turning color. Temps are warming up a bit here but I didn’t think enough for it to start turning colors. All that was added last was a bottle of algaecide when the pool was winterized back in november. Everything has basically sat here since November. I haven’t added anything and we have also had plenty of rain.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,071
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
If you didn't use a product with Polyquat 60 in it, the algaecide may have been copper based. That happens quite often. But the Vitamin C test will tell us if iron is a concern. You might also try to post a pic or two of the water so we can see.