New liner and just got my K2006c test kit

[Oldschoolpool]

Hi,

So I finally broke down and bought a taylor test kit after my old liner bleached out and ripped to bits over winter.

I unfortunately used the pool store to check my numbers, and I think they used teh incorrect pool size when recommending chemicals (odd - even after they measured and installed the liner).

After adding their chemicals I checked the numbers 4 days ago and go these:

PH 8.0
Alk 240
Calcium hardness 150
CYA 47
FC 0.5
CC 1

I realized I let my chloranator run empty so I threw in some tricloro tablets. I also added some calcium and PH decreaser I had in the shed.

Numbers today

PH 7.4 -7.5
ALK 200
CYA 34
FC 5.4
CC 0

Forgot to rerun the calcium hardness.

Do the numbers look okay or I need to actively lower the alkalinity (will the use of the tricloro tablets lower it)? How do I lower the FC?

This is my second year owning a pool, and while I have looked into the BBB method I am not sure I can keep it up (being honest) since the season is only 3 months to enjoy the summer..

 

[Texas Splash]

Congrats on the new liner and test kit. Unfortunately, just about everything else seems to be going in the wrong direction. If you haven't read the TFP Pool School page (link below), I'd definitely do that first to ensure you have a good understanding of the TFP chemistry philosophy. Going to the pool store for advice simply negates any progress of your own. Here are some examples:
- You have a vinyl pool, so you don't need to add calcium
- While you can use the chlorinator for a brief period, regular bleach is the primary source of free chlorine (FC). Your tabs will continue to increase CYA (stabilizer) to an unmanageable level.
- Your alkalinity is elevated, but not worth adjusting if the pH remains stable. If the pH shoots-up too fast over 2-4 days, then you may want to lower TA.
- FC lowers on its own through oxidation and sunlight. But you don't need it lower right now. It's in a good spot based on your current CYA. See the Chlorine/CYA Chart link below.

I would encourage you to review (and save) the vital links below in my signature - don't forget to update your signature as well. You'll find that those references are all you need.

 

[duraleigh]

What does your water look like?

 

[OTPirate]

Hey! I don't think you need to lower the FC. How did you get a CYA reading of 34? I thought the K2006C comparator for CYA was in increments of 10. The BBB method (now known as the Troublefree Pool Care method) is less expensive, less time consuming and a safer way to maintain your pool if you are willing to learn and follow it. You've already got the test kit, why not go ahead and try it? Please stop using pucks to chlorinate your pool with. They raise your CYA which can render your chlorine ineffective if it gets too high. Please read Pool School (button above).

 

[Razorhog]

What do you mean you don't think you can keep it up? TFP methods will be the easiest and most cost effective route, and you'll have plenty of help here.
As for your test results, they look ok but a couple of things stand out to me. TA and CYA don't tend to go down on their own. Did you replace some water between those two testing sessions? Also a CYA result as precise as 47 or 34 isn't really possible - are you sure you're doing the CYA test right? Don't be concerned with CH as it isn't vital for a vinyl liner.
Having a TA of 200+ will cause the pH to rise and make it harder to maintain, but you can handle it. Trichlor tablets will add FC and CYA to the water. Don't worry about lowering FC, it will fall on its own. What you should be concerned with is maintaining the FC level based on how much CYA you have. See this chart: Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

 

[Oldschoolpool]

I actually did add some water. I had vacuumed to waste and brought it too low on the skimmer and needed to add a couple inches of tap water. That might explain the change in Alk and CYA.

I have read that the Tricloral tablets will eventually oversaturate the CYA but over what period? My pool is only open 3 months and then we have to drop 2 -3 feet of water for winter closing. After I refill with tap water again I assume the CYA will be diluted again.

I was using the recommended numbers in the taylor kit but I will give the charts a look.

 

[Oldschoolpool]

What does your water look like?

Pool looks good. Slight cloud but it might be residual chemical granular stirring up.

- - - Updated - - -

Hey! I don't think you need to lower the FC. How did you get a CYA reading of 34? I thought the K2006C comparator for CYA was in increments of 10. The BBB method (now known as the Troublefree Pool Care method) is less expensive, less time consuming and a safer way to maintain your pool if you are willing to learn and follow it. You've already got the test kit, why not go ahead and try it? Please stop using pucks to chlorinate your pool with. They raise your CYA which can render your chlorine ineffective if it gets too high. Please read Pool School (button above).

ya I might be taking the cya wrong. When it was between two numbers I tried to guess the actual mamount. So if I am not supposed to do that the cya is between 30-40.

 

[OTPirate]

Go ahead and round your CYA reading up to 40 ppm. A healthy pool is not cloudy, and I'm concerned it may be algae instead of "Chemical granular stirring up". The issue with using the pucks is you don't really know how much CYA you are putting in your water. Can you perform an OCLT test (overnight chlorine loss test) Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT) and keep reading pool School