New from SE PA

[ResearchinStuff]

Hi Everyone,

My fiberglass pool and tanning ledge are finally installed and leak-free, so now I'm a brand new pool owner with a ~24k gallon inground pool, SWG, hayward equipment, and very little idea what I'm doing. Lots of questions on my end, and lots of reading to do, but first I've got to go clean the algae off my cartridges and get the pump running again.

Tim

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! Be sure to update your signature. See mine as an example. Include your test kit and if you are on a well. The link below is a great resource to help.

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Thanks Pat, I'm about to order my test kit now, but I put in the other info.

 

[Newdude]

Hey RS and Welcome !!!!!!

We got you now. Read up and fire off any questions and we'll fill in the blanks.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

So my tf-pro salt test kit arrived today, just did my first analysis, but there's no borate test in the kit. My builder told me to "add a box of borax every three weeks so your chemistry stays locked in," and I did put a box in about 2 weeks ago. What test do I need for borates?

On a potentially related note, I have a bottle of R-0630 that doesn't get used in any of the tests I have directions for. Is that for borates?

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Initial test numbers for those interested, I added 240# of salt and turned on the swg cell for the now.

 

[Newdude]

added 240# of salt and turned on the swg cell for the now.

How long ago ? It needs a full 24 hours to mix before the cell gets turned on. If a slug or highly concentrated mixture runs through the cell when on, it can ruin it.

CYA gets brought to 70. Undershoot and creep to the target as it can't come out quickly without draining.

For TA, use Muriatic acid to lower the Ph to 7.2 anytime it hits 8. Run the returns and any water features to raise Ph and hit it down again. Each cycle should lower the TA by 10. Once you are under 100 it will do its own thing.

CH is fine for now.

FC needs to be monitored and added daily until the SWG cab take over. This is job #1. Adding chlorone daily allows you a clear pool to have the time to tinker with everything else. Let this go and your efforts will be clearing a swamp, not tweaking your #s. Follow the FC/CYA Levels and raise the FC accordingly as your CYA increases.

PoolMath will guide you for any tweaks needed.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Thanks, I added the salt 4 hours ago, it's all dissolved in but I turned it off just now to avoid damage. I just added a gallon of muriatic acid, should get me to ~7.3 pH, and everything is running for max aeration, the spillover from the tracking ledge is about 10' long.

My only option to directly add chlorine is some bags of shock that came with the pool, I added 2# Sunday and 1# Monday, unfortunately the water was so bad then I didn't notice a couple piles i missed brushing in on the bottomand bleached the fiberglass in a few spots. Big time learning curve here, but at least the visible algae is gone off the walls.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Also, going to add 5# of cya right now, sock in the skimmer, right?

 

[Newdude]

Or hang it in front of a return, a foot out so it doesn't touch the wall. If you do the skimmer method, squeeze it into the pool, not the skimmer. No need to send acid into your equipment.