New fiberglass pool owner

[Peregrine133]

Sorry for first post I have some questions however it appears this is the only area that will allow me to post. Had a Tallman 14x34 fiberglass pool installed Sept 2017. It's 13,600 gallons. I have a SWG with Pentair 4000 control panel, variable speed pumps and sand filter. Trying to get it ready to swim in. I'm in the middle Georgia area so I didn't cover it during the winter. I've taken water samples to local hardware store in the past and added chemicals and salt as their printout suggested. At one point was told my cya was too high and should drain 60% of water. That wasn't happing. Took another sample to local pool store was told cya was fine (don't have results handy). Purchased a Taylor 2006 SALT test kit and started experimenting. When doing cya test sample doesn't turn cloudy and black dot doesn't disappear. My last samples(they performed three tests on same water sample) to hardware store was as follows:

Test #1:
FC 6.2
TC Over 18.3
CC: 12.1
pH: 8.6
Hardness: Over 1603
Alkalinity: over 406
cya: 149

Test #2:
FC: 6.5
TC: over 18.3
CC: 11.9
pH: 8.4
Hardness: over 1242
Alkalinty: over 304
cya: 131

Test # 3
FC: 0.3
TC: over 17.7
CC: 17.4
pH: 7.2
Hardness: 0
Alkalinty: 0
cya: 1

All three of these test were completed back to back using same water sample within 15 minutes. They used a electronic device with a round plastic container to put water in.

Went to pool store next day with new fresh sample.
Results:

FC: 2.15
TC: 2.39
CC: 0.24
pH: 8
TA: 85
CH: 85
CYA: 2

With my new Taylor 2006 SALT test kit I got the following:

FC: 2.2
CC: .06
pH: 7.4
TA: 80
CH: 180
Salt: 3400
Tried three times (different days) to obtain cya with Taylor kit however water sample will not turn cloudy therefor black dot doesn't disappear. It appears the hardware store tests can't be trusted. Now must I assume the cya is low and if so how do I raise it slowly and safely. .The pool is located in a full sun area.

Great sight, and I'm learning a lot by searching but still just a newbie. Thanks in advance for suggestions.

 

[Kiss4aFrog]

Welcome to TFP Peregrine133

Can you please add your pools info to your signature as outlined here - - > Pool School - Getting Started

That CC reading looks to bounce around. You might need to do an over night chlorine loss test (OCLT) as you might be on the road to having an algae bloom in the near future if that CC number is climbing.
OCLT - - > Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)


Edit: sorry was thinking backwards about the CYA test.
.

 

[Texas Splash]

Hello fellow FG pool owner and welcome to TFP! Let's make this quick & easy for you ..... all those other tests .... ignore them. You have a K-2006 kit now, that's all that matters. YOUR tests are all we care to accept. I suspect that's the very reason your went through all of this .... consistency and accuracy. You will always do better.

Having said that, let's get right down to it (your results):
- If the dot never disappeared, it's way too low - especially for a SWG pool. But for now do this ... add enough stabilizer to increase the CYA by about 20-30 ppm. Use the Poolmath calculator (link below) and sock method to let the stabilizer dissolve. Once they dissolve, test the CYA again in a day or two and see what you get. Here are my go-to notes:

CYA Testing:
Proper lighting is critical for the CYA test, so you want to test for CYA outside on a bright sunny day. Taylor recommends standing outside with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body. Use the mixing bottle to combine/gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Then, while holding the skinny tube with the black dot at waist level, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. If it helps, pour a little, look away, then look back and pour some more. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. After the first test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate the CYA reading.

Keep your FC at about 3 ppm for the next 24 hrs or so. When you test the CYA again, it should be more cloudy and the CYA should've increased. If it did, go the Chlorine/CYA Chart (link below) and increase the FC accordingly. It's okay to use regular bleach to augment your SWG for now until everything gets adjusted. Once we know you feel confident with the stabilizer additions and CYA testing, THEN we can focus on increasing the CYA to the SWG recommended minimum of 70. Right now though, since this is a bit new to you, I don't want you to overshoot the CYA. Make sense?

All your other numbers look really good, so keep up the good work. Let us know if you have any other questions. nice to have you with us.

 

[duraleigh]

Welcome to the forum

1. Stay out of the pool store....no good will come from that

2. Trust your own testing....assume you have zero CYA

3. Using PoolMath (have you found it at the top of the page?) put enough CYA in your pool to get to 30 ppm. Don't test for it just yet.

4. Tell us what your water looks like? Is your filter clean and all equipment running OK? What is your psi?

 

[Peregrine133]

Water is clear. Can see bottom fine. Filter should be clean as it was installed in September and I have backwashed and rinsed numerous times. The psi is at 5. Also, the SWG is set at 60%. To increase cya I need to add what? I'm assuming there is a specific cya additive?

- - - Updated - - -

To increase FC can I add 10.5% choline as I have two jugs left over from my pool store visit I didn't use after their first test

 

[woodyp]

CYA is also known as stabilizer or conditioner. Use the granular form that comes in either 3 or 4 lb. jugs. Available at Walmart.

 

[Texas Splash]

Maybe this will help you:

Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.

 

[Kiss4aFrog]

CYA can be found at most of the big box stores like Home Depot and such, Walmart ...
As mentioned above, best way to add it is in a sock in front of a return jet.

 

[Peregrine133]

Added 5 lbs of CCH and 12 oz of 10% bleach. Ran pump 24 hrs and just retested after getting home from work. Yes have to work to ay for this pool! The new test:
CFC: 4.8
CC: 0.4
pH- 7.2
TA: 80
CH: 200
CYA: 70
Salt: 3400

Looks like CH is still a bit low. Should I wait a day or two to see if it changes before adding more calcium?

 

[Texas Splash]

I'd wait on the calcium. You're very close, and typically our FB pools do fine when CH is a little low as there's no calcium in the shell to etch. You might make up the difference from evaporation refills this summer if your fill water is hard. Looing good though overall.