New convert to BBB (questions and confirmations)

[Richard320]

Richard: If I need to keep my FC at 12-14 as Vet suggested, how can I ever test anything?

Oops, you're right. Your FC is just high, but not shock level. I didn't have any problem with pH testing when I had ultrahigh CYA and FC to match. Seems like the reactive chlorine is all bound up to the CYA.

But I still wouldn't worry too much about it; test pH once a day and deal with it then. Otherwise it will be like a yo-yo.

 

[UnderWaterVanya]

Richard: If I need to keep my FC at 12-14 as Vet suggested, how can I ever test anything? I know the real answer is get my CYA down to a normal level. But I can't do that right now. Tomorrow I have to got out of town for a week and I am trying to get the pool manageable for my wife while I'm gone.

Richard? I wonder if we could use distilled water and dillute 1:1 getting the FC down below 10 when we need to test and can't let the FC fall naturally. In theory would that work or is the fact that the water is pH 7.0 going to negatively impact the accuracy of the tests?

 

[ecowolf]

OK. So, if I am doing a PH test at these high levels, should I use any chlorine neutralizer? I know the Taylor kit says not to, but at these high levels I'm wondering if I should.

 

[linen]

Best thing (as far as I know) you can do is let your pool drop briefly down below 10 ppm FC, measure ph, adjust ph, wait 1/2 hour, measure ph again, and adjust if necessary, then bring the pool back up higher in FC.

 

[ecowolf]

Good idea, Linen. Since I have to leave tomorrow, I think I will just keep my FC at 14, get my PH steady at 7.5 (based on current test), tell my wife to add 40 oz of bleach each day while I'm gone, and not worry about PH or TA until I get back and can fix this #$%^ CYA!

 

[linen]

Just to be clear, stop adjusting ph while above 10 ppm FC :!:
Most likely, your ph will be low when/if you let it drop below 10 ppm.

 

[ecowolf]

OK. I will leave it alone. Thanks.