Nervous about servicing my AquaPure PLC1400

[Mark-in-NC]

I have a Jandy AquaPure PLC1400 which is going on it's 3rd season (pool completed in Summer of 2022). It has been running pretty much continuously, 14 hours per day for the last two years (11 hours x 100%, 3 hours x 10% [spa]). In the winter I believe that my system automatically stops the SWG from producing chlorine when the temp fall to a certain level.

I would like to remove my Salt Cell, inspect it for scaling, and then acid wash it (if needed). I would also like to lightly clean the salt sensor with a soft sponge or cloth (as the Jandy manual recommends).

When I first started to twist off the connector of the salt cell, I found it to be extremely tight. I first tried to twist it off with my hand but it was too tight. I then tried to gently unscrew it with a 16-inch channel lock wrench and still found it very tight. When I started to unscrew it, the entire length of pipe started to rotate. That made me very nervous, so I stopped trying to loosen it, and put the project on hold. I am sure I can unscrew the salt cell connector, but I'm worried that I'm going to damage something. Am I being too cautious?

My SWG seems to be working well generating chlorine, and I am not getting any error messages. However, at the beginning of last Summer I was getting the 120 and 121 error codes which I couldn't fix, so I called a pool guy. He removed the SWG, inspected it, and we both saw that it was caked with white deposits. He descaled it with muriatic acid, put it back in the system, and the panel was no longer displaying the error code.

Also, do you think I will need to replace the 3 O-Ring seals after I service the SWG? If so, I should probably order them before starting the project.

Another issue I have is that the salinity reading on my AquaPure panel is consistently 400-500 PPM higher than what I test with my Taylor Test kit. That is why I'm thinking of lightly cleaning the salt sensor to see if that has any effect reading. Or do you think I should simply re-calibrate the salt sensor on the panel so that it agrees with the Taylor Test kit?

Lastly, someone here recommded against using muriatic acid to descale, as it could degrade the functionality and/or lifespan of my SWG. He suggested using a popsicle stick. Would you agree? Thanks in advance

 

[Mdragger88]

Its certainly best to use the least aggressive methods first (popsicle stick/zip tie) before resorting to acid (diluted vinegar or diluted muriatic acid)
Every time you use acid to clean the cell it removes some of the coating that is responsible for chlorine production thus shortening its life.

Not sure about the orings or the fact its hard to remove.
Let’s ask @PoolGate or @HermanTX - they are jandy guys.

 

[generessler]

Hi neighbor!

When I first started to twist off the connector of the salt cell, I found it to be extremely tight. I first tried to twist it off with my hand but it was too tight. I then tried to gently unscrew it with a 16-inch channel lock wrench and still found it very tight. When I started to unscrew it, the entire length of pipe started to rotate. That made me very nervous, so I stopped trying to loosen it, and put the project on hold. I am sure I can unscrew the salt cell connector, but I'm worried that I'm going to damage something. Am I being too cautious?

Your pool guy probably made it too tight. You could see if he's willing to come fix his mistake gratis. If not, first be 100% sure you're turning CCW while looking at the end of the cell. Doing the limbo on an equipment pad, it's not hard to get turned around. If the pipe is twisting, then, yes, stop turning. You'll need something like a strap wrench or second pliers to hold the union firm while you twist the nut. Gentle - as you said - is the operative word when squeezing with a channel lock.

When reassembling, make hand tight and then give just a tiny additional tug with a wrench mainly to make sure it's not stuck before snug.

My SWG seems to be working well generating chlorine, and I am not getting any error messages. However, at the beginning of last Summer I was getting the 120 and 121 error codes which I couldn't fix, so I called a pool guy. He removed the SWG, inspected it, and we both saw that it was caked with white deposits. He descaled it with muriatic acid, put it back in the system, and the panel was no longer displaying the error code.

Well-maintained water chemistry results in little or no scale. Exception is if your fill water is very hard (high calcium). In that case, fighting scale is just that. If you post test results here, folks can give advice.

Is it worth taking things apart if you're getting chlorine? Your call. Eventually you'll need to get the cell out. Getting it loose when you've allowed time to fix a problem if one occurs may be better than doing it when some random future cell issue crops up.

Also, do you think I will need to replace the 3 O-Ring seals after I service the SWG? If so, I should probably order them before starting the project.

Always good to have an extra set, but the old ones will almost certainly work fine. Remove, wipe down, add good silicone lube, and reassemble. No leak is all you need. Otoh your pool guy may have over-tightened to force a marginal ring to seal.

Another issue I have is that the salinity reading on my AquaPure panel is consistently 400-500 PPM higher than what I test with my Taylor Test kit. That is why I'm thinking of lightly cleaning the salt sensor to see if that has any effect reading. Or do you think I should simply re-calibrate the salt sensor on the panel so that it agrees with the Taylor Test kit?

A dirty sensor would normally result in a low reading. So clean it by all means, but recalibration will probably be needed even so. Otoh all these sensors are inaccurate. It's fine to ignore the high reading unless it's so high it causes the cell to turn off. If you keep salt at the recommended (real according to Taylor) 3000 to 3200, the inaccuracy you're mentioning can be ignored.

Lastly, someone here recommded against using muriatic acid to descale, as it could degrade the functionality and/or lifespan of my SWG. He suggested using a popsicle stick. Would you agree? Thanks in advance

Yes... TFP recommended: Poking with stick or a zip tie or similar is most preferred. Then vinegar. Finally muriatic acid only if all else fails. It eats the exotic coating on the cell plates that's needed to make chlorine.

 

[newdude]

I often have to steady my cell with one hand while loosening with the other or the whole thing spins like you saw. Go gentle with those pliers, they have a ton of torque and you can easily squeeze too hard.

 

[Mark-in-NC]

Its certainly best to use the least aggressive methods first (popsicle stick/zip tie) before resorting to acid (diluted vinegar or diluted muriatic acid)
Every time you use acid to clean the cell it removes some of the coating that is responsible for chlorine production thus shortening its life.

Not sure about the orings or the fact its hard to remove.
Let’s ask @PoolGate or @HermanTX - they are jandy guys.

Thanks. If I decide to go ahead and service my SWG I will start with the least aggressive method of descaling and then move to more aggressive - if needed.

BTW, what is the "zip tie" method of descaling? I get popsicle, but zip tie? Can someone elaborate? thanks

 

[Mark-in-NC]

Hi neighbor!

Your pool guy probably made it too tight. You could see if he's willing to come fix his mistake gratis. If not, first be 100% sure you're turning CCW while looking at the end of the cell. Doing the limbo on an equipment pad, it's not hard to get turned around. If the pipe is twisting, then, yes, stop turning. You'll need something like a strap wrench or second pliers to hold the union firm while you twist the nut. Gentle - as you said - is the operative word when squeezing with a channel lock.

I tried contacting this pool guy but he hasn't responded. He was a pretty good guy, but I don't think he wants anything to do with salt water systems. I'm definitely turning CCW (lefty-loosey, righty-tighty) ;-)

I have a second channel lock, so I'll try to gently break the seal.

When reassembling, make hand tight and then give just a tiny additional tug with a wrench mainly to make sure it's not stuck before snug.

Well-maintained water chemistry results in little or no scale. Exception is if your fill water is very hard (high calcium). In that case, fighting scale is just that. If you post test results here, folks can give advice.

My calcium hardness has actually been pretty low. However, last season when the pool guy opened my SWG it was a big white chunk of calcium, which is why I would like to open it up and inspect it.

Is it worth taking things apart if you're getting chlorine? Your call. Eventually you'll need to get the cell out. Getting it loose when you've allowed time to fix a problem if one occurs may be better than doing it when some random future cell issue crops up.

Although I suspect there is little if any scaling since my SWG seems to be producing chlorine, I would like to do it so I know I can do it if a problem pops up in the future.

Always good to have an extra set, but the old ones will almost certainly work fine. Remove, wipe down, add good silicone lube, and reassemble. No leak is all you need. Otoh your pool guy may have over-tightened to force a marginal ring to seal.

Any suggestions re: where to buy some rings? I'm going to buy some so I always have them on hand.

Also, what lubricant do you recommend?

A dirty sensor would normally result in a low reading. So clean it by all means, but recalibration will probably be needed even so. Otoh all these sensors are inaccurate. It's fine to ignore the high reading unless it's so high it causes the cell to turn off. If you keep salt at the recommended (real according to Taylor) 3000 to 3200, the inaccuracy you're mentioning can be ignored.

The panel is consistently 400-500 PPM higher than my Taylor Test Kit - almost no variation. I will re-calibrate after servicing the SWG and salt sensor.

Yes... TFP recommended: Poking with stick or a zip tie or similar is most preferred. Then vinegar. Finally muriatic acid only if all else fails. It eats the exotic coating on the cell plates that's needed to make chlorine.

 

[Mark-in-NC]

BTW, my latest test results are:

FAC: 3.9
PH: 7.9
TA: 75
CYA: 55 (probably higher since I just added 7lbs, but I'm out of CYA Reagent - ordered)
CH: 290
Salt: 3500
CSI: -0.01

I should have lead with this...

 

[newdude]

I'm definitely turning CCW (lefty-loosey, righty-tighty) ;-)

Make sure you're facing the right direction. On the cell with 2 unions one is CW and the other CCW if you don't literally rotate your body 180 degrees. If you do then they're both CCW. (When standing with the cell directly in front of you)

BTW, what is the "zip tie" method of descaling? I get popsicle, but zip tie? Can someone elaborate? thanks

Same as the popsicle stick, but thinner. Scrape it up in there without worrying about scratching the plates. Anything non metallic works. Somebody used a drain hair clog thingie earlier this year with the same principle.

Any suggestions re: where to buy some rings?

I like the poolstore for this because you can get them today, the right 'thems', and have next to no downtime. I don't care they're $3 more when I need them today. Or go find out which ones at the poolstore and Amazon your own.

 

[Mark-in-NC]

Make sure you're facing the right direction. On the cell with 2 unions one is CW and the other CCW if you don't literally rotate your body 180 degrees. If you do then they're both CCW. (When standing with the cell directly in front of you)

I'm way ahead of you...

 

[newdude]

It fooled m.......... um........ my um........ my neighbor the first time. Yeah yeah. That's it. My neighbor. Anywho he was all flustered out there going at pool equipment for the first time and lost sight of the basics for a minute.

 

[generessler]

BTW, what is the "zip tie" method of descaling? I get popsicle, but zip tie? Can someone elaborate? thanks

A big, long zip tie is just another soft-ish skinny thing that can be used to poke at flakes. Same as Popsicle stick. The plates are quite close together. A zip tie is a bit thinner. It works well for me when poking out seeds, which were a plague until I figured out why the filter was passing them.

 

[SJPoe]

I generally don't like channel-locks for plastic pipes - they tend to be too narrow, and it's easy to just put too much pressure on, especially on PVC pipe.
I have a couple of big 'pipe wrenches' - the slight taper of the jaws grips up the pipe or collar vey well, and the long handle allows you to apply pressure without additional squeezing.



You can pick up cheap ones at somewhere like Ace or Harbor Freight for $10-12...for occasional 'help' getting things undone, they'll work just fine.

 

[NCMike]

I use this style oil filter wrench on all my Jandy unions. Only to break them loose or slightly tighten if there is a drip after hand tight. The teeth fit neatly between the raised gripped areas of the union nuts and don't really scar it up like channel locks.

Steelman 3 in. Large Oil Filter Wrench 06115 - The Home Depot

STEELMAN 06115 12-Inch Long Large Oil Filter Pliers are designed to operate in tight spaces where band-style wrenches can't. Composed of chrome vanadium steel, these pliers are sure to withstand even the toughest jobsite applications. Three-position slip joints allow this tool to grasp oil...

www.homedepot.com

can be found at almost any autoparts store or HD, Lowes, WalMart.