Need to replace Skimmer on Inground Pool

[richmgreen]

My skimmer has cracks from the cement patio block it was installed in. Over 12 years, the 3'x4' poured cement block has settled along with all the poured block around the pool. The skimmer has no door anymore becuase there was so much putty added to the cracks over the years. It does not leak at this point, but I am debating if I should get it changed. The pool repair house says they will cut the cement block, dig down, replace the skimmer and repour in the cutout area and feather it to the existing patio blocks. They said it's a 6 hour job for $1,200. I can ignore it until I have an issue or bite the bullet now.

Does that price sound reasonable?
Any issue not having the skimmer door in use (prob not acting as a skimmer I would guess)

Not sure which way to go. $1,200 sounds high. Please Help!

 

[jblizzle]

When we moved into the house we are in now, the pool was in rough shape. There was not weir on the skimmer and when I tired to add one it would stick ... finally realize the sides of the skimmer were bowed in and had very fine cracks in it. When we decided to have the pool re-coated and an auto fill added, I asked the guy doing the auto fill about the skimmer and while it may not have been leaking yet, he suggested we replace it. Since we were also going to have the deck re-coated, this seemed like the time to do it before it was a leaking problem.

He cut a section of the patio out, removed the old skimmer and installed the new one, and put concrete back to merge with the existing patio. Then when the re-coat/texture was done we can not even see where the cut was made.

I just checked my notes and found that I paid $1200 for the skimmer replacement ... so you may be in the ball park (or we both got high bids ... although he was a good deal on the auto-fill compared to others).

One thing I wish I would have thought of at the time. When the skimmer was dug up, I wish I would tried to run the main drain back to the pad instead of back to the bottom of the skimmer like the old setup. This would have allowed better flow control to the pump and not left me limited to the single 1.5" suction line. Something to consider if you have the option.

 

[Drockfresh]

One thing I wish I would have thought of at the time. When the skimmer was dug up, I wish I would tried to run the main drain back to the pad instead of back to the bottom of the skimmer like the old setup. This would have allowed better flow control to the pump and not left me limited to the single 1.5" suction line. Something to consider if you have the option.

hey jblizzle - I am about to have a skimmer dug up and replaced in my gunite pool - can you please clarify what you would have done differently when connecting your skimmer - I don't exactly understand what you wrote above.

thanks, david

 

[sefrlw]

His main drain pipe is connected to the skimmer or to a T below the skimmer. He should have cut the line and ran new one to the equipment pad. He could then have a 3 way valve installed to choose or limit flow from one or the other.

 

[jblizzle]

My pool has the single main floor drain plumbed to one hole in my single skimmer. The other hole in the skimmer is plumbed to the pad ... basically directly to the pump. There is a diverter in the skimmer to adjust whether the flow pulls from the skimmer or floor.

When I had the deck cut and skimmer replaced, I should have had them run a new line from the floor pipe to the equipment pad instead of connecting it back to the skimmer and just capped the second hole in the skimmer (or I suppose you could add a equalizer line, but that would require adding a hole in the pool). Then either had a 3-way valve or two 2-way valves in front of the pump to select where the flow came from.

Had I done that I would have had two 1.5" pipes from the pump to the pool for suction. This would reduce the head loss and increase the water flow for the same pump. Think about drinking something through 2 straws compared to 1 straw ... it is easier.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

 

[Blowout]

i'm considering the same thing...running separate lines to the pad for the skimmer and drain as part of our replumb. Since everything will be dug up, it will cost about $300 more I was told.

Below are options to connecting the skimmer.
http://www.poolplaza.com/pool-school/plumbing_valves_intakes_skimmers_float.shtml

http://www.poolplaza.com/pool-school/plumbing_valves_intakes_skimmers_setup1.shtml

http://www.poolplaza.com/pool-school/plumbing_valves_intakes_skimmers_setup2.shtml

 

[jblizzle]

I think it is worth it ... setup2 certainly has advantages as well if possible.

Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone

 

[Isaac-1]

I personally would wait for there to be a problem, if you don't have problem with excessive stuff floating on the surface of your pool I would not worry about the gate (door).

 

[Blowout]

After my gate broke I bought another and ground the ends down with a wheel grinder until it would move freely. When it jambed up again I cut it down some more. It seems to be made out of closed cell foam of some sort and doesn't take on water after cutting into it. It could buy you some time until you figure out what you want to do....