Need some help with yellow/mustard algae

[300winmag]

Correct; i had not run those fountains during the slam. Lesson learned. They are now on a timer to run for an hour in the morning and an hour in the afternoon.

I have not tried to remove the main drain covers (i have four; two for main pump and two for fountain pump) as i was told going in at slam levels was not allowed.

As noted somewhere above, i do have a big light that has been removed and the niche cleaned out.

Thanks

 

[Texas Splash]

as i was told going in at slam levels was not allowed.

The concern there is to not get a body part sucked into the drain and pinned under water. Doubtful with today's dual line mandates, but to be totally safe, you can adjust all pump suction to the skimmers while you inspect the drain areas.

 

[300winmag]

As a follow up to stagnant water, I’ve been running the spa blower too, but would it help any to pour some bleach into that line at the blower? Edit; the spa spillover is obviously off in this picture, but its on a timer and comes on shortly.

So far today i’ve lost 1ppm FC between 6:40am and 10:15am with no bleach adds. CC was 0.5 at 10:15. Fountains turned on at 10.
Still have dusty stir up when I brush.

 

[300winmag]

Ran the bowl fountains for an hour and lost 6.5ppm FC. Looks like that circuit needs more run time, so switching it to 24/7

 

[300winmag]

Day 9 of SLAM and 36gal of bleach later, I am still losing FC. Still have dusty debris when I brush.
Has anyone experienced such a long slam? I am at the point of giving up

 

[Texas Splash]

It's not uncommon for a SLAM to go 9 days or more, but your water looks nice, so let's make sure there's not another issue.
1 - Can you confirm your current FC 7 CYA? Poolmath logs are not linked to TFP.
2 - When was the last time you did an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test?
3 - Have you been able to inspect the drain areas yet?
4 - Are you testing FC by using the "10 ML water sample with one generous scoop of powder? Number of drops (to clear) divided in half?"

What is that brick enclosure behind the spa?

 

[300winmag]

1) FC was measured 30min ago; 24ppm. I will measure CYA shortly.
EDIT. CYA is 40. I must have fat fingered my initial data entry into my spreadsheet and hit 7 instead of 4. Some wasted chlorine i guess
2) tried an OCLT last night. Of course it rained and blew some Crud into the pool. With that said it went from 22.5ppm at 8:30pm to 19.5ppm at 6:50am
3) no. Just got a snorkel mask and will jump in shortly.
4) 10mL water w two scoops. Number of drops divided by two to yield ppm.

The brick thing is a fireplace.

 

[300winmag]

covers removed

 

[PoolStored]

covers removed

scrub up those areas!

 

[300winmag]

Scrubbed w plastic scrub brush. Some dust came up but not much. Pebble appears to be stained.
One pipe looks much darker inside than the other three, but not sure what to do about it. Stuck a running garden hose down it and nothing stirred up.


Also, before we lived here (2013ish) neighbors said this pool was a literal swamp during a nasty divorce. So maybe the staining is at least partially from that.

 

[PoolStored]

Likely organic stains. Since they are under cover, I wouldn't worry about them. Leave covers off and continue to scrub while slamming.

 

[Texas Splash]

10mL water w two scoops. Number of drops divided by two to yield ppm.

Just to be safe, I wanted to confirm our communication is on the same page

Use a 10 ML water sample with ONE generous scoop of powder. (The 2-scoops is a Taylor thing for the 25 ml sample size). Count drops until clear and divide in half. Example: 48 drops to clear = an FC of 24.

Good to see those drain covers off.

 

[300winmag]

1 big scoop, FC is 20ppm. 0.0CC

 

[300winmag]

FC now 16.5ppm. Will maintain here per my CYA level unless y’all think it should be higher.

 

[reggiehammond]

To an earlier question you had that might not have been answered - it's normal to see dead algae, the dust at bottom of pool, during SLAM. That just confirms it's working and your filter will pick it up in normal operation.

There's no hurt to turning your SWCG on to 100% to help save on chlorine cost and extend time between doses, in my opinion. The only time you need it off is when you want to do the OCLT to confirm if you still have FC reduction or not.

Also - I assume the Polaris is running normal schedule? So SLAM water is cycling through that system as well?

 

[300winmag]

Yes, polaris is running. Actually, more than its normal schedule.

Good idea on the SWG. Thanks!

And also good to know about the dust / debris.

Many thanks

 

[300winmag]

SWG on super-chlorinate is holding FC level at 17.5/18ppm.

 

[reggiehammond]

When you're ready to consider the OCLT - I'd cut it off an hour or so before, just to be certain your start point for the OCLT is good.

 

[300winmag]

To be ready to try an OCLT I would need to see FC increase during the day, correct? I would think at max output the SWG would make more FC than is lost to sunlight. Or am I off base?

 

[PoolStored]

To be ready to try an OCLT I would need to see FC increase during the day, correct? I would think at max output the SWG would make more FC than is lost to sunlight. Or am I off base?

No. FC is consumed by UV. You really don't know how much is being consumed and created.

Your FC just needs to be above 3 for OCLT.

Turn the cell off at least an hour before your first test AFTER sunset. Make sure you run pump at least 30 minutes before your second test BEFORE sunrise. Ensure SWCG is off all night.