Need some advice

Jun 6, 2017
10
Toledo, OH
After lurking here for awhile and reading decided to post to try and get some help.

We bought a intex 22 foot by 48in deep round metal frame pool, it has a sand filter, and also we bought a frogger chemical system for it for ease. Ohh how that turned out to be far from the truth!

This is our third season and we were having problems at the end of last season where it seemed like the frogger was not releasing chlorine well yet again 2 weeks into this season the frogger was not releasing any chlorine even on the setting of 10, so i completely took the frogger system out of the loop.

My question is when using the BBB method and or TFPC method, Do I start with Bleach, Borax or Baking Soda, so basically should I adjust FC, pH, or TA first. My pool is current 0.5 FC, 7.2 pH and around 40 TA.

Thank you in advance

Cody
 
Welcome to TFP Damion.

The first step is to get a quality test kit. We recommend you get one of two, both of which are comprised of Taylor chemicals: Taylor K2006C or the TF100. A SpeedStir magnetic stirrer is also recommend.

It sounds like your water quality has suffered? How does it look now? If it's cloudy or green, you'll want to get a kit and perform a SLAM: Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
 
Cody,

I started out with a similar size pool and some initial issues with maintaining water chemistry. One of the main reasons was that I was not paying attention to the CYA levels. Make sure you know what these levels are. Then use the PoolMath located on this site to help you with the correct levels of Bleach
 
Actually at the end of last season we completely drained the pool and started fresh this year, we power washed the inside of the pool with water and a little dawn for the really stained areas! So its neither cloudy or green at this moment!
 
When your kit arrives, run a complete set of tests and post results like this:

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

When we get a little more information we'll know how to guide you on where/how to start. If your CYA levels are off the charts for example, you'll need to drain some water. There's little point in adding chemicals to water that you're about to drain..

If you think the CYA is reasonable and you have clear water now, then you'd want to start by adding chlorine in an amount calculated using this tool: https://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html

That's a big IF though...

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Actually at the end of last season we completely drained the pool and started fresh this year, we power washed the inside of the pool with water and a little dawn for the really stained areas! So its neither cloudy or green at this moment!

Ah - good to hear! How did you obtain those test results?

- - - Updated - - -

Please also take a moment to fill out your signature to include your pool details. Include pump and filter model if you can.
 
I currently have some test strips as well as OTO drop testing kit let me go test and see what it currently comes up as be back shortly

Best place to order one of those test kits?

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According to the testing strips I currently have

TH - 0
FC - 1
pH - 7.0
TA - 40
CYA - 30-50

That is all my current test strips tell me
 
I got my TF100 from TFTestkits.net Both kits are also available on Amazon. Consider the SpeedStir too. There are plenty of people who haven't (yet) justified buying one, but I haven't seen anyone regret it once they have it.

On your way out to the pool, look for patio furniture that's rocking on uneven pavers, then jam all of your test strips under the shortest leg as a remedy. (or throw them out, whichever you prefer) :D If you post results from test strips, thousands of kind, quick, smart, helpful and experienced TFP'ers will fly into a unbelievable rage and possibly even threaten physical harm against you and your family. Ok, that's an exaggeration, but don't do it!
 
If we treat those numbers as reliable, we'd reference this chart to determine the range and minimum of FC according to CYA: Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

If we split CYA down the middle and call it 40, you'd want to keep FC between 5-7 and never below 3.

The numbers for TA and pH are low. I recommend conservative action until your kit arrives though. (and the use of Borates warrants research and discussion first)
 

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