Need salt testing advice, want to try something new

FlapjackMcCoy

Bronze Supporter
Aug 13, 2019
134
North Carolina
Hello,

Past few years I have been using salt test strips. I prefer to test often but not many come in the jar and they aren't cheap so I am looking at alternatives. I see TF Test Kits now has two alternatives, the salt test kit and test meter. How many tests can I get out of the test kit before I need to get more reagent? And for the meter, does anyone have any feedback on that? I searched the forums and there doesn't seem to be much to go on other than the instructions are limited. Regarding calibration, it is just a matter of comparing it to a test strip and dialing it in once every few years?

Thanks!
 
It should last you an entire season and into the next before needing to replace due to age. You really don’t need to test salt very frequently unless you are constantly adding water due to splash out or some sort of leak. Water evaporation won’t lower the salt content.
 
It should last you an entire season and into the next before needing to replace due to age. You really don’t need to test salt very frequently unless you are constantly adding water due to splash out or some sort of leak. Water evaporation won’t lower the salt content.
Unfortunately they messed up the deck grading so if I get decent rain I end up having to let out a ton of water. Because of this I test salt and CH fairly often.
 
I see TF Test Kits now has two alternatives, the salt test kit and test meter.
Get both.

Your AquaPure should give you a reading.

Also get one of these.

 
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I've found the AquaPure reading to be wildly inaccurate.
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Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the front board.

Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp.

While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit.

The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.

While still holding the two front board test buttons press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’).

It should read 75° F or 24° C.

Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the front cover of the unit.

The LCD should read 91° F or 33° C .

If the readings are correct then the front board is O.K. and the problem is with the flow sensor.

On the other hand if the readings are different then it indicates that there is a problem with the front board.

When the testing and repair is complete reconnect the flow sensor and reset the internal computer (do this by restarting the unit).

*Note: If the the salinity reading has been recalibrated this reading maybe different.

 

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Once you report the data, we can run some sophisticated statistical analysis to evaluate the accuracy, precision and resolution of the different salinity readings from each different method and then you can create a calculator that allows the input of various parameters like salt additions, water added and removed, salinity readings etc. to better analyze the salinity and how it changes over time.
 
On my Apera PC60, salinity is always reported as "ppt". I see no mention in the PC60 manual of an upper salinity range value.
So yours works fine for reading pool salinity? I didnt even open it once i saw the chart on the outside of the box. I have and apera PH60 which i love so i thought the PC60 would be a great addition.

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The PPT scale still gives you enough data to understand the salinity.

Many salt meters will read to 1 ppm, but this is a false sense of accuracy.

If you gave 1,000 people the same make and model of salt meter and had them test the same pool water, they would get a range of readings.

If the actual is 3,028 ppm, you might get anywhere from 2,824 ppm to 3,231 ppm.

If you graphed the results, you might get a Bell Curve with 68.26% of the readings in the 2,926 ppm to 3,130 ppm range.

So, you have to think about any single reading not as an absolutely perfect reading, but a reading with a certain percentage of being correct given a range.

Pool Stores love to provide accurate looking numbers like CYA = 61 ppm, but if you do the test many times, you find that the numbers will be different for each test and sometimes by a lot.



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If you had 10,000 readings, the curve might look something like the below graph.

This is a normal distribution with a mean of 3,028 and a range between 2,800 and 3,200.

The standard deviation for this curve is approximately 60.5.

Most of the readings should fall within 1 standard deviation of the mean.

So, about 68.26% of readings will be in the range of 2,968 ppm and 3,089 ppm.

Your reading might be anywhere from 2,800 ppm to 3,200 ppm.

If you have 1 reading, it seems like it is the exact number.

As you get more readings, you realize that each number can only tell you the approximate value based on the accuracy, resolution, precision and repeatability of the test.

The more tests that you get, the more likely you are to know the actual level.

Even if you got 1,000,000 readings, the best you can do is try to estimate the actual salinity by finding the mean.

You also have to consider what you need to do and how much the accuracy, resolution and precision actually matter.

For a SWG, the SWG reading is most important and the test is only to assess the accuracy of the SWG reading.


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If you get a smooth Normal Distribution with a low standard deviation and the tests are just as likely to be over as under, then you can assume that the mean is close to the actual number.

This also helps eliminate outliers where some error has created a reading that is way off.

The stated Accuracy, Precision, Resolution etc. for any given meter, drop test, test strip etc. are based on the assumption of the test being done exactly right with the correct procedure, meter calibrated properly, reagents in good condition etc.

There are many sources of error that can affect the test beyond the capability of the test.

The only time you can get exact numbers is when you can count something.

If you have a small pile of change, you can count the different coins and give an exact amount for each coin like 5 quarters, 3 dimes etc.

Even then, you can have uncertainty because people can make mistakes in counting.

When you measure something like length, weight, salinity, temperature etc. you cannot get to an exact number because there will always be some uncertainty in the measurement.

The main questions are how much certainty is required to make a decision and how do you get to that certainty?

For example, if you are a Pool Company that is going to install a SWG for a customer and you send a service tech out to measure the salinity so you know how much salt to bring and add and they come back and say that the salinity is 2,145 ppm.

If you rely on this number and add salt, and the number was really 3,500 ppm, then you will be over the limit and now you have to do a partial drain and refill.

So, you need a way to specify the level of certainty for any reading and you need to know how certain you want to be before taking action.

A digital Meter might show an exact number to 1 ppm, but you need to understand that this is not as accurate as it seems.

Using PPT should be as useful as a reading in PPM based on the accuracy and resolution of the test.

If we assume a +/- 100 ppm accuracy, then that is 0.1 ppt.

So, if a salinity meter shows 3.2 ppt, then you know that the level is 3,100 ppm to 3,300 ppm to maybe 97% certainty.

Giving a reading of 3,238 ppm is not useful and it can even inspire a level of confidence that is not warranted.

If you really need confidence in the reading, you should use multiple independent readings like a K-1766 and a calibrated salt meter.

If the readings are close, then you can have more confidence.

If the readings are far apart, then you know that one or both have to be significantly off.

I do not like relying on any single test for salinity especially for critical things like adding a lot of salt.
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Hello, Just an update that I hope is helpful to anyone in the future. I did get the C-600 and the "TF Salt Bundle a.k.a. K-1766". The K-1766 resulted in 2600 ppm, and the C-600 returned 2500. The K-1766 is measured in increments of 200, so it's the amount of drops times 200. This meant that is has about a +- 100 variance. So all in all I am very pleased and these will save me a lot of time and money. I will use the K-1766 at regular intervals and the C-600 for spot testing inbetween.
 
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