Need recommendation and second opinion on chemicals for freshly filled pool.

[1advancing]

Hello, I am looking for second opinion on chemicals that were recommended by local pool store. I would also like to mention that I am fairly new to the technology of using chemicals to upkeep the pool. I am asking second thought because 1 I don't fully understand this stuff, and 2 the guy working there didn't seem to be thinking to straight and he even miscounted some dollar costs when I was making the purchase etc.

Anyway I took a water sample to the store and here is what the results were:

Free Available Chlorine: 0
Total Available Chlorine: 0
Calcium Hardness: 50
Cyanuric Acid: 0
Total Alkalinity: 50
pH: 7.4
Copper, Iron, Dissolved solid, Phosphates are all 0.

Their recommendation was for 21 lbs of Alkalinity Up to raise total Alkalinity (day 1), 75 lbs of Hardness plus to raise calcium hardness (day 2), 2 qt of Sodium hypochlorite 12% (chlorine) (day 3), and lastly 15 qt of instant pool water conditioner to raise the cyanuric acid level (day 4).

Honestly I don't know exact size of my pool, I tried to call the company that build it but they had no info. I think it is about 30-40k. We went off of 30k for now. I found some methods to measure it so I'll try to do that soon. But I also want to keep chlorine and all chemicals to minimum where possible enough to keep the pool clean etc.

Does this sound right? Or is there better alternative? Again I'm trying to use as few chemicals as possible. And substitute with more filtration.

Also in case that their recommendation is optimal, do I really have to wait each day between the chemical additions or I can turn the pump at higher RPM and let about 4 hours go by instead?

How soon can the automatic robot be inserted after?

How soon can the pool be used for swimming?

Thanks any info and recommendations are appreciated.

 

[tim5055]

Welcome to TFP!!

First, are we talking a concrete/gunite/plaster pool or a vinyl pool?

Did you buy all their suggestions from them?? If you check out Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals you will see that many of the things they sell are basic supermarket stuff in a fancy package and an inflated price.

The first thing you need to add is chlorine, Sodium hypochlorite 12 % liquid is great. For now you want your FC to be 2-3 so use PoolMath to calculate how much to add. Chlorine is a consumable item, it must be added every day.

Your answer to the question as to the type of pool will determine if calcium hardness (CH) is even needed.

TA is the last thing to worry about, but Alkalinity Up is noting more than baking soda.

The most important think you need is your own accurate test kit. Not much credence is given to pool store testing around here. While you would think that a "professional" would be the best, unfortunately in most cases it is quite the opposite. Between employees who blindly trust the word of chemical sales representatives and high school kids working in the pool store for the summer you end up with poor results from their testing.

We base our pool care system on accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit. Order a TF100 test kit. The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want. Even then it is a little short on the reagent & powder for the FAS/DPD test.

We want you to be careful when adding conditioner, which is also known as stabilizer or CYA. Liquid (instant) is the most expensive way to go. For now I would not want you to add more than 9 quarts if you already bought the liquid. We need to get the true size of your pool so we don'
t put too much in.

Please edit your signature and add the following information so we can better frame our answers to you.

• List what test kit you use to test your water
  
• The size of your pool in gallons
  
• If your pool is an AG (above ground) or IG (in ground)
  
• If it's IG, tell us if it's vinyl, plaster/pebble, or fiberglass
  
• The type filter you have (sand, DE, cartridge)
  
• If you know, tell us the make and model of your pump and filter.
  
• List any other equipment you have: SWG, second pump, etc.
  
• Please mention if you fill the pool from a well or are currently on water restrictions

Information in your signature will show up each time you post and it makes advice more accurate as we know what equipment we are dealing with.

How much Pool School have you read? Start with these:
ABCs of Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool

So, welcome to TFP!!

 

[domct203]

.............. Again I'm trying to use as few chemicals as possible. And substitute with more filtration.

Welcome to the forum.

Filtration is not the same as sanitation, and can not be substituted as such. The proper FC (free chlorine) to CYA ratio must always be maintained to keep the water free of algae, bacteria & person to person diseases. Your filter's purpose is to keep the water clear of debris, your sanitizer (chlorine) will keep the water safe to swim in.

Chlorine / CYA Chart

 

[tim5055]

Welcome to the forum.

Filtration is not the same as sanitation, and can not be substituted as such. The proper FC (free chlorine) to CYA ratio must always be maintained to keep the water free of algae, bacteria & person to person diseases. Your filter's purpose is to keep the water clear of debris, your sanitizer (chlorine) will keep the water safe to swim in.

Thanks for catching that Dom, I totally missed that detail....

 

[1advancing]

Hello tim5055,

Thanks for the welcome and some of the details.

I am not certain but I was told it is most likely plaster. Might be concrete. Is there a sure way to check?

The water is fairly fresh filled, without small "however" that I had to fix a leaking pipe and so filtration wasn't working for some time and it started getting slightly foggy.

I did buy the items but I could return them if needed I assume. Although I think at this point it would be more reasonable for me to use it, as by the time I spend gas to drive to exchange, and time, and gas and time to buy the cheaper stuff it may end up the same or more. Plus I am fairly new to this and trying not to make mistakes.

The guy at the pool store said I need to add Alkaline first, is that not correct? By the way the water became foggy and almost not visible after I added the amount they recommended, is that normal? I was guessing it would normalize after other chemicals although slightly worried about it.

I think I agree with you that most working there are not as experienced, that is why I started reading online and found this forum and thought I'd ask here, as I felt they could be wrong there. I also went to another pool store where the guy there seemed a little bit more knowledgeable, he recommended almost same thing but different doses. Although after test he said the Alkaline was fine and not needed, he also said that the foggy water should become clear soon.

I am considering to get a test kit but at this time I don't feel comfortable using it and trying to learn all of the chemical terminology etc, but at some point I think I will start to test it myself and make some of the decisions on what to add. For now I'm kind of going off the recommendations and doing what seems right.

We estimated the pool is a bit less or more 30,000 gallons. I found a way to measure it online which I will try to do but it should be very close to that.

The pool is inground.

Most likely plaster.

Filter is cartridges based. 420 size. (clean and clear plus model)

Variable speed pump.

I filled up by standard water from hose and don't have well now/yet.


Going back to notes on the 2 stores, first said to add hardness plus (calcium) next. but another store said to do it very last and do the chlorine then conditioner and then hardness last. What is best to do?

- - - Updated - - -

domct203 ,
Thanks.

Sure I understand that chemical is an essential part and I wasn't talking about withholding from doing it but rather minimizing it or doing only the very essential amount. To my understanding if filtration is good and water is movement exists then less chance for algae development etc.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Be cautious raising your calcium- you live in California and most folks out west have problems with high calcium. Both from the water source and also as water evaporates from the pool the calcium remains so the pool's level rises. Too much calcium causes scale type problems.

You need chlorine in there pronto or you are asking for algae to take over. If you are already cloudy you need to use chlorine more often... and perform a SLAM procedure which will kill ALL the algae and other cooties but takes a little time. Could be a couple days up to a couple weeks. BUT you must have a reliable test kit to use during this time....pool store tests=no bueno!

Directions for SLAM --> SLAM Process

Bleach, regular old plain bleach is your best source for chlorine since it doesn't have other ingredients in it also. Those other ingredients (calcium or CYA stabilizer) build up and people don't know how they got so high!?! We want you to use just the basic simple chemicals in the least intrusive way.

If you can use a computer and post messages, you can use a simple test kit by reading the simple directions. One test at a time. Go for the TF-100 from TFTestkits.net It is a preferred test kit and will save you tons of money in the long run.. I promise.

We need to know:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

Maddie

Addendum: please don't confuse filtering with sanitation. One takes out microscopic debris (skin cells, dust, bugs, whatever the filter gets a hold of) and the other kills virii, bacteria, fungus, algae and keeps it from causing problems. If you swim with someone with open lesions, for example, a filter won't help you. Chlorine to kill the virus, bacteria or what ever caused the lesion is what you need. Chlorine = sanitation.... Filtration = collecting debris

 

[1advancing]

Be cautious raising your calcium- you live in California and most folks out west have problems with high calcium. Both from the water source and also as water evaporates from the pool the calcium remains so the pool's level rises. Too much calcium causes scale type problems.

You need chlorine in there pronto or you are asking for algae to take over. If you are already cloudy you need to use chlorine more often... and perform a SLAM procedure which will kill ALL the algae and other cooties but takes a little time. Could be a couple days up to a couple weeks. BUT you must have a reliable test kit to use during this time....pool store tests=no bueno!

Directions for SLAM --> SLAM Process

Bleach, regular old plain bleach is your best source for chlorine since it doesn't have other ingredients in it also. Those other ingredients (calcium or CYA stabilizer) build up and people don't know how they got so high!?! We want you to use just the basic simple chemicals in the least intrusive way.

If you can use a computer and post messages, you can use a simple test kit by reading the simple directions. One test at a time. Go for the TF-100 from TFTestkits.net It is a preferred test kit and will save you tons of money in the long run.. I promise.

We need to know:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

Maddie

Addendum: please don't confuse filtering with sanitation. One takes out microscopic debris (skin cells, dust, bugs, whatever the filter gets a hold of) and the other kills virii, bacteria, fungus, algae and keeps it from causing problems. If you swim with someone with open lesions, for example, a filter won't help you. Chlorine to kill the virus, bacteria or what ever caused the lesion is what you need. Chlorine = sanitation.... Filtration = collecting debris

I listed the test results in the first post. Or are you asking for something else?

As I already mentioned the pool was mostly clear until I added the Alkaline as suggested by pool store and a few websites I've read. The water was filled up not too long ago after pool was painted.

I am very good with computers but when it comes to chemicals I am a bit hesitant because it involves health. But I think I am getting the idea and once I read a bit more hopefully I will understand how it all works and will feel more comfortable to get a test kit and adjust chemicals, but perhaps I could get a test kit and learn how to use it as a good start. But right now I need a solution fast and cannot wait to order and receive a test kit etc, I already started adding the chemicals. At this point I added the Alkaline and a bit of hardness the next day.The first store recommended to add 75lbs of hardness, the second store I went to said to add only 25 and see how it goes, so I added roughly 25lbs. To my understanding I can always add later if needed from the 75lbs bucket I purchased.

 

[jstephens1]

We don’t trust pool testing. It has been proven inconsistent over and over. There could be a good chance you don’t need anything you bought.

 

[1advancing]

We don’t trust pool testing. It has been proven inconsistent over and over. There could be a good chance you don’t need anything you bought.

Really? it could be that "off"? I thought it could be just slightly inaccurate.
Wouldn't there be law suites if they would provide false results? As if someone "over doses" the pool it could cause health problems?
In addition I read through several websites and they recommended same chemicals for newly filled up pools.

 

[jagger2005]

You do need the same chemicals for the pools.

Calcium hardness to raise CH - when needed. Startup is most likely one of those times. Since you do not have a test kit, you could go with 50 and use Pool Math to raise it to 300-350. Where you live, probably the last time you will ever need it. Thus, the noted concern to be careful. If your pool was fiberglass or vinyl, no reason to ever add it. Btw, an overdose on this an most products will not cause any health issues - except to the health of your pool.


Update:
Chlorine to raise FC. TFP recommends liquid chlorine or bleach - same thing, only difference is concentration. We do not recommend the regular use of solid forms of chlorine-pucks or powders-because they contain other chemicals that are bound to chlorine to make it available in a solid form. Some use stabilizer(CYA) others use CH.

CYA to help protect the FC from the sun. The liquid form is much more expensive than solid.

Muriatic acid to lower pH and some other product to raise it. And yes, I have no clue what that product is because I am sure I will never need it. Easy to find in pool school. Since your pool is new, you will be pushing the pH down for the next few months.

The philosophy here is to worry about TA last. I will give you my experience as an example. I only lower my TA, when I am trying to stabilize my pH. When I opened pool it was 130 and I was adding muriatic acid every other day to control pH. I learned here to lower my pH to 7.2, let it rise back up on its own to 7.8 and then push it back down to 7.2 and repeat. Overtime, these method lowered my TA to 60 and my PH stayed at 7.5 for months. Many months. Due to a lack of rain and high TA in my fill water, my TA was back at 110, so I am going through process again - much easier now that pool is broken in.

 

[1advancing]

You do need the same chemicals for the pools.

Calcium hardness to raise CH - when needed. Startup is most likely one of those times. Since you do not have a test kit, you could go with 50 and use Pool Math to raise it to 300-350. Where you live, probably the last time you will ever need it. Thus, the noted concern to be careful. If your pool was fiberglass or vinyl, no reason to ever add it. Btw, an overdose on this an most products will not cause any health issues - except to the health of your pool.

I'll try to get a test kit but I need to get the pool up and running now as a test kit will take time to arrive and I'll have to also read about how to use it. With that said I went to 2 different pool stores (Leslies and another one possibly a bit more "upscale". First one showed hardness 50 and second showed 60. So even if it is not fully accurate I am assuming it should be somewhere between 40 up to 70 but not out of that range.

How is it possible that overdose cannot cause health issues if practically every bucket and package of these products says that it harmful if swallowed and can cause issues on direct contact with skin? I understand that when it is concentrated and spread through water it is big difference but still it is same substance and a huge amount of it logically could cause problems, especially chlorine. It doesn't take to be a pool specialist to figure that.

Yes they said this is for first time only. I think I spent about $160 for all of the chems so far.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[jagger2005]

And yes you could have added all those products day 1 - not really sure about the stuff to raise TA, though. Get some chlorine in there 2-3 FC for now.

Your fill water had 0 CYA so you know that is accurate, you can use pool math to determine how much to add to raise it to 30.

Was your pool just built by a pool builder? Usually they leave something for testing.

There are many people here to help answer questions, but everything starts with you doing the testing with a good kit. Once you start, you will find that is extremely easy. I can guarantee you a 70 kit?? will be the best investment you ever make in your pool. And if you splurge on the 40 speedstir that will be 2nd.

Almost forgot:
Welcome to TFP!

 

[jagger2005]

You are dumping the chemicals in a 30k gallon body of water. You could pour 3 gallons of bleach in that pool and it might raise your FC to 10 - which is perfectly safe if you have have some CYA in it. Pour 3 gallons in an empty bath tub and sit in it - might have some health issues.

Pour a gallon of muriatic acid in your pool, it is diluted by 30k in half an hour. Drink it, spill it on your skin, or even take a big whiff - problematic.

 

[jagger2005]

Chlorine is your friend. It is the only thing you are going to add to the pool to sanitize the water and to make it safe for you, family and friends to swim in it. Your pH could be 6.6 or 8.4 and it is still safe to swim - your eyes might feel like there burning because your tears are closer to 7.5. You want to keep between 7.2 and 7.8 for that reason. If you get way out of bounds either direction it can have dramatic impact on your plaster or equipment.

Your adding CH to protect your plaster and CYA to protect your chlorine from the sun.

 

[1advancing]

And yes you could have added all those products day 1 - not really sure about the stuff to raise TA, though. Get some chlorine in there 2-3 FC for now.

Your fill water had 0 CYA so you know that is accurate, you can use pool math to determine how much to add to raise it to 30.

Was your pool just built by a pool builder? Usually they leave something for testing.

There are many people here to help answer questions, but everything starts with you doing the testing with a good kit. Once you start, you will find that is extremely easy. I can guarantee you a 70 kit?? will be the best investment you ever make in your pool. And if you splurge on the 40 speedstir that will be 2nd.

Almost forgot:
Welcome to TFP!

No the pool is actually somewhat old, but it has not been operational for some time, due to some problems such as drain clogged etc. Now it was fixed and painted and new pump installed and operational finally after several years.

Thanks for the recommendation, seems like I really do need that kit, but again if I order it I will still have to wait several days. I need to know what to do now. I think I mostly have a plan. But one thing I am trying to understand is why the pool is "foggy" (unclear) after I added Alkaline, if I added too much or it will normalize and become clear after some time and the rest of the chemicals go in?

What is the "speedstir"?

- - - Updated - - -

You are dumping the chemicals in a 30k gallon body of water. You could pour 3 gallons of bleach in that pool and it might raise your FC to 10 - which is perfectly safe if you have have some CYA in it. Pour 3 gallons in an empty bath tub and sit in it - might have some health issues.

Pour a gallon of muriatic acid in your pool, it is diluted by 30k in half an hour. Drink it, spill it on your skin, or even take a big whiff - problematic.

Yeah, but so overdose can potentially cause problems, even though it has to be a big difference. But someone here posted saying that the pool store's test results could be completely off. I have doubts on that, I think they could be off a bit but not by a ton otherwise people would have serious problems, if not with health then at least with pools like you were saying that lack or overdose of chemicals could damage pool. So it would result if not in law suites then at least in problems and small claims.

- - - Updated - - -

Chlorine is your friend. It is the only thing you are going to add to the pool to sanitize the water and to make it safe for you, family and friends to swim in it. Your pH could be 6.6 or 8.4 and it is still safe to swim - your eyes might feel like there burning because your tears are closer to 7.5. You want to keep between 7.2 and 7.8 for that reason. If you get way out of bounds either direction it can have dramatic impact on your plaster or equipment.

Your adding CH to protect your plaster and CYA to protect your chlorine from the sun.

Thanks for the additional information. Do you think I can run the robotic cleaner already as I am adding the rest of the chemicals or I should wait until it filters for a day or two?

Also do you think Polaris or Dolphin is better product? If you have experience with them.

I went to two different stores and different people seem to have somewhat different opinions.

 

[Caco]

Hi and welcome

Thanks for the recommendation, seems like I really do need that kit, but again if I order it I will still have to wait several days.

Yes you do need the kit. It is a bit hard to tell you how to get where you need to be if we dont know where you are starting from. I think Walmart has a basic HTH 4 way kit that can test some of the parameters but essentially you need the full testing kit asap to protect your health and your pool and its equipment.

But one thing I am trying to understand is why the pool is "foggy" (unclear) after I added Alkaline, if I added too much or it will normalize and become clear after some time and the rest of the chemicals go in?

It may become clear or it may not. Basically alkalinity up is baking soda. If you added the right amount the cloudy may clear up in a day or tow. But you have also spent some time with low or no chlorine in your pool. the cloudy may just as easily be the start of algae. No way to really tell without accurate testing. And testing if your chlorine is dropping fast due to algae means taking tests a short time apart or late evening and early the next morning. Hard to do that at a pool store

What is the "speedstir"?

A speedstir is a magnetic stirring device for your test tubes for while testing. This is so you dont have to swirl the tube by hand and count drops that you are putting in with the other hand. It makes your testing a lot easier

But someone here posted saying that the pool store's test results could be completely off. I have doubts on that, I think they could be off a bit but not by a ton otherwise people would have serious problems, if not with health then at least with pools like you were saying that lack or overdose of chemicals could damage pool. So it would result if not in law suites then at least in problems and small claims.

You need to read more of the posts on here. People have had chemical damage to their pools, hair stained green, staining of their pool, wasted lots of dollars on unnecessary chemicals that then needed other chemicals to correct, people saying the water is irritating and they blame it on the chlorine not that their pool is unbalanced
If you dont understand how to do the tests you can make easy mistakes and get totally wrong readings. Like a customer coming in with really high chlorine levels which bleach out the tests.

BTW the tests are easy. The instructions are really clear. There are youtube videos to help and any questions you can ask here cos most of us use the same or similar tests. Most people 'have it down' after a couple of testing rounds

 

[jagger2005]

No the pool is actually somewhat old, but it has not been operational for some time, due to some problems such as drain clogged etc. Now it was fixed and painted and new pump installed and operational finally after several years.

Thanks for the recommendation, seems like I really do need that kit, but again if I order it I will still have to wait several days. I need to know what to do now. I think I mostly have a plan. But one thing I am trying to understand is why the pool is "foggy" (unclear) after I added Alkaline, if I added too much or it will normalize and become clear after some time and the rest of the chemicals go in?

What is the "speedstir"?

- - - Updated - - -

Yeah, but so overdose can potentially cause problems, even though it has to be a big difference. But someone here posted saying that the pool store's test results could be completely off. I have doubts on that, I think they could be off a bit but not by a ton otherwise people would have serious problems, if not with health then at least with pools like you were saying that lack or overdose of chemicals could damage pool. So it would result if not in law suites then at least in problems and small claims.

- - - Updated - - -




Thanks for the additional information. Do you think I can run the robotic cleaner already as I am adding the rest of the chemicals or I should wait until it filters for a day or two?

Also do you think Polaris or Dolphin is better product? If you have experience with them.

I went to two different stores and different people seem to have somewhat different opinions.

Caco, already answered must of the questions and I 2nd what he noted. I am not familiar with what precautions you need to take with a painted gunite pool. Not sure if the process is paint over the plaster or over the "concrete." Hopefully, some will have some good advice for that. But the basics, chlorine and CYA are the same across all surfaces.

If you have not already added, you need to get a gallon of that 12% chlorine in the pool, asap. If 30k is accurate, that will raise FC to 3. I have seen many times on TFP, where moderators recommend non-aggressive approach to keep some FC in the pool until the test kit arrives. Adding a gallon a day for your pool size, fits that bill. Unfortunately, that FC 3 you add is probably going to be back to zero by the end of day because even in a balanced pool, we tend to lose 2-4 FC per day.
That HTH 4 way kit, maybe a good intermediate for you until you can get a better test kit. This will at least allow you to keep the FC around 5 until the real deal arrives. With a good test kit, we would recommend a SLAM (good subject to read up on in pool school) and with a CYA of 30, you would need to keep your FC at 12 constantly, until you meet these criteria:
water is crystal clear
CC 0.5 or 0
pass an OCLT - overnight chlorine loss test
Unfortunately, there is no way to measure FC of 12 without one of the recommended test kits.

If you walked back into that pool start and told them you added the ingredients they recommended, tell him pool is cloudy, and handed him a sample of water - I will be willing to bet, he is going to sell you some shock and tell you to add it to the pool. We are essentially recommending the same thing to start, where TFP diverges is wanting you to maintain that higher FC until those 3 requirements I mentioned are met. And it is not practical for you to get your water testes several times in the same day at the pool store.

I can give you no advice on the Polaris or Dolphin. I would think both are great products. Kind of like an Accord and a Camry - comes down to personal preference. I will offer advice on the test kit. Both the TFT-100 and the Taylor K2006 are great kits. Your best bang for your buck is the TFT-100. You can order from TFTTestKits.net with very fast shipping - if you added that speedstir to the order, I think that puts the order over 100 and you get free shipping - check the website. If you do decide to get the K2006, I would recommend the K2006C because it has more of the reagents that you will need regularly. I see time and time again where a user ran out of reagents in just a few days while trying to clear a SLAM after buying the non C version of the kit.

 

[tim5055]

You have been getting good advice here, but for someone new to pools it can seem like trying to drink from a fire hose: too much information flowing toward you too fast....

So, in my first post I said:

The first thing you need to add is chlorine, Sodium hypochlorite 12 % liquid is great. For now you want your FC to be 2-3 so use PoolMath to calculate how much to add. Chlorine is a consumable item, it must be added every day.

Your answer to the question as to the type of pool will determine if calcium hardness (CH) is even needed.

TA is the last thing to worry about, but Alkalinity Up is noting more than baking soda.

You need to be adding chlorine every day. Chlorine sanitizes the water and keeps it safe.

Yes, with a plaster pool you do need calcium, but I'm still a little confused as to the surface. Is it painted (they went over the surface with a brush/rollers) or just a white/colored plaster (they applied the new surface with a trowel).

You also said:

why the pool is "foggy" (unclear) after I added Alkaline

What exactly was the "Alkaline" you added? I could read that you added alkalinity up product (baking soda) or a calcium product. What exactly have you added each day.

I can't stress enough, chlorine must be added each day. With no chlorine algae may get a foothold and you will end up with a green swamp. The foggy water could be the start of algae or a reaction to one of the products you added. Other than the chlorine to keep the water free of algae there is nothing else that is an emergency to add to your water. You keep saying that it will take days to get a test kit. You can wait days. Your pool will not suffer damage waiting on getting the test kit.

Now what I'm going to say may sound a bit blunt, but it really isn't meant to be mean.

Now is the time to make a decision, keep following the pool store and dropping lots of money there or follow our methods. It's your decision. Pool store or TFP. We don't have a magic bullet other than the best pool care chemical there is, chlorine.

Until you have your own test kit that we can rely on the numbers there is nothing we can do other than feel bad about your pool. We are going to tell you totally different things to do with your pool than the folks at the pool store. If you keep listening to both you will drive yourself crazy.

 

[jagger2005]

Tim states it better and is they guy with the advice to follow.

 

[1advancing]

You have been getting good advice here, but for someone new to pools it can seem like trying to drink from a fire hose: too much information flowing toward you too fast....

So, in my first post I said:



You need to be adding chlorine every day. Chlorine sanitizes the water and keeps it safe.

Yes, with a plaster pool you do need calcium, but I'm still a little confused as to the surface. Is it painted (they went over the surface with a brush/rollers) or just a white/colored plaster (they applied the new surface with a trowel).

You also said: What exactly was the "Alkaline" you added? I could read that you added alkalinity up product (baking soda) or a calcium product. What exactly have you added each day.

I can't stress enough, chlorine must be added each day. With no chlorine algae may get a foothold and you will end up with a green swamp. The foggy water could be the start of algae or a reaction to one of the products you added. Other than the chlorine to keep the water free of algae there is nothing else that is an emergency to add to your water. You keep saying that it will take days to get a test kit. You can wait days. Your pool will not suffer damage waiting on getting the test kit.

Now what I'm going to say may sound a bit blunt, but it really isn't meant to be mean.

Now is the time to make a decision, keep following the pool store and dropping lots of money there or follow our methods. It's your decision. Pool store or TFP. We don't have a magic bullet other than the best pool care chemical there is, chlorine.

Until you have your own test kit that we can rely on the numbers there is nothing we can do other than feel bad about your pool. We are going to tell you totally different things to do with your pool than the folks at the pool store. If you keep listening to both you will drive yourself crazy.

Hello, thanks for more information and suggestions. I appreciate it.

I will add the chlorine today.

The pool was painted with insulX WR-1024 paint. (Acrylic)
It wash pressure washed a few times prior to the painting. (and selectively scrubbed in some areas to get old paint off where pressure washer missed)
2 layers were added. (Having a company do it was too expensive so I did it myself) But I think it turned out fairly well.

I added "Alkalinity Up" Leslie's Pools brand:

I've purchased Chlorine but didn't add it because the pool store said to do it on third step after alkalinity and hardness. But I'm planning to add it today. I've added half a gallon prior to that but it probably evaporated fast since it was hot here.

Just to clarify again the water was fairly clear and became "cloudy" immediately after I added Alkalinity. Just on a note I added Alkalinity at night when it was dark and checked in morning. So it is either due to Alkalinity or it's reaction to a start of developing algae perhaps, but again before Alkalinity pool was fairly clear, maybe just a tiny bit cloudy but not bad at all.

Yes it is a bit hard to digest all of the information without some time passing and getting more knowledge in this, I've been talking to pool store, and also reading and watching videos on youtube, but now also found this forum and you nice folks.

I'll look for a tester on Amazon they usually ship fairly fast. Probably better to just get a good one the first time instead of getting cheap Walmart one then getting a good one. Thanks again and let me know what you think I can do about the "cloudy" water at this time.