Need help with Salt cell

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Glofton

Glofton

0
Jul 3, 2018
65
Loganville Ga
I have a Hayward Aqua Plus system with a GLX-CELL-15-W salt cell.

My numbers from diagnostics menu: 25.30V 8.50A 4100PPM

Just finished a SLAM where my salt readings were continually showing 3600 during the SLAM with the SWG off. Once I finished the SLAM and turned the SWG back on my salt reading went up to 4100. Also, with the chlorinator off, the instant salt shows 0000PPM. Does the chlorinator have to be on to show correct instant salt? Do my voltage and amp numbers look ok? This cell was replaced about 2 months ago. I guess my cell is not going to produce chlorine while showing that high of a salt reading? No red lights or errors on board. Took cell to my local pool store and they said the cell tested ok.

Not sure why the sudden increase in salt readings. We did add about 100 jugs of 6% bleach to the pool during the SLAM process.
 
on my aquaplus I have to go into diagnostics menu and the cell needs to be on for it to show instant salt. mine shows lower all the time than what it actually tests at with the tft kit. I average 2800-3000 when it displays the value but its actually 3400ish. you can thin out th enumber after alot of rain, esp if you have an overflow setup on your pool. the other thing is you will always make some salt in a pool, after years of ppl using pucks etc. they will have salt that tests in the hundreds even thousands.

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when the cell is powered up do you see any air bubbles out of your returns? thats kinda how I know mine is working, I think the check system light goes on if the level is too high for it to operate.
 
I think you need to check both sides of the polarity. Do what you first did and then turn the switch off, wait 10 seconds, turn the switch back on and when you here a click the readings will be the other side of the polarity, record and post both. They may be the same or completely different.

An accurate salt measurement will be helpful for the Amps range.
 
Some software versions fault at 8.0 amps, but other versions fault at 10.0 amps. If the system does not fault, you're ok. If it does fault, you will need to lower the salinity.

When checking diagnostics, press the + button to reverse polarity to see if the amps and instant salinity are the same.

The amps and instant salinity are 0 when not generating.

100 gallons of 6% bleach will increase salinity by about 380 ppm. So, that makes sense.
 
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