Need Help - Hayward AquaRite No Lights

Squatting Hen

Well-known member
Aug 28, 2024
78
Dallas TX
I just started taking care of my pool last month myself, got rifles of the pool people. Noticed over the past few days my chlorine level was dropping. I increased the cell two days ago, and today it was just a little LOWER. Went to the board again and the lcd screen was on like always but no other lights were on. No power light and no generating light.

I flipped the power off and back on. The no flow light blinked initially, went off, generating came on for 8 seconds and then went out. Power light didn’t come on at all.

Need help on what I should and can do.

Thank you.
 

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I opened it up, tapped on this black thing and the lights came on, but went back off after a few minutes.
That black thing is called a "Thermistor", it is a common problem with the Hayward Aquarite and AquaTrol. It is a cheap part and can be found on Amazon. It is a pretty easy fix if you have some soldering experience. You have to remove the board from the control box to do it.
Aqua-Rite Thermistor AS32 2R025.( Pack of 2) Inrush Current Limiter 2 Ohm Ohm ±25% 1.18 (30mm)

Aqua-Rite Thermistor AS32 2R025.( Pack of 2) Inrush Current Limiter 2 Ohm Ohm ±25% 1.18" (30mm)

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$13.93$13.93 ($6.97$6.97/Item)


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Until you get your aquarite sorted out be sure to use liquid chlorine to keep your fc in target range for your cya
FC/CYA Levels so you don’t get an algae problem on top of your equipment troubles.
 
Thanks everyone. Got some liquid chlorine and added that so hopefully we are good there. Wasn’t sure about having to solder the part, but read on one of those links about the kit on eBay so I ordered that. It’s more expensive obviously, but looks much easier to replace.

Guess I need to have liquid chlorine on hand anyway since my generator doesn’t work when it gets too cold.
 
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Got the kit from eBay and was able to screw the new one on. Only been a few hours, but everything is back to normal now.

Oh….that Dang thing is Hot too. It stuck out too much initially and was only on for a few minutes. Touch it to take it off and learned my lesson right away….let that thing cool down.

It tricked me because the defective one wasn’t even warm at all when I took it off.
 
Got the kit from eBay and was able to screw the new one on. Only been a few hours, but everything is back to normal now.

Oh….that Dang thing is Hot too. It stuck out too much initially and was only on for a few minutes. Touch it to take it off and learned my lesson right away….let that thing cool down.

It tricked me because the defective one wasn’t even warm at all when I took it off.
Glad it worked out for you.
 
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Body Temperature at 100% Max Current: 236.00 °C.

1729727760693.png

Body Temperature at 100% Max Current: 236.00 °C.

.that Dang thing is Hot too.
I replaced it with SL32 and it’s showing good volts and current, It’s running at about 290 degF. Quite hot.
290 F = 143 C.

Body Temperature at 100% Max Current: 236.00 °C = 456.8° F

290 F seems a little bit hot to me.

I would estimate the temperature vs. amps to be approximately the graph below.

You would need to contact Ametherm to get the actual graph.

1729727837309.png


1729727857222.png
 

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What did you screw on? The thermistor is a soldered on part.
Never soldered before so this is what I did instead.

Was able to do it without taking the board out.


 
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I flipped off the power, took the old one off (it was cold), put the new one on, flipped the power, saw it working and tried to put the panel back on. Panel was hitting it, so I cut the power touched the thermistor to take it off….yeah…hot. Gave it a shot but 10-30 minutes I think, and it was all good.

Granted, I touched it for a millisecond….and nature took over.
 
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