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Swampwoman said:
Good job working blind, justFillitin -- I can't wait til you have the test kit ;)

Re:water swapping...how you get your cya down (once you have the means to test it) is up to you....but study the cya:chlorine chart (link in my signature) so that you're very comfortable with the ratios if it will be a moving target for you during the slam.

Normally, having the cya where you want it to begin the slam makes a little more sense because to do a partial drain AFTER you've used all that chlorine and filter time to clear your water is kinda wasting the effort a bit ;) A partial drain before just saves on bleach cost and filter time to get clear, so it expedites the process.

Its also a bit easier to slam with a lower and known/stable cya value...because to make the fastest process you are methodically testing and dosing in a way that never let's the slam value fall. A its cheaper to be dosing frequently to a lower slam level than a high one...as much as 30-50% cheaper ;)

So whether you actively drain now, or use vacuuming to waste incrementally over days, the single most important part for speedy recovery is actually maintaining the shock/slam value to cya ratio, which is why the test kit was so critical to the process.

Eg if your cya:FC slam level was 24, for example, and you add to 24 at 8 a.m., then don't check for 2 hours, you will have spent the majority of those 2 hours between tests at less than your slam value, which gives the algae a chance to outpace you and drags out the process.

If instead you dosed a bit above that to account for the drop, you will spend more time in the effective range. (In my case, my cya was low, so if I was aiming for say 12, I'd dose to 16 initially and then see if that "lasted" til the next dose in 2 hrs...) You just don't want to overdo the overdosing because you don't want to bleach the liner or waste bleach.

So, "maintaining" is the critical part, whatever your cya:FC ratio at shock/slam level.

Slamming during the work week is a bit tougher in that you might only be able to check in a.m. and after work. If you are able, it will help if you plan to come home at lunch.

In your case, it sounds like you've already broken its back somewhat and you may find your chlorine holding decently.

Keep us posted and cheers to imminent clearing!
Click to expand...

I looked at the chart you mentioned in your sig. I understand the relationship, and appreciate the tips. I think after the vac and brushing tonight, CYA should be close to nominal. I will confirm this when I get the kit TOMORROW!!! :bounce: If it isnt, I will go to the calculator, and drain as necessary before beginning my "official" slam. I think the chlorine level is holding pretty well. I noticed last night before vac and brush I could actually see the pattern of the liner in spots of the shallow end. It is a lovely black & white leopard type pattern :puke. I have also been using my cheapo kit, and with the very first drop of solution, it jumps higher than the highest count for chlorine. I've noticed a good difference in it even though I have only put what I noticed to be only 96 ounces a night since Friday night. I'm eager to see my true CYA, and get this party started. Thanks to everyone who has given me input and hope so far.:cheers:
 
Keep sending! It's working!
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Test cya when it is daylight. Hold the tube at waist level with your back to the sun so you get indirect bright light on the tube. Fill the tube until you can no longer see the black dot at the bottom, then read the number on the side. You can repeat it a couple times to make sure you get it right.


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CYA - Cyanuric Acid

Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark with pool water. The lower mark may be labeled as 7 ml, 15 ml, or not labeled.
If the pool water is below 70 degrees, allow the water sample to warm up to room temperature before continuing.
Continue filling to the upper mark with R-0013. The upper mark may be labeled as 14 ml, or not labeled, or there may not be a mark and you fill to the base of the neck of the bottle.
Cap and then shake the mixing bottle for 30 seconds.
Stand outdoors with your back to the sun and hold the view tube at about waist level. If sunlight is not available, find the brightest artificial light you can.
Looking down into the view tube, slowly pour the mixture from the mixing bottle into the view tube.
Continue pouring until all traces of the black dot at the bottom of the view tube completely disappear, even after you stare at it for several seconds, or you fill the view tube.
Reading the result:
If the view tube is completely full, and you can still see the black dot clearly, your CYA level is zero.
If the view tube is completely full and the black dot is only partially obscured, your CYA level is above zero but lower than the lowest level your test kit can measure (20 or 30 ppm).
If the tube is not completely full, look at the scale on the side of the view tube. The labeled mark closest to the liquid level indicates your CYA level.
If your CYA level is 90 or higher, repeat the test adjusting the procedure as follows:
Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark with pool water.
Continue filling the mixing bottle to the upper mark with tap water.
Shake briefly to mix.
Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle, so it is again filled to the lower mark.
Continue the test normally from step 3, but multiply the final result by two.


Notes
If you are not confident in your reading, you can pour the solution from the view tube back into the mixing bottle and then try filling the view tube again. You can repeat this portion of the test over and over again for several minutes without affecting the test results.
This page at Taylor Technologies has photographs which show what the view tube looks like when the test is complete.
Very rarely, cloudy or murky water can affect the CYA test. To check for this, fill the view tube with straight pool water. If you can still see the black dot clearly, the cloudy/murky water is not affecting the test result.
View tubes and mixing bottles come in two common sizes. One set requires 7 ml each of pool water and reagent, and reads CYA levels down to 30. The other set uses 15 ml each of pool water and reagent, and reads CYA levels down to 20.
It is also possible to get a tube with a sliding black dot, Taylor 4088, so that you move the black dot up and down in the sample, instead of pouring the sample into the view tube.
If you are using the large view tube and know that your CYA level is at least 50, you can use half as much pool water and half as much R-0013 to save on reagent.
R-0013 contains melamine, which binds to cyanuric acid, forming the white precipitate which turns the sample cloudy.
The precision of the test, when done correctly, is around plus or minus 15 for levels up to 90 and plus or minus 30 for levels between 100 and 200. Novices often have problems reading the test correctly, and tend to get higher than actual readings.
 

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