I had asked the TFP forum some questions about SWGs and the SmarterSpa. A few folks said to post about my experience with the SmarterSpa so here it is.....
I'm very happy with the SmarterSpa. It keeps my free chlorine in the range I want from 1.5 FC to 3.2 with basically no effort. Also, if I don't use my tub or go on vacation, I don't need to do anything and the FC stays in that range. I rarely need to test because the FC is so consistent. Also, after a refill, I use muriatic acid to get my Alk at 60 AND I add borates and my PH stays rock steady until I need to add top off water due to evaporation. I usually need to add a little muriatic acid after adding top off water.
You can set the free chlorine level you want it to turn on at. They call this level the "zero point" (but it should really be called start of chlorine production cycle level or something because you do NOT need to let the chlorine level drop to zero). It is adjustable from 10-60. The number does not represent an actual chlorine amount so you need to use your test kit to make the correlation between the "zero point" number and your free chlorine level. For example, my zero point is set to 25 which equates to turning on when my free chlorine drops to 1.5 FC in my 400 g. tub.
You can also adjust how many hours it runs from 1-10 hours in 1 hour increments. The lowest setting actually can be set for 30 minutes too. Mine is set for 2 hours and it makes about 1.7 free chlorine in that time. You need to use your test kit to determine how long you want it to run for until you get your settings dialed in.
After the production cycle runs, it takes a 3 hours break before it runs again. There is a boost mode button which turns on the chlorine production cycle for the amount of time you have set for your cycle.
There are lights to indicate if the salt level is low, ok or high and it automatically shuts down when the salt level is too high.
After I use my tub, I tend to add some bleach to account for the approximate fc use so my FC does not drop to zero for any extended amount of time. This may not be necessary but it's easy so I do it to be safe. I also currently use a Nature2 stick as an additional level of safety but this is probably not necessary either.
(P.S. I am a corporate coach and psychologist and do NOT do any work in the pool/hot tub industry so have no way to benefit from feedback about this product. )
I'm very happy with the SmarterSpa. It keeps my free chlorine in the range I want from 1.5 FC to 3.2 with basically no effort. Also, if I don't use my tub or go on vacation, I don't need to do anything and the FC stays in that range. I rarely need to test because the FC is so consistent. Also, after a refill, I use muriatic acid to get my Alk at 60 AND I add borates and my PH stays rock steady until I need to add top off water due to evaporation. I usually need to add a little muriatic acid after adding top off water.
You can set the free chlorine level you want it to turn on at. They call this level the "zero point" (but it should really be called start of chlorine production cycle level or something because you do NOT need to let the chlorine level drop to zero). It is adjustable from 10-60. The number does not represent an actual chlorine amount so you need to use your test kit to make the correlation between the "zero point" number and your free chlorine level. For example, my zero point is set to 25 which equates to turning on when my free chlorine drops to 1.5 FC in my 400 g. tub.
You can also adjust how many hours it runs from 1-10 hours in 1 hour increments. The lowest setting actually can be set for 30 minutes too. Mine is set for 2 hours and it makes about 1.7 free chlorine in that time. You need to use your test kit to determine how long you want it to run for until you get your settings dialed in.
After the production cycle runs, it takes a 3 hours break before it runs again. There is a boost mode button which turns on the chlorine production cycle for the amount of time you have set for your cycle.
There are lights to indicate if the salt level is low, ok or high and it automatically shuts down when the salt level is too high.
After I use my tub, I tend to add some bleach to account for the approximate fc use so my FC does not drop to zero for any extended amount of time. This may not be necessary but it's easy so I do it to be safe. I also currently use a Nature2 stick as an additional level of safety but this is probably not necessary either.
(P.S. I am a corporate coach and psychologist and do NOT do any work in the pool/hot tub industry so have no way to benefit from feedback about this product. )
Last edited:
