My First Tests
- Thread starter fatboy1271
- Start date
First, lower the pH to 7.2ish, re-test to confirm, then add enough bleach/liquid chlorine to reach 10 ppm FC.
Based on CYA of 80, keep the FC between 6 and 11, and never below 6. Hop to it
Based on CYA of 80, keep the FC between 6 and 11, and never below 6. Hop to it
What's CL? You really don't need to tell us how many drops you've used, just the final result. Also, you really should be testing fc and pH daily so you can catch any looming problem timely.
Not embarrassed to say I probably will need a little hand holding in the beginning...
- - - Updated - - -
First, lower the pH to 7.2ish, re-test to confirm, then add enough bleach/liquid chlorine to reach 10 ppm FC.
Based on CYA of 80, keep the FC between 6 and 11, and never below 6. Hop to it
Thank for giving me numbers to match! Running new tests to put into the PoolMath page right now.
8/2 @ 7PM
Cl = 1
pH = 7.8
FC = 0.5
CH = 625
TA = 110
CYA = 80
I've done my pool math and purchased KemTek Chlorinating Liquid and Muiatic Acid...
Cl = 1
pH = 7.8
FC = 0.5
CH = 625
TA = 110
CYA = 80
I've done my pool math and purchased KemTek Chlorinating Liquid and Muiatic Acid...
It's been about 12 hours since I put in the muriatic acid and chlorinating liquid. I'm testing FC and pH now, is that an acceptable time period to wait?
pH = 8
FC = 12
If the additions have had enough time to take then the muriatic acid didn't seem to do anything and I overshot a little on the chlorinating liquid.
pH = 8
FC = 12
If the additions have had enough time to take then the muriatic acid didn't seem to do anything and I overshot a little on the chlorinating liquid.
Half an hour is usually plenty of time for things to mix before you retest. But since you weren't off the scale, if you added the correct amounts, there's no reason to check again so soon. Once every 24 hours is plenty.
Thanks Richard! I did edit my post to reflect the tests that I just ran. I'm starting to understand more how to find info on the site and what to look for in the test results. The Recommended Levels and Chlorine / CYA Chart pages made things a lot clearer last night...
I'm finally having fun with testing and seeing the results! 
I've been keeping my FC around 8 and shooting for 9. My pH was less than 7.8 but not quite the same color as 7.5 yesterday.
With my CH being so high is that why the water is cloudy when I'm swimming with my eyes open and no goggles?
If the recommendation for lowering my CYA is to drain 50%, which won't be done due to water restrictions, then how long will it take for Nature to drop this?
Thanks everyone for the help!!!
I've been keeping my FC around 8 and shooting for 9. My pH was less than 7.8 but not quite the same color as 7.5 yesterday.
With my CH being so high is that why the water is cloudy when I'm swimming with my eyes open and no goggles?
If the recommendation for lowering my CYA is to drain 50%, which won't be done due to water restrictions, then how long will it take for Nature to drop this?
Thanks everyone for the help!!!
You eyes are not designed to focus underwater with no goggles, so it always looks cloudy/blurry. The CH should not impact the clarity.
The CYA will only drop when you physically remove water. So how fast that happens I suppose depends on the amount of rain that you get and thus have to pump off water.
The CYA will only drop when you physically remove water. So how fast that happens I suppose depends on the amount of rain that you get and thus have to pump off water.
I read this in the ABCs: "If you have a SWG or very high levels of direct sunlight, CYA is typically kept between 70 and 80." I am in Southern California and my pool gets quite a bit of direct sunlight. With that said am I ok with my CYA staying around 80?
My wife and I should probably be thinking of re-plastering and that would obviously mean the pool needs to be drained. Maybe this winter if we can "afford" to we'll re-plaster, put in a SWG (she read about this and now wants one), and a gas heater...
Thanks for the continued answers/help!!! I love TFP
If you do not need to SLAM, then there is no problem having a higher CYA level ... just make sure you keep the FC high enough so you do not get algae starting.
CYA level of 80 in a non SWG pool is doable. You just have to maintain a higher FC range for it.
Your FC levels should be a target of 10 and never let it fall below 6. You don't want an algae outbreak with high CYA levels. The shock level is 31. Takes whole lot more bleach to get to that FC level. ?
Your FC levels should be a target of 10 and never let it fall below 6. You don't want an algae outbreak with high CYA levels. The shock level is 31. Takes whole lot more bleach to get to that FC level. ?
Tests today:
FC = 7
pH = 7.6
CH = 675
TA = 110
CYA = 100
Pool Math says my minimum for FC is now 8 with a CYA of 100; I've been using 11 as my Goal when adding Chlorine. Are my readings of 80 to 100 normal or am I maybe quite not getting the CYA test yet?
FC = 7
pH = 7.6
CH = 675
TA = 110
CYA = 100
Pool Math says my minimum for FC is now 8 with a CYA of 100; I've been using 11 as my Goal when adding Chlorine. Are my readings of 80 to 100 normal or am I maybe quite not getting the CYA test yet?
Only possible if you added CYA. Read the extended test instructions to be sure you are doing the CYA test correctly.