My first results with TF-Pro Salt

[mShark]

These are the readings from this evening after I got my new TF-Pro Salt test kit, including the CH and CYA which were pool store guesstimates prior to this. I ran the tests multiple times and got the same results. The salt test was the hardest for me to discriminate when it got the right color. I have an SWG which ran 12 hours today at 50%. I lost 1.0 FC from this morning. I passed OCLT last night, losing 0.5 FC.

FC = 6.5
CC = 0.5
pH = 7.2
TA = 70
CH = 550
CYA = 60
Salt = 4000
CSI = -0.38

What do I need to do now?

I also tested my fill water: pH=7.8, TA=190, CH=250, Salt=0. I can also use my softened water: pH=7.5, TA=210, CH=0, Salt=0

 

[wireform]

Your numbers look great. I'd up the CYA 70-80 range for more uv protection. I'd also recommend the FC be in the 10 range.
Yes, if you can fill water loss from the water softener it'll keep the CH from climbing.

 

[mShark]

Should I be concerned about the CSI?

 

[wireform]

CSI should be between +.6 and -.6. The closer to ".0" the better but your CSI is plenty good.

 

[pjt]

What do I need to do now?

Go for a swim.

Consider getting a water softener for your fill line.

Should I be concerned about the CSI?

No. Your pH will naturally rise by itself (which will increase CSI) and can be easily managed with MA. Keep your CSI slightly negative (between zero and -0.3) to prevent buildup on your SWCG.

 

[mShark]

I tested again this morning with these results:

FC = 4.0
CC = 0.5
pH = 7.3
TA = 80
CH = 500
CYA = 50 *
Salt = 4100
Temp = 90

* Learning to read the CYA is a trip. I followed the instructions in pool math, repeating the optical portion of the test a few times and I think my CYA is lower than I was reading last evening. Better lighting I think. Based on the daytime loss yesterday I need more CYA to combat the Texas sun.

Looks like I need to check my chlorine consumption again. I passed OCLT twice, but last night appeared to lose over 2 FC.

 

[Texas Splash]

If the CYA is closer to 50, that would explain the FC drop. Keep some liquid chlorine handy for times like this if you need a quick increase. I'd increase the FC to about 6-7 now and also add at least 10 ppm of stabilizer via the sock method. You can always add another 10 ppm in a day or two if it still seems below 70. A CYA of 70 is more ideal for us. I'm full sun from dawn to dusk out in the country -HOT just south of new New Braunfels. If my CYA is less than 70, it shows in my FC reading.

By the way, if you heard a car honking yesterday, that was me passing by in ridiculous traffic on my way to/from Austin. Ha ha.

 

[Newdude]

What do I need to do now?

Buy a Smart Stir

It's a game changer for high drop tests like CH and salt. And it makes the others 100 times easier too.

 

[mShark]

I like the smart stir that came with the TF-Pro Salt kit. It does make those tests much easier.

I'm off to get stabilizer and buy a pair of cheap white socks...

 

[Newdude]

I like the smart stir that came with the TF-Pro Salt kit. It does make those tests much easier.

Ha !!! It's right in the title of the thread.
Apologies.

The salt test was the hardest for me to discriminate when it got the right color.

This is what tripped me up because so many drops start to change the sample, but quickly revert back to milky yellow. Then BOOM red. (Or salmon or brick or whatves your brain sees it as). The smart stir makes this test SO much easier. So what's the problem them. No matter which shade you see, the end point is night and day.

 

[Newdude]

I'm off to get stabilizer and buy a pair of cheap white socks...

Another way, or use my way but with socks

How to add large batches of CYA

Hey Folks !!! With a large pool, I need 4lbs of CYA to only raise it 15, and I don't think I have that many socks without holes in them. So I use a Tshirt. Plus, I like that it's doubled up for redundancy. But it can also be scaled down with socks. So I measure out my dose and...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[mShark]

This is what tripped me up because so many drops start to change the sample, but quickly revert back to milky yellow.

Yeah, the third time through I got a handle on it. Mine would flash redish for a second them go milky yellow. Then it finally stayed red about where I expected it to.

 

[mShark]

After watching the videos on water testing I may be under reporting my TA. I failed to keep going until no further color changes occurred. I thought I was done when the initial color change happened. For good news, the pool is clear and the wife is happy.

 

[wireform]

After watching the videos on water testing I may be under reporting my TA. I failed to keep going until no further color changes occurred. I thought I was done when the initial color change happened. For good news, the pool is clear and the wife is happy.

That will make little difference, so you may be 1 or 2 drops behind, not a big deal. You treat the elevated PH with MA (muratic acid) and the TA starts to come down too.

 

[Newdude]

70 or 80 isn't 300 and it isn't 20.

Plenty worse happened yesterday in the world if you goofed a drop one way or the other.

 

[mShark]

So, planning for some drain and refill in the future to lower my salt and CH values when they creep on up. I read through the Draining wiki Draining - Further Reading and there is a comment to not stop until finished with the No Drain method. What is the issue with pausing the No Drain process? The reason I am asking is I would need to allow the softener to recharge after about 1800 gallons. Thoughts?

 

[Newdude]

What is the issue with pausing the No Drain process?

If it mixes any in the process, you start draining new water with the old. Starting and stopping will add at least some collateral damage and maybe alot.

 

[wireform]

For the best possible "no drain water exchange" outcome you'd want a good 15 degree delta T between pool and fresh water. Also important is to time the fresh water to the same speed the pump is removing the old water. Use that number (GPM) to calculate the amount of water you're looking to exchange and then add another 10% to be sure the exchange achieved the expectations. It's advisable to not only retard the daily schedule but to actually turn off the circuit breakers so that no unforseen schedule kicks in and ends your water exchange right then and there.

 

[mShark]

Today's test revealed that I was testing TA incorrectly. Performed the test twice and got the same results of TA = 100 rather than 80. My CYA is now at 70 and that was reflected in the FC actually going up a bit during day, when in previous days I was losing FC.

FC = 9
CC = 0
pH = 7.5
TA = 100
CYA = 70

 

[Newdude]

Today's test revealed that I was testing TA incorrectly. Performed the test twice and got the same results of TA = 100 rather than 80.

Ok. I just checked and the price of beer remained unchanged. PHEW. Dodged a bullet there. As far as your TA goes, we call it 100 now going forward.

It'll settle to wherever it wants to be as you ignore it and manage the Ph to be in the 7s.