Don't know how it worked out for the original poster -- would also like an update.
For my daughters, braids are the trick.
For my daughters, braids are the trick.
My daughters don't want to use our pool-Tangles!
- Thread starter guisandov
- Start date
I'll grant that there are some things that can be done to lessen the problems overall, but since this was a case of a vast difference between OP's pool and any others that they had experienced, there seems to be something in particular with that pool. I'm sure that the chems not in line with targets is the cause, but naturally, I'm curious as to the outcome.
Hi,
Sorry for delayed response but after my TF-100 results of June 18th I thought my only option was to drain and refill:
6/18/2010 TF-100 test kit results:
FC-23
CC-0
TC-23
pH-7.4
TA-250
CH-500
CYA->>100!
I am pretty sure the above values are the reason for my girls' tangles. Well with vacation and work it took me awhile drain and refill. I finally did it a couple days ago. A complete drain and refill, that is.
Well, here are my new numbers via the TF-100:
FC-0
CC-0
TC-0
pH-7.8
TA-220-230(yes I did wipe tip in between drops and I also repeated)
CH-120
CYA-not tested
My source(and majority of refill) water is well water but I replace evaporated water with water softener water. Yes I have added chlorine but obviously not enough and trying to not add too much CYA again!
Sorry for delayed response but after my TF-100 results of June 18th I thought my only option was to drain and refill:
6/18/2010 TF-100 test kit results:
FC-23
CC-0
TC-23
pH-7.4
TA-250
CH-500
CYA->>100!
I am pretty sure the above values are the reason for my girls' tangles. Well with vacation and work it took me awhile drain and refill. I finally did it a couple days ago. A complete drain and refill, that is.
Well, here are my new numbers via the TF-100:
FC-0
CC-0
TC-0
pH-7.8
TA-220-230(yes I did wipe tip in between drops and I also repeated)
CH-120
CYA-not tested
My source(and majority of refill) water is well water but I replace evaporated water with water softener water. Yes I have added chlorine but obviously not enough and trying to not add too much CYA again!
A complete drain and refill will leave you with no CYA and so any chlorine you put into the pool will be gone rapidly, in a matter of hours. You need to get the CYA added to get to about 30ppm, and also get your FC up to 4 and holding above 2 at all times.
So what do I do first to balance my water?
TF-100 results post total drain/refill:
FC-0
CC-0
TC-0
pH-7.8
TA-220-230(yes I did wipe R-0009 tip in between drops and I also repeated)
CH-120
CYA-not tested
My source(and majority of refill) water is well water but I replace evaporated water with water softener water.
Do I address my CYA and chlorine levels first? I'm confused about adding CYA. I thought the only way to add was via dichloro- or tirchloro-containing "shock" or tablets but just became aware that cyanuric acid for pools is available. I haven't seen it locally but really haven't looked specifically.
Do I correct my TA, pH, or CH first, or at all?
Thanks.
TF-100 results post total drain/refill:
FC-0
CC-0
TC-0
pH-7.8
TA-220-230(yes I did wipe R-0009 tip in between drops and I also repeated)
CH-120
CYA-not tested
My source(and majority of refill) water is well water but I replace evaporated water with water softener water.
Do I address my CYA and chlorine levels first? I'm confused about adding CYA. I thought the only way to add was via dichloro- or tirchloro-containing "shock" or tablets but just became aware that cyanuric acid for pools is available. I haven't seen it locally but really haven't looked specifically.
Do I correct my TA, pH, or CH first, or at all?
Thanks.
Well, the right answer depends on what you have available. Economical means using what you have, but not if that causes you to waste chlorine.
Let's assume that you begin with the dichlor shock. Using the Pool Calcualtor, I see that each 16 oz will raise CYA by about 2.4 ppm, and FC by 2.7. It will take awhile to get up to CYA 30 and until you get there you will lose most of your chlorine to the sun. Not economical.
Probably better to get to at least 20 ppm CYA all at once with buying some pure stabilizer, or even 30 ppm. 4 lbs of stabliizer will get you to CYA 19, 6 lbs will get to 29 ppm CYA. I don't know what sizes you buy it in, so get something like that. If you got to 20, the used dichlor for just a few days, you'd be up to 30 pretty quick.
Then I'd go to dichlor for awhile, or tablets, probably both at the same time. You can calculate how much of either you want to use. Ten tablets, 70 oz total, of trichlor gives you 12 ppm CYA. 16 oz dichlor gives you 2.4 CYA. Tablets in the feeder or floater, then dichlor broadcasting as needed to get FC on target every day or two.
The idea is to keep a running total of the CYA you have added by whatever means, but first get it to that minimum level. Then use whatever is handy to keep FC on target, and keep that total of CYA in your records.
When you calculate that you are where you want to stay, that may be CYA = 30, 40, or 50, depending on your location, sun, heat, then you switch to bleach. The dichlor and the tablets will keep a long time and you can use them when CYA is on the low side. CYA will decline a little with time, as well as with rain overflow and splashout. So you will need more eventually.
I change my chlorine source as the year goes on, depending on what is going on. Early in the season when CYA is low and CH is low, I use both tablets and cal-hypo, in big enough buckets both are economical. I keep CYA low enough that when I go on a 2 week trip I can load up the feeder twice and not worry that it will overdose the pool. Once CYA is on target, by the heat of the summer, I am back to bleach only.
Let's assume that you begin with the dichlor shock. Using the Pool Calcualtor, I see that each 16 oz will raise CYA by about 2.4 ppm, and FC by 2.7. It will take awhile to get up to CYA 30 and until you get there you will lose most of your chlorine to the sun. Not economical.
Probably better to get to at least 20 ppm CYA all at once with buying some pure stabilizer, or even 30 ppm. 4 lbs of stabliizer will get you to CYA 19, 6 lbs will get to 29 ppm CYA. I don't know what sizes you buy it in, so get something like that. If you got to 20, the used dichlor for just a few days, you'd be up to 30 pretty quick.
Then I'd go to dichlor for awhile, or tablets, probably both at the same time. You can calculate how much of either you want to use. Ten tablets, 70 oz total, of trichlor gives you 12 ppm CYA. 16 oz dichlor gives you 2.4 CYA. Tablets in the feeder or floater, then dichlor broadcasting as needed to get FC on target every day or two.
The idea is to keep a running total of the CYA you have added by whatever means, but first get it to that minimum level. Then use whatever is handy to keep FC on target, and keep that total of CYA in your records.
When you calculate that you are where you want to stay, that may be CYA = 30, 40, or 50, depending on your location, sun, heat, then you switch to bleach. The dichlor and the tablets will keep a long time and you can use them when CYA is on the low side. CYA will decline a little with time, as well as with rain overflow and splashout. So you will need more eventually.
I change my chlorine source as the year goes on, depending on what is going on. Early in the season when CYA is low and CH is low, I use both tablets and cal-hypo, in big enough buckets both are economical. I keep CYA low enough that when I go on a 2 week trip I can load up the feeder twice and not worry that it will overdose the pool. Once CYA is on target, by the heat of the summer, I am back to bleach only.
(Sorry anonapersona! I was editing my previous post while you were answering it.)
My understanding of CYA is 100-fold better after reading your post!
Thank you very much.
My understanding of CYA is 100-fold better after reading your post!
Thank you very much.
With your TA level, the PH may creep up. Using Dichlor and Trichlor will help keep these in check and drift lower - but monitor PH daily and if it ever creeps up above 7.8 I recommend you lower it down to 7.4 with Muratic Acid.
One thing I'm not recalling if we have addressed is the use of well water. Do you have any test info on that well water that tells us if it is clear of metals?
Both copper and iron can cause stains in pools. Your local pool store may be able to test for metals for you. Some products are better than others from preventing stains, check back with water info before you buy anything. I don't know much about metals but there are lots of folks here that can help with that.
Both copper and iron can cause stains in pools. Your local pool store may be able to test for metals for you. Some products are better than others from preventing stains, check back with water info before you buy anything. I don't know much about metals but there are lots of folks here that can help with that.
I am trying to figure out how much CYA to add without overshooting. The pool calculator(at bottom of page) calculates how much dichlor will affect CYA. When I enter the weight of dichlor do I adjust weight based on percentage of dichlor on label. So I have a one pound bag of 58.2% dichlor "pool shock", do I enter 16 ounces or 9.3 ounces?