Mustard algae?

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I am not able to collect it, it puffs into a cloud, the finest cloud, almost disappearing when I barely touch it

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It looks like a tan/khaki color

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http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/13559-What-IS-this

It reminds me of this photo, in rifts just like that

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Also, tonight when I do the OCLT correctly, do I count my water as clear even if there is some of that stuff around? If I pass the other two criteria, will this pass?
 
Well that does sound like yellow/mustard algae, but you haven't gotten rid of it and it will likely come back and keep growing. The OCLT is not passed if there is any visible algae still present.

There are special procedures to eradicate yellow/mustard algae as described in the Pool School article on Mustard Algae. That includes doing a higher shock level with a 60% FC/CYA level for at least a couple of days after a regular SLAM (at 40% FC/CYA level), getting behind light niches, under removable ladders, putting in poles and other equipment used in the pool. However, such a treatment is harsh on a vinyl liner if you have a medium blue color that uses organic dyes.

What was the phosphate remover the pool store gave to you (manufacturer and product name)? How much did you add to your pool?

Also, are you using your own good test kit for your readings, specifically from a TFTestkits TF-100 or Taylor K-2006 test kit? Or did you get the CYA reading of 30 ppm from your pool store?
 
18 ppm FC for 30 ppm CYA would be the yellow/mustard algae shock level shown in this chart. The regular shock level for 30 ppm CYA is 12 ppm FC as shown in that same chart and in this chart.

If you want to swim and deal with the algae later, than let the FC get below 12 ppm. Note that when you do go back to a SLAM you need to regularly brush your pool. You want to get that algae swept up into the bulk pool water so it gets exposed to the chlorine that can kill it. I would also consider Adding DE to Your Sand Filter so that it can filter out this algae so you can backwash it to get it out of the pool (unless you find that you can vacuum-to-waste to effectively remove it).
 
chem geek said:
18 ppm FC for 30 ppm CYA would be the yellow/mustard algae shock level shown in this chart. The regular shock level for 30 ppm CYA is 12 ppm FC as shown in that same chart and in this chart.

If you want to swim and deal with the algae later, than let the FC get below 12 ppm. Note that when you do go back to a SLAM you need to regularly brush your pool. You want to get that algae swept up into the bulk pool water so it gets exposed to the chlorine that can kill it. I would also consider Adding DE to Your Sand Filter so that it can filter out this algae so you can backwash it to get it out of the pool (unless you find that you can vacuum-to-waste to effectively remove it).
Click to expand...

Thanks so much. We went to clean our sand filter a month or so ago and realized the way it was set up we would need to cut and replace the PVC, and we just haven't had time/been able to. We just tested at 10.5, so we went swimming a little and then brought it up to 18 for Mustard shock.

Unfortunately, my husband backwashed, forgot to rinse, and clouds of brown came into the pool. Thankfully just for a second- but its cloudy now. Im sure it will clear- just meh. I feel much more positive since we got to swim today.. I tend to be the voice of doom
 

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I really think you should try a skimmer sock to make sure this isn't some sort of debris (pollen, dirt, or otherwise) getting into the pool. This just doesn't sound right. You also added a phosphate remover which while not normally needed should have made a dent in algae growth unless the phosphate levels were much higher than what the product removed.
 
Just an update. Cc was user error as it tested at barely .5 a few hours later. No more stuff in the pool in the mornings! Pool looks amazing, swg working perfectly, still waiting on levels to drift down so I can figure out what output to run the swg at. Currently run the pump 4 hours per day


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