Most efficient aerator pump and valve settings.

rhawke

Bronze Supporter
Nov 27, 2017
261
Houston, TX
We just got a new pool and have aerators on a valve with an actuator that we use to cool down the pool (see pool pad diagram below) I noticed that with the 1600 rpm setting I have on the pump 24 hours a day (which puts out 25 gpm) when opening the aerators they only spray maybe 1 foot into the pool. If I close the manual valve of the pool return, they spray about 2/3 of the width of the pool while using barely any energy (approx 200 watts and pump now reads 11 gpm with this restriction).

So I have a few ideas, please let me know which one you like best:

1) I still have Actuator B on my easy touch available. I can get an actuator for the main return and set it at 100 % open (pos A) and 20 % open (pos B). I would then create a new circuit called "Aerator Strong" that can be activated in addition to the "Aerator". I would even prefer to do 0 % open, but I figured the risk of by mistake both the aerator and the main return closing would be too high and so the 20 % open would ensure the return side can never be closed off completely. Would it be ok to run a pump with that much restriction?

2) I ask the pool builder to rebuild the aerator and return valve to be a 3 way valve. That would require a bit of spaghetti plumbing though because right now they are in one horizontal line with separate valves as they branch down into the ground. (see plumbing pad diagram below). That way I could go from 100 % pool returns to 100 % aerators without the risk of closing off all returns by mistake (and I would not have to keep the 20 % "insurance"). Here the main question is whether it would be ok for the pump to run the aerator as the only return to the pool for a while (this is what I already did manually and I got the 11 gpm at 1600 rpm)

3) I could also just keep the sad 1ft spray of the aerator and run the circuit longer at night (e.g. 10 hours) but I'm not sure if this will cool as much as running it for 4-5 hours with the strong pressure spray? When the water sprays 6-8 ft out intuitively I would think the more air time it gets, the more it cools?

4) I can increase the pump speed of the Aerator circuit to e.g. 2500 rpm. This is still not as strong as pushing all the water through the aerator at 1600rpm while using approx 1000 watts (5 times more energy). Therefore, I would like to avoid this option if possible.

I also believe to have read somewhere that the Intelliflow VST is smart enough to turn off before it would ever run with too heavy restrictions?

Pool Plumbing Pad.jpg
 
Just to be clear...your “water feature” return is your aerator?

I like your #2 option the best...a picture might give some of the pros on this forum an idea as to whether it would be a relatively “easy” fix or not.

I am a newbie to automation but I also think it would be viable to put an actuator on your “water feature aerator” and just hook it up opposite to the “pool return” actuator (one always closed and one 100% open) but...I don’t know if your concern about a valve failing and both possibly remaining closed (pump has nowhere to pump) makes this a NOT-DO option?
 
Just to be clear...your “water feature” return is your aerator?

I like your #2 option the best...a picture might give some of the pros on this forum an idea as to whether it would be a relatively “easy” fix or not.

I am a newbie to automation but I also think it would be viable to put an actuator on your “water feature aerator” and just hook it up opposite to the “pool return” actuator (one always closed and one 100% open) but...I don’t know if your concern about a valve failing and both possibly remaining closed (pump has nowhere to pump) makes this a NOT-DO option?
Yes the water feature is the aerator heads. I will post some pictures of the actual plumbing tonight. It matches the plumbing diagram exactly
 
I noticed that with the 1600 rpm setting I have on the pump 24 hours a day (which puts out 25 gpm) when opening the aerators they only spray maybe 1 foot into the pool. If I close the manual valve of the pool return, they spray about 2/3 of the width of the pool while using barely any energy (approx 200 watts and pump now reads 11 gpm with this restriction).

This statement is what concerns me. You can see by closing off the returns and using only the aerators, it causes a significant amount of back pressure at the pump. IMHO you would be better off running your pump at a higher rpm, say 22-2400rpm’s, and keeping both the returns and the aerators going. Also, you need to have both going to keep water swirling about, to mix up the cooled water with the warmer water.
Keep in mind though, that your PH is going to climb rapidly the more you aerate. So you’ll need to fiddle faddle around with run times etc, to keep everything in balance. And keep plenty of MA on hand. :cheers:
 
This statement is what concerns me. You can see by closing off the returns and using only the aerators, it causes a significant amount of back pressure at the pump. IMHO you would be better off running your pump at a higher rpm, say 22-2400rpm’s, and keeping both the returns and the aerators going. Also, you need to have both going to keep water swirling about, to mix up the cooled water with the warmer water.
Keep in mind though, that your PH is going to climb rapidly the more you aerate. So you’ll need to fiddle faddle around with run times etc, to keep everything in balance. And keep plenty of MA on hand. :cheers:


Thanks, I didn't think about the mixing of the water, so I guess I really shouldn't close of the main return. So the main question would be if I should still close off the main return partially still to get more water through the aerators. I just love getting the energy efficiency out of the pump and running it at 2500 rpm to get a decent spray all night long just feels so wrong. If I run the aerators for 8 hours at 1000 watt vs at 250 watt each night that doubles the total pump energy cost from $16 per month to $32 per month.

We have been unusually lucky the last week here in Houston. The pool has been between 85 and 88 degrees which is amazing for this time of the year (in July it was already at 94), therefore I haven't had a need/chance to run the aerators yet and play around with these configurations. I'm sure we will hit the 92-93 water temp at some point before September though ...
 
First one is suction second one is return

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Hawke, whoever did the plumbing job, did a nice neat job. However, it’s going to be a nightmare to change out a valve or deal with a leak on your suction side plumbing as there is no extra pipe at all. Plan on a complete rebuild of the entire manifold on the suction side in the future.
Just a tip. Label up everything including flow direction, that way anyone can step in and know what’s what. :cheers:
 
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