Maintaining a Constant - or the attempt to......

[John_and_Val]

So.........to give a little background - Pool had water go in it for the 1st time on Memorial Day last year. I live in South Florida, so pool temps are typically mid to high 80's already. Last year in Aug through October I remember some 90's....(i do have a heat pump/chiller to help keep it in the high 80's during those hot times). Pool got as low as 70 during cold fronts.
All last summer, I battled a multitude of problems:
1 - Algae
2 - Algae
3 - Algae
Now, I knew I needed to SLAM and I did multiple times, but as soon as my Free Chlorine got to around 7, I would start forming green algae on the shallow ends and sun deck (brushing would push up green "dust"). Couple of things I decided....the always HOT down here, and the "finish" i have (lots of nooks and cranys) attribute to the excessive algae. Not sure if true or not......

Also, I went through cases and cases of muriatic acid to keep pH down. I just attributed it to the new Pebble Tec Brillance Pool Finish driving it up. Also, I know an SWG will raise it also. And as i was treating the pH constantly, I thought I needed to maintain my Total Alkalinity also (as it was always dropping).
So for almost a year, I tried to maintain a constant - as follows:
FC - anywhere from 30 to 6 (depending before, after, or during SLAM
CC - 0 to .25 (1 drop to remove pink)
TA - I maintained anywhere from 80 - 110 utilizing Sodium Bicarb
CH - 300 - 350 with little to no intervention
CYA - 60 - 80 with some addition of stabilizer (not a lot)
Salt - Constant at 3800

So - like I said, I was constantly battling the pH and TA. I was pretty much adding almost 1/4 gallon of muriatic every day to drop a almost 8.0 to 7.4
I was also adding a bunch of Sodium Bicarb about once a week to maintain a 80 - 110

To be continued in a seperate post so you can digest..................

 

[John_and_Val]

About a month ago, I decided to change it up after researching. First off I know any additives are taboo here - but I added a product called Algaetec (34 oz). This stuff works great - it has no metals - bromides - or quats. Also has a clarifier in it. After 24 Hours, Pool looked the best it has ever looked in a year. I hit the pool with another 12 oz the other day and i think i will maintain a 12 oz maintenance dose once a month.
Since I added it - no algae
But, I all fairness, I am still experimenting and tinkering with a lot of things.....
1st - the SWG (as of now, I am running at 40%, with pump on 24/7) maintaining a FC of around 10 and 0 CC. Too High????
2nd - I decided to let my TA fall where it may ( I believe the yo-yo affect was happening with me trying to raise TA.....Lower pH over and over). Since last week I have not added any Sodium Bicarb...my TA has fallen to 40 BUT my pH has been Rock Steady at around 7.5 with 1 cup of MA every other day!!!!!!!

Sooooooo......Comments, Questions, Concerns Please!!!!
Do I keep the low TA or raise it
Do I keep dumping tons of MA in pool
Do I lower my FC or keep at current level.

Everything is in my signature if needed.

 

[John_and_Val]

Oh and all tests are with Taylor and speed stir

 

[JoyfulNoise]

You need to stop trying to maintain your pH so low and your TA so high as that is the cause of your excessive acid use. Maintain your TA between 50-60ppm and only drop your pH when it rises to 7.9. Then, when you target pH, only lowered it to 7.6. You can also add borates to 50ppm to help slow the pH rise.

Your surface has very little to do with your algae issues. It is likely your FC is dropping to a low value and then water stagnation is allowing algae to deplete the FC locally and grow.

The algaecide you are adding is just a watered down version of polyquat-60 (the AlgaeTec is 30% solution which is about half the strength of what other manufacturers will sell you). And yes, it is a quat, just not a linear quat.

Some things you need to post to get better advice - what is your fill water chemistry (pH, TA & CH). Also, I’d like to know what the phosphate level is in your pool as well as if your water supplier is using phosphates for metal control

 

[John_and_Val]

I know pH is off the chart........ >8.0 (from me testing it) The city says it is approx. 8.8 ppm!

Phosphates are at 0 (AquaCheck - one minute test kit) and they say they do not use any
TA from my testing is 40 ppm - City says 63.91 ppm
CH from my testing is 20 ppm - City says 8.2 ppm

 

[JoyfulNoise]

How deep are the sitting area and sun shelf in your pool?

Have you pulled out the lights from their niches? Are there any covered umbrella sleeves?

 

[John_and_Val]

Lol. funny you asked......2 days ago, just to do a pre - emptive strike ..... i pulled all lights from niches and checked. Also check my 2 umbrella sleeves.........
all squeaky clean

The sun shelf is about 6" inches and the sitting area benches are at 18 inch height and the water in the sitting area is about 3 feet.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

So the sun shelf represents about 500 gallons of water with a depth of 6 inches. That water is so shallow that the chlorine in that area can get easily depleted by intense sun exposure. Are there bubblers, jets, or returns in that area? Does that area get good constant flow of water into it? Can you control or direct water flow into that area?

 

[John_and_Val]

Circulation is good in pool. I have 5 returns and when the wind is blowing I literally have a pile of dirt sitting in one neat pile by the sitting area. in the sitting area there is a return and there is also 6 spa jets.
I cycle the pool as such:
8 am - 8 am 80% Returns and 20% Spa jets at 1000 rpm
9 am - 10 am I skim the east skimmer only at 2000 rpm
11 am - 12 pm 80% spa jets and 20% returns at 3000 rpm
12:30 pm - 2 pm Main drain only at 2000 rpm
2:30 pm - 3 pm 2000 rpm through the heaters
4pm - 5pm West Skimmer only at 2000 rpm
6pm - 7pm 80% spa jets and 20% returns at 3000 rpm

My build is on this site if interested in viewing

 

[John_and_Val]

There is 1 return on the sun shelf that moves the water in that area. I also have 2 bubblers that do get run often ( i know the water features are part of the pH problem). But i adjust my dosages for their use.

 

[John_and_Val]

I do notice a change in temperature from the 3 1/2' depth near the steps and the sun shelf.....sun shelf is warmer as is sitting area

 

[John_and_Val]

So I have been maintaining FC at about 10 and a CYA around 70. I am just scared to lower FC due to earlier episodes of algae. The pool currently is crystal clear.....
I will be maintaing TA at 50 and only dose Ph when it is around 7.8 - 8.0....then I will drop it down to around 7.6
Pool is already 88 degrees - and I get BLASTED with sun from 10 AM to 6 PM................