Main basket not filling with water

On full speed, how much does the filter pressure change from post backwash to basket filling with air?

If the pump basket fills after backwash but gains air over time and full speed no longer clears it, there could be two things going on. An air leak and algae bloom.

But to answer the question, larger pumps produce more flow rate so it is easier to prime. However, a larger pump can also produce more suction head so more inclined to leak air. But it is a VS pump so none of that matters since you have full control over the "size" of the pump via RPM.
 
So frustrating because I get 18 different answers from 18 different people or companies. Never know who to believe or listen to because nothing anyone says fixes the problem.
 
"71", before you run out back and beat your head against the wall :brickwall:, here's what I would recommend. Run an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test this evening. Let's first be 100% sure the chemistry is not playing a factor in your water flow. Your Poolmath log shows an FC of only 2 ppm earlier today and that's a big red flag. We already know that backwashing temporarily clears the issue which is another red flag - sign of organics. So rather than getting too much more ahead of ourselves, do the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test this evening if you can. For this evening, pump that FC back up to 8-10 though and get a good bedtime FC reading then compare it to tomorrow. Report back with those results so we all feel more confident chasing the mechanical route once we know chemically the pool is clear and not effecting the pump pot.
 
On full speed, how much does the filter pressure change from post backwash to basket filling with air?

If the pump basket fills after backwash but gains air over time and full speed no longer clears it, there could be two things going on. An air leak and algae bloom.

But to answer the question, larger pumps produce more flow rate so it is easier to prime. However, a larger pump can also produce more suction head so more inclined to leak air. But it is a VS pump so none of that matters since you have full control over the "size" of the pump via RPM.
Not sure the difference in pressure. I'd have to test that to know for sure.
"71", before you run out back and beat your head against the wall :brickwall:, here's what I would recommend. Run an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test this evening. Let's first be 100% sure the chemistry is not playing a factor in your water flow. Your Poolmath log shows an FC of only 2 ppm earlier today and that's a big red flag. We already know that backwashing temporarily clears the issue which is another red flag - sign of organics. So rather than getting too much more ahead of ourselves, do the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test this evening if you can. For this evening, pump that FC back up to 8-10 though and get a good bedtime FC reading then compare it to tomorrow. Report back with those results so we all feel more confident chasing the mechanical route once we know chemically the pool is clear and not effecting the pump pot.
I did an overnight FC loss less than a week ago and it was 1.0. I've done a swg production test and it did almost perfect.
 
I did an overnight FC loss less than a week ago and it was 1.0.
Ultimately your call. Times like this we always want to be precise about process of elimination so we aren't chasing our tails.

Curious .... how old is your Jandy sand filter? Curious if the sand is new and/or was deep cleaned recently?
 
1 is a bit high. To me that indicates a water issue.

Backwash the filter, get a pressure reading on high speed, then periodically check on high speed to see if it is climbing. You might want to start a SLAM or at least elevate FC.
 
So today with the pool man
Ultimately your call. Times like this we always want to be precise about process of elimination so we aren't chasing our tails.

Curious .... how old is your Jandy sand filter? Curious if the sand is new and/or was deep cleaned recently?
Pool was installed on finished on 6/25/2020.
 
I can get the pot 100% full if I run at 3450 rpm, both bubblers completely wide open (water shoots about 2 feet in air). If that makes any difference. Got it there today at about 4pm. It's almost 9pm and it's about 95% full.
 
My VS pump does the same thing. I attribute mine to the solar relief valve though at low RPMs. Do you have any solar heating by chance?
 
Let's say there is an algae bloom. How does that effect the pot from not filling up or creating air in the return lines? And wouldn't my water be turning green?
 

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Let's say there is an algae bloom. How does that effect the pot from not filling up or creating air in the return lines? And wouldn't my water be turning green?
Nope. No green, at least not right away. Me personally, even tough I have a pressure gauge, seeing my pump pot level drop is my first sign of a dirty filter. Kind of a back-pressure thing so the pot level drops. But if someone has a fresh algae bloom starting, the organic material is often transparent. You don't see it but the filter feels it.
 
Nope. No green, at least not right away. Me personally, even tough I have a pressure gauge, seeing my pump pot level drop is my first sign of a dirty filter. Kind of a back-pressure thing so the pot level drops. But if someone has a fresh algae bloom starting, the organic material is often transparent. You don't see it but the filter feels it.
That makes perfect sense. But my pot has never filled up from day 1 of them turning pool over to me and has had air in returns on same day. It's been a year old battle. So to me that screams mechanical issue and not water chemistry.
 
my pot has never filled up from day 1 of them turning pool over to me and has had air in returns on same day. It's been a year old battle. So to me that screams mechanical issue and not water chemistry.
You have a valid concern. If this is still under builder warranty, certainly hold their feet to the fire and get it fixed one way or the other. Let us know what finally happens. Curious of the end result.
 
Algae blooms clog filters which reduces flow rates which in turn makes it harder to purge air from the pump basket. Combine that with an air leak and the air will accumulate.
 
Do you have a 3 way valve before the pump? If so, have you tried running the pump with either side closed? I have a similar issue with my pump and normally my 3 way valve is set so only the pool side sucks water and the spa side is closed off. My basket never seems to fill all the way when in pool mode, but when I switch to spa mode, it goes right to the top. I fear that I may have some type of leak under the skimmer which, of course, is under cement and probably an expensive fix. So I kind of just live with it for now. The weird thing is when my 3 minute priming is over and my onboard pump timer takes over and puts the pump at 1200rpms, suddenly my basket is full with a huge bubble against the lid.

I'm also one of those people who set up a 15 minute timer at 2800rpms because my basket would always seem low from running the pump at low speeds all day. I took someone's suggestion and set up one program at 2am and one at 2pm to fill the water level and it seems to be ok now, but when my pump primes at the high speeds, I still have the issue with the low water and also plenty of turbulence inside the lid.
 
I have a brand new jandy epump. When I run at 1600 rpm, it won’t fill. If I run at 2500, it will fill right up. If I go back to 1600 from 2500, it will lose a little water, but not much. It will usually hold that way for a while.
 
I have a Jandy VSP and mine fills up all the way up to the top. If I lube all o-rings in the system, there are no bubbles at all for days. Eventually, I get a medium sized bubble but that's it.

Once I had a similar issue to yours, and it turned out to be the o-ring on the inlet pipe of the pump, so I just lubbed it with magic lube and that addressed the issue.
 
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Had a smaller vsp installed. All bubbles in return lines and sir in main basket all gone. Now to figure out why I'm disipating calcium all over pool. Gonna posting different thread.
 
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