Low TA & High PH that keeps rising no matter what

[planoattorney]

I think I screwed up and I need help. First, converted to BBB method this year and I have been very happy, so maybe this is more a problem in my head:

Second test results via a TF-100 kit and results from pool store (theirs are in parenthesis)

FC = 2.0 (2.0)
CC = 0.0 (0.0)
PH = 8.2 (8.0)
TA = 7.0 (8.0)
CYA = 50 (50)
CH = 325 (_____) I guess they did not test
TDS = _____ (1,600) I don't have this test in the TF-100
Borates are +50
Water is clear and slightly cool - strange summer.

I use 12% liquid chlorine and I discovered 1 and ONLY 1 3" tab (GLB brand) helps me without raising CYA too much. I have raised CYA from 30 to 50 one tab at a time and am very pleased with the results - I got lazy after a few weeks and instead of adding 2 pints of liquid chlorine a night, I add a gallon check in 5 days, if it is down to 2 (such as now, test the water and add another gallon). Right now I have added 2 pints just to raise to sufficient level until I get the TA/PH fixed.

I do not aerate - but I have a way to do so, I can redirect water through he spa and spill-overs that are 30" above the pool. Does aeration raises PH, or does it lower TA, or does it do both?

The pool store said add 13 pounds of Alkalinity Up wait an hour and then add a gallon of Muriatic acid. This just sounded way wrong, so I came home, added the chlorine (2 pints as I said above) waited 10 minutes and for some reason thought if I only lower PH with 1.8 qt of muriatic acid (I used the chart in the test kit to get that number) and then open the valves and aerate through the spa I will cure both problems. So, I added the muriatic acid and before I turned on the pump had this sinking feeling I screwed up. So I came here to get guidance.

What do I do now?
Was my initial thought correct, I lower PH and raise TA with aeration?
Have I made things worse?
Do I just add borates and let it circulate (without aeration) overnight and run another test and come here with new data?

Subsequently, all summer long the PH keeps rising, I guess liquid chlorine causes that. But oddly enough, it climbs to 8.2 and just levels off.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Adding MA will LOWER both pH and TA. Then folks aerate to raise the pH back up again. Aeration raises pH..such as your spill over spa does.

Ignore TDS... we do.

I think you mean to say your TA is currently 70, not 7.0.

Alkalinity Up is just expensive baking soda. Never buy that from a pool store. IF you need it, and you don't, just go to Walmart and buy the large bag of Arm and Hammer Baking Soda from the grocery aisle.

The only thing I see you need to do is lower the pH and get your FC in line with the CYA. See this --> [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]

Maddie

 

[yann]

Hi

I'm fairly new pool owner but I'm going to try to help on this one, and the experts can correct me.

First you are using the best test kit, so why do you go to the pool store to "confirm" your results?
It's been said and proven over thousand of posts here that their testing is unreliable, so trust your own testing.

Second, assuming your CYA is correct, your FC is too low. [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]
Use PoolMath to calculate how much liquid chlorine you need to add to reach a FC of 6-8 (I calculated 89oz, but check your own). You never want your FC to go below 4ppm.
You need to check your FC levels everyday and adjust with LC if needed. Don't get lazy or you'll get a green pool.

Next your pH question.
I am not sure how you got a reading of TA 7.0
Did you mean 70?
You need to make sure this reading is correct. I doubt it since your pH is high. If your TA was really 7, your pH would drop down significantly.
TA value is only a guide, your pH is the important value.
at 8.2, you have maxed up the test (that's why it levels off), so you need to use acid (MA) to reduce your pH to a measurable value, around 7.6-7.8. Again use PoolMath to calculate of much MA is needed (I calculated 14oz).
Once MA is added let the pump run for 30 min or so and test again. Add more MA if needed.

Aeration has no impact on TA, only elevate pH
Muriatic Acid lowers both pH and TA
Liquid Chlorine does not affect pH
Do not add Alkalinity Up until you can confirm your TA
Do not add Borates (50 is the max recommended)

Read through ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry for more info, and the whole Pool School articles.

Otherwise your numbers are good, don't worry about TDS.
Check your CSI value in PoolMath once you entered all your numbers and keep it between -0.6 and 0.6

Since you let your FC drop to 2, I would do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test once you got your FC back to safe levels.

Good luck.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Hi

I'm fairly new pool owner but I'm going to try to help on this one, and the experts can correct me.

.

Spot on, Yann! Excellent advice.

Maddie