As noted, the Cl/Br test ("OTO") is the same as the powder/drop test ("FAS/DPD"). BUT the second can read to much higher levels, and is much more accurate. The first is a quick and dirty "do I have Chlorine", the second is "How much, really?". Most of us never (or hardly ever ) do the first test.
Your CYA is high, but not out of bounds. The PoolMath app will follow the chart below. Just keep your FC number in the 6-12 range. Favoring higher than lower. CYA will decrease very slowly over a longish time (months). Highish levels only a concern to those that have to add liquid Cl. With a SWCG, you just dial it up a little higher than you might with a lower CYA level.
Let your FC drift down below 10, and then test pH to get an accurate number. Only then add acid if needed. The CL reduction is dependent on sunlight, so this time of year may take a couple of days longer than it would in summer to go down.
If using PoolMath, you should turn on "CSI" tracking to keep that value in range for your pool (those of us with vinyl don't usually have to care about corrosivity of the water). Note that it is a complex relationship between all your levels and the water temp. You are in a good spot for that right now. While CH has a stronger effect on that score, since you are good, no need to add any more CH. Areas with hard water from the tap can see their CH go up as they have to add water (CH is another chem that never leaves) so it is good to know what your fill water may be doing over time. Keeping all your numbers in the recommended ranges will tend to keep the CSI reading good, also. But it can be kind of fun to play "what if" games to see what changing one level does to the overall score.
Your CYA is high, but not out of bounds. The PoolMath app will follow the chart below. Just keep your FC number in the 6-12 range. Favoring higher than lower. CYA will decrease very slowly over a longish time (months). Highish levels only a concern to those that have to add liquid Cl. With a SWCG, you just dial it up a little higher than you might with a lower CYA level.
Let your FC drift down below 10, and then test pH to get an accurate number. Only then add acid if needed. The CL reduction is dependent on sunlight, so this time of year may take a couple of days longer than it would in summer to go down.
If using PoolMath, you should turn on "CSI" tracking to keep that value in range for your pool (those of us with vinyl don't usually have to care about corrosivity of the water). Note that it is a complex relationship between all your levels and the water temp. You are in a good spot for that right now. While CH has a stronger effect on that score, since you are good, no need to add any more CH. Areas with hard water from the tap can see their CH go up as they have to add water (CH is another chem that never leaves) so it is good to know what your fill water may be doing over time. Keeping all your numbers in the recommended ranges will tend to keep the CSI reading good, also. But it can be kind of fun to play "what if" games to see what changing one level does to the overall score.
