With the chlorine shortage I have decided it’s time to make the investment and convert. I’ve always hated chlorine pucks and just not a fan of the mineral system my PB recommended. Looking for suggestions on where to add into the system though as I have many returns. I have a pentair intelliconnect so would be looking to go with IC60 unit so that it all connects seamlessly. Do I have the ability to pull water pre-heater and add back into returns manifold as my PB did with the chlorine tower? Assume I cannot pull 3/4 and ha e to tee off of 2”. Was thinking to pull from post filter and pre- hester water, go through swg and then put back into a tee and drop it back into both sides of the return manifold? Thoughts and/or concerns? The section after the hester and before the manifold is all butted right up to each other. Also would need to add a sacrificial anode somewhere?
Looking to add a swg to my setup, need help with design.
- Thread starter ksifenj
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DeanP66
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Could you take a couple of more pics of the equipment pad from different angles. It's difficult to see what all those things are. Is the blue thing the mineral system, how about the black thing coming out of the heater? Also, is that a chlorinator next to the booster pump? It looks like the inlet is on the pipe heading into the heater (blue ball valve), but where does it go back to the pool? Is it that 3/4 pipe running back under the blue thing?
If you go with a SWG, I'd remove that chlorinator entirely. You won't need it and it may free up some valuable room on your equipment pad to space things out better. Same goes with the mineral system. On your return manifold, what is the return that is shut off on the left? It appears like all the other ones may be your pool returns. Could it be a spa, or water feature?
You may even be able to move the filter over to the right corner of the pad if that will help you. You could just cut the pipe coming out of the pump and shorten it and add a coupler. Shouldn't be too hard.
More pics would help us though.
If you go with a SWG, I'd remove that chlorinator entirely. You won't need it and it may free up some valuable room on your equipment pad to space things out better. Same goes with the mineral system. On your return manifold, what is the return that is shut off on the left? It appears like all the other ones may be your pool returns. Could it be a spa, or water feature?
You may even be able to move the filter over to the right corner of the pad if that will help you. You could just cut the pipe coming out of the pump and shorten it and add a coupler. Shouldn't be too hard.
More pics would help us though.
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Yes you are correct with the assumptions. After filter is a mineral feeder, then a tee off to the chlorinator tower which enters back into the manifold through the 3/4” pipe running under everything. After the heater is a tee off for the Polaris booster pump which feeds back over top via 3/4” then into ground on right beside returns manifold. After heater then the Black item is a hydro check valve then 90 into manifold . Far left side of manifold balance goes to water fountains, other main 6 go back to returns.
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DeanP66
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Ok, that helps a lot. I would do the following:
1) I'd definitely move that filter to the right a little to give you more room on the other side. Cut out a small section of pipe on the cross piece coming out of the pump and just add a coupler. Also, make a cut before the mineral (blue) unit and after it so you can slide the pipe coming out of the filter to the right.
2) Get rid of the chlorinator. Cut that T out that goes into the heater and add a coupling, another piece of pipe and another coupling on the other side that goes to the filter.
3) You could then make a cut after the T that goes to the booster pump and add a 90 fitting and send the pipe back toward where the chlorinator is. That will give you a long enough run when you turn it back with 2 90's and return the pipe toward the manifold. That's where I'd put the SWG. You'll have to remove that check valve and probably won't be able to reuse it again because there's not enough pipe sticking out of it to reattach. You could go without one, or put in a new one on the piece of pipe heading to the back of the pad before it turns and comes back. Your choice. Most people on here say that you don't need a check valve with a SWG, but I'm not sure I agree. If both the pump and SWG turn off at the same time, chlorinated water can back track back through the system to your heater and corrode it over time. Maybe if the SWG turns off a bit before the pump, that doesn't happen, but for $40, I'd feel safer with one, especially if that heater is in good shape.
The pipe that returns to the manifold, which will have the SWG connected to it, doesn't have to line up exactly where it does now. You will cut out both T's on the manifold and that will give you room to maybe move that return pipe a little further to the right so you don't have 2 90's so close together for water flow.
You could also consider moving that booster pump somewhere a little closer to the booster return line to the pool so you don't have that long diagonal piece the way it is now. Not necessary, but you may find it more to your liking. That's up to you.
1) I'd definitely move that filter to the right a little to give you more room on the other side. Cut out a small section of pipe on the cross piece coming out of the pump and just add a coupler. Also, make a cut before the mineral (blue) unit and after it so you can slide the pipe coming out of the filter to the right.
2) Get rid of the chlorinator. Cut that T out that goes into the heater and add a coupling, another piece of pipe and another coupling on the other side that goes to the filter.
3) You could then make a cut after the T that goes to the booster pump and add a 90 fitting and send the pipe back toward where the chlorinator is. That will give you a long enough run when you turn it back with 2 90's and return the pipe toward the manifold. That's where I'd put the SWG. You'll have to remove that check valve and probably won't be able to reuse it again because there's not enough pipe sticking out of it to reattach. You could go without one, or put in a new one on the piece of pipe heading to the back of the pad before it turns and comes back. Your choice. Most people on here say that you don't need a check valve with a SWG, but I'm not sure I agree. If both the pump and SWG turn off at the same time, chlorinated water can back track back through the system to your heater and corrode it over time. Maybe if the SWG turns off a bit before the pump, that doesn't happen, but for $40, I'd feel safer with one, especially if that heater is in good shape.
The pipe that returns to the manifold, which will have the SWG connected to it, doesn't have to line up exactly where it does now. You will cut out both T's on the manifold and that will give you room to maybe move that return pipe a little further to the right so you don't have 2 90's so close together for water flow.
You could also consider moving that booster pump somewhere a little closer to the booster return line to the pool so you don't have that long diagonal piece the way it is now. Not necessary, but you may find it more to your liking. That's up to you.
DeanP66
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Dean thanks so much for the ideas. I like it. I was debating if worth leaving puck system as I could just shut down valves for if ever needed it’s right there but is it worth it with drag on flow. Minerals seem like added cost at what value since now salt water softer, will it need even less chlorine produced and give swg even more life? Super simplify the pad if they come out. Lol I always hated the booster return over everything. I def want to add a check valve, everything new in 2020 except the filter. PB just hated swg’s so I didn’t push, now I gotta do it myself but seems pretty straight forward. I just don’t have enough pipe left around either side of that check valve so have to start fresh from heater I think. Even considered going vertical but could t think of a good way there either. This seems like the most straightforward way. Ty for thoughts and time.
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DeanP66
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I definitely like your booster option in your diagram way better than it is now. With that being only 3/4 pipe, if you stumble that will break for sure. Plus it makes it hard to step through the whole setup if you need to. You won't find many folks here that are crazy about mineral systems. They are a waste of money, and they often times will add things like copper to your pool water. That can lead to stains. It's best to avoid them at all costs. I don't see much benefit to keeping that chlorinator other than possibly using it in the offseason when the water temp gets too low for the SWG to operate. However, by then you probably only have to add liquid chlorine every 7 to 10 days cause the sun's UV rays are very mild. Plus, if you use the chlorinator, don't forget, your CYA will continue to climb.
