Liquidator: possible alternative Float valves.

[Dougo]

Some years ago, I built a DIY chlorinator that uses the principle of the 'Liquidator'

I have always had problems with the float valves, because the original Liquidator is not available in Australia, & until now, I have ot found reasonably priced Float valves.
The valves have jammed (over a season) with scale, & the chlorine gradually eats the HDPE valves.

I have now found proper stainless 316 float valves available here:

<http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-4-Valve-Body-Cocky-Valve-/331895750990?hash=item4d4687414e:g:ylAAAOSwhOVXdH-u>

The arms are available separately, & also a 10mm to 5/16 UNC adaptor for other floats (use HDPE or PVC) You need 150mm arms. Also replace the rubber seals with Viton. (they are a rubber disc)

In my installation, I use Silicon rubber lined hose, & have a simple clamp to regulate the flow (DIY from stainless).

I have never found a one-way valve that lasts for the feed line, so my system drains down when the pump stops. (Not an issue as lng as the suction side valve seals).

btw, the way I adjust the flow is by gradually adjusting the regulator clamp over some days, while watching the chlorine level. Once set, it never seems to need adjusting.

My tank is a (new) HDPE waste bin (as in a wheelie bin for rubbish). 120Litre capacity, with the top float valve near the top, & the suction float valve about 300mm (a foot!) down, so the tank easily holds about 40L (9 US Gals?) of chlorine, which lasts about a month. I have a 25mm plastic pipe running to the bottom of the tank to fill the chlorine, which I safely transfer by siphoning (1/2" hose, fill with water, block one end & put the other end in the elevated chlorine container. The blocked end is then uncapped as it is put into the loading pipe that goes to the bottom of the tank. )

I also use a Copper/Silver Ioniser, & keep the Chlorine level at about 1>2 ppm.


This system really works well! Due to equipment failure at the end of last season, my pool went green. Over the next 3 months, it went to black: ie really putrid! At the beginning of this season, after repairing the failure, I checked the water, balanced it up a bit, then ran the pump on recirculate for 2 days after recharging the chlorinator with 15L of chlorine. I used the pole skimmer sock & removed as much muck as I could, & gradually the pool cleared without any more chemicals! I find the sock removes the dead algae quite effectively. Once reasonably clear, I vacuumed, & backwashed the filter, then finished commissioning the pool. (My pool is covered with Shadecloth, so I do not use stabiliser, but suffer chlorine loss during the day. The pool is never in direct sun.) It is always on the cold side though!

When everything is working, my pool never goes green. The only chemicals I use is Liquid chlorine, acid, Calcium salt & buffer. The Ioniser keeps the algae at bay, & everyone comments how soft the water is in my pool. WE use extreme water conservation, because we live on rain water, so must conserve water. I pump excess water to a 1000Gal holding tank when rain overfills the pool, then use it for topping up. Even backwash water is settled, then re-used.

I will put up more info when the new valves arrive & are installed (inc photos).


regards, Doug.

 

[JohnT]

Interesting valves. Have you any data on how long they last?

Running an ionizer doesn't let you safely reduce your FC level. Algae is merely a symptom of insufficient sanitation and an ionizer just treats the symptom. Pool and Spa Safety - Background Information and Frequently Asked Questions

If you are tight on water, the last thing you want to do is add metals to your pool. They will eventually build up to the point they cause problems, and draining is the only way to get rid of them.

 

[Dougo]

John,
I have never found a problem with metal build-up, possibly because our high rainfall flushes enough water from the pool over a few months. My issue is water storage, not water availability. WE have a dry season of 3-4 months which is the biggest problem time. (We only have rainwater available)

I have now fitted the Cocky valves: The lower valve was modified so it is normally closed. Luckily, the pump suction is not high enough to close the shuttle on this valve, so I have not needed to make a positive opening mechanism. On the feed side, I have a standard valve atm, but I will drill the actuator rod so I can fit a stainless spring inside to push the shuttle closed when the pump is off. (that should hopefully keep the pump better primed).

I think these valves being 316 stainless should work well. Time will tell.

I have added some photos of the tank, & the modified arm (that has an extra hole near the knee of the arm). My restrictor on the suction side is merely a stainless clamp on the Silicon hose (which I find better than plastic hose). Adjustment is made by Chlorine measurement, & also chlorine use. (In my case, 15L of chlorine lasts about a week)

On the tank photo, to the left is the feed valve that comes from the outlet side of the pump, then on RHS is the suction side Normally closed (modified arm) valve. The open ended tube( that goes to the bottom of the tank) is the pipe where the chlorine is added. I have found the safest way to transfer chlorine is to siphon it: I put the chlorine container elevated above the tank, then prime my siphon tube with water, close off the outlet end, put the other end in the Chlorine container, then release the stopped end at a point lower than the container so gravity sucks the chlorine through (of course putting the hose into the pipe that goes to the botto of the tank!)

The tank I used is an HDPE garbage container, 120L (of course purchased new!)