Likely mustard algea but not dispersing - SLAM UPDATES

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M

Mandela

0
Oct 30, 2018
58
Tampa
New pool, no experience and had a SWG cell failure which I didn't recognize in time. This was brought to my attention when I took my water to be tested and was told I had no chlorine. Stupidly I said "well, it's a salt water pool so why would there be chlorine in it?".

Anyway, I've learned a few things since and have ordered a test kit which should arrive early this week. I've also ordered the parts for the SWG.

In the meantime I was given some helpful advice to add bleach to the pool so I've been doing that and retested (results below). However, the pool is still yellow. I think this is because I had my skimmer/drain and vacuum valves set wrongly, which I've hopefully rectified. I've tried to update my sig but was given no documentation on the pool so I'm kinda fumbling around trying to piece it together.

I've been brushing daily (upon brushing the yellow algae fluffs away but just settles elsewhere).

I should add that I had literally just added a gallon of bleach prior to taking the water sample, when i should've waited a while.

d9zjo.jpg


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Is there anything else I can do in prior to my test kit and parts arriving? I have familiy visiting and would like the pool to be sorted.

I'm hoping those valves are set correctly now. The skimmer (left) was in the same position as the cleaner (middle) which i didn't move and the drain (right) was vertical (handle part to the bottom).
 
Re: Likely mustard algea but not dispersing

Unfortunately there's not much you can do at this point except add a moderate amount of bleach to the pool once or twice a day until the kit arrives. But getting the correct test kit is the first start. Which kit did you order? TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C? Make sure to add it to your signature as well. :wink: To start removing algae, you'll want to follow the SLAM Process page once your kit arrives. But post your water result for us with the new kit and we'll guide you through it. For now, add a gallon each day (regular bleach). No need to add more or guess at this point. Let us know when the kit arrives and we'll help you from there.

- - - Updated - - -

For your valves, they all appear to be open or slightly open. If you want to close one (i.e. the vacuum line), turn the handle so it's up & down. That should close it off. You can have someone watching or at the pool feeling the water flow as you change the handle position.
 
Re: Likely mustard algea but not dispersing

Thanks, Texas.

It was the TF100 kit I ordered. Read on here it was the best one.

I also stocked up on 10% liquid chlorine, 14 gallons.

Would it be stupid to just dump 4 or 5 gallons in tonight? Surely that'd bring it up to shock level. Then add a a few more each day until the kit arrives. Just to get a head start on the process.

Or is that a ridiculous idea?
 
Re: Likely mustard algea but not dispersing

I can understand the temptation, but I'd wait. A gallon for now is enough. Everything hinges on your first CYA test when the kit arrives. CYA too high you know you need to exchange water. Too low and you need to add, so that will be key. Use this to help once you're ready to do your first CYA test:
CYA Testing:
Proper lighting is critical for the CYA test, so you want to test for CYA outside on a bright sunny day. Taylor recommends standing outside with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body. Use the mixing bottle to combine/gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Then, while holding the skinny tube with the black dot at waist level, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. If it helps, pour a little, look away, then look back and pour some more. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. After the first test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate the CYA reading. If you are still questioning your own results, have a friend or two do the same test 2-3 times. Share your results only after everyone is done to see if you came up with the same average results.
Click to expand...
 
Re: Likely mustard algea but not dispersing: SLAM UPDATE

My kit arrived on Sunday afterall and the slam has been going pretty well but the one issue I have is with water clarity. I'm not sure how to determine this...the pool looks clear but at night when i put the light on there's definitely still stuff in there...but is there always stuff in there? Can I consider it clear yet or do i persist with the SLAM.

Sunday
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Monday

Tuesday
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Wednesday
i53txt.jpg


I don't see much difference between yesterday and today although I had been leaving 24 hours between pics but there's only 12 hours between the Tue/Wed pics.
 
Re: Likely mustard algea but not dispersing

Also, you can see stains on the bottom of the Tuesday pic but they're not the issue I've been dealing with They were there when I got the house and are for another thread, I think :(
 
Re: Likely mustard algea but not dispersing

I'm at a disadvantage at work right now. My server won't let me see your pics. But before we get to that, you are still in SLAM mode correct? Can you confirm your SLAM numbers for us (CYA and FC)? Also, did you lower the pH to about 7.2 before starting the SLAM? Just want to confirm those since you just got the kit.

As for the SLAM Process itself, water clarity can be one of the final steps to see resolved, and a lot depends on the filtration. But there's also the consideration of passing the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test, which is one of the 3 required passing elements for a SLAM. Have you done the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test yet? If not, I would maintain the SLAM levels according to the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] and press-on with the SLAM. If you stop too soon, the algae will simply return.
 
Re: Likely mustard algea but not dispersing

JamesW said:
You should clean the filter and make sure that it's in good shape.
Click to expand...
Thanks James but I've cleaned my filter every day since Sunday. Last night it ran pretty clear from the outset. Certainly nothing like what was coming out it on Sunday and Monday.

When I brush I'm really not seeing anything dispersing anymore, also ran the vacuum for a couple of hours each night, having learned to split the power ratios properly in another thread.

It's just at night with the light on it looks...vaguely murky.

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Texas Splash said:
I'm at a disadvantage at work right now. My server won't let me see your pics. But before we get to that, you are still in SLAM mode correct? Can you confirm your SLAM numbers for us (CYA and FC)? Also, did you lower the pH to about 7.2 before starting the SLAM? Just want to confirm those since you just got the kit.

As for the SLAM Process itself, water clarity can be one of the final steps to see resolved, and a lot depends on the filtration. But there's also the consideration of passing the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test, which is one of the 3 required passing elements for a SLAM. Have you done the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test yet? If not, I would maintain the SLAM levels according to the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] and press-on with the SLAM. If you stop too soon, the algae will simply return.
Click to expand...
I'm at work myself so can't post up to date number. I haven't ran the OCLT as I'm not convinced I've passed the clarity test yet so didn't see the point. I have maintained SLAM levels though - better safe than sorry has been my approach.

When i tested the PH it was 7.9 and I brought it down to 7.3. I ran out of MA at that point. it was raining too so I thought 7.3 was close enough. Does high PH compromise the SLAM process?
 
Re: Likely mustard algea but not dispersing

If you lowered the pH to 7.3 before starting the SAM, you're good. It's best you stay on the same course as you've been doing until you pass the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. If the water clarity is still an issue after passing the OCLT, we can readdress everything at that point. Hang in there. This is the part of a SLAM that is the most difficult - patience.
 

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Re: Likely mustard algea but not dispersing: SLAM UPDATE

Thanks, Texas.

The shallow end and jacuzzi look crystal clear to me but the deep end still seems a bit cloudy. I'm just not sure if that's just natural when looking through deeper water. I'll run the OCLA tonight and maybe that will give me piece of mind...will also post up to date numbers when i get home.

- - - Updated - - -

In a weird way I'm glad I've had these issues as I feel like I've learned so much over the past week and I'm definitely more confident now. I know when I get this back to normal I'll be able to keep it that way and it's actually pretty enjoyable and gives you a sense of achievement.

EDIT: I will not miss brushing the pool multiple times a day though.
 
Cloudiness is never natural. I can see the grain in the plaster on the bottom of my 5.5ft deep end.

Sounds like you're still getting the residual dead (and possibly live) algae out of the water. You never mentioned if you'd passed the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test that I saw?
 
Sorry, forgot to update. The pool water is perfect now. When I was trying to determine if it was clear...it wasn't. Now that it is clear it's obvious. Lesson to fellow n00bs: when it's clear you'll know.

There is a lot of staining on the plaster though. The stains were there before the algae problems so not related. With all the brushing I've done they've not budged so I need to identify what the stains are so that I can treat them. I'm struggling to identify them though.
 
Glad to hear the water is good now. As for the remaining staining, try the following:
- Vitamin C tabs crushed into a thin sock or nylon - iron
- If the Vitamin C makes the stains worse = copper; try dry acid in a sock
- Chlorine tablet = organic (elevated FC for a while, lots of brushing, and patience).

Good luck!
 
YippeeSkippy said:
please don't take the pH down to 6.8. That is far too low and acidic! Try a pH of 7.2 if you want to work in that direction.

Maddie :flower:
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7.2 isn't acidic though so I don't see how it was break down the calcium, assuming that's what this is.

What's your concern with going to 6.8? I wouldn't be going in the pool so no danger to myself. Is it likely to damage the pool surface and pump/plumbing/equipment?

This issue really detracts from the look of the pool...although I have bigger issues to contend with currently so this problem has taken a back seat
 
What's your concern with going to 6.8?
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Unlike a pool with a heater, you may not have an immediate issue with the pH that low. But in time, if your CSI (calcium saturation index) is too low, it can impact the plaster more than just trying to effect suspected calcium staining. If you're not sure what I'm speaking of, take a peek at our Pool School - Calcium Saturation Index (CSI)) page. A slightly negative CSI is okay for some, but if the pH, combined with TA and CH, is too low, the CSI can become a concern. So make sure to use the PoolMath tool to monitor your numbers. Since pH has the most dramatic effect on CSI, you can really swing the CSI scale with a low pH. Also remember that even if someone is trying to make the water more corrosive to remove calcium, it may not work uniformly as the acidic water will attack everything, not just the stains.
 
Texas Splash said:
Unlike a pool with a heater, you may not have an immediate issue with the pH that low. But in time, if your CSI (calcium saturation index) is too low, it can impact the plaster more than just trying to effect suspected calcium staining. If you're not sure what I'm speaking of, take a peek at our Pool School - Calcium Saturation Index (CSI)) page. A slightly negative CSI is okay for some, but if the pH, combined with TA and CH, is too low, the CSI can become a concern. So make sure to use the PoolMath tool to monitor your numbers. Since pH has the most dramatic effect on CSI, you can really swing the CSI scale with a low pH. Also remember that even if someone is trying to make the water more corrosive to remove calcium, it may not work uniformly as the acidic water will attack everything, not just the stains.
Click to expand...

Thanks, man.

Not even something I had known about, never mind taken into consideration.
 
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