Leveling ground

elroyortiz

New member
Aug 4, 2019
2
17042
I just started installing this pool and I'm frustrated. I bought a 22ft by 52 in colman pool. I used a sod cutter for the grass and than I started with the pavers. I started a the lowest point and when I got to the last paver I couldn't get it level with my starting paver. I would have to put 3 pavers on top of each other for it to be level but than it throws everything else off. If anyone could point me into the right direction in leveling please do. Thank you
 
The area needs to be level all the way across before laying pavers. I believe that is why most dig out, then put a layer of sand, which can then be leveled easier than dirt / sod.

Are the pavers all the way across the pool or just for the legs?

I would go back to square one. Find a straight edge of some kind, 2x4 or 2x6 maybe. Lay it on first paver, skip 2 or 3 pavers if you can to lay the other end on. Use level to set paver. Then lay 2x on the last you leveled and skip across again, leveling it. Once you are all the way around and level to first paver, again use the 2x4 to fill in the pavers.

Or buy a long level, 8' or so would be the truest. Hard to find a straight 2.4 anymore. Possibly a long length of angle iron.

Laser level possibly.

Search water level on the internet where you use a small tube and fill with water.

Good luck! Probably a total redo. I have been there on a few do it myself things too!

Or contractor.
 
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The area needs to be level all the way across before laying pavers. I believe that is why most dig out, then put a layer of sand, which can then be leveled easier than dirt / sod.

Are the pavers all the way across the pool or just for the legs?

I would go back to square one. Find a straight edge of some kind, 2x4 or 2x6 maybe. Lay it on first paver, skip 2 or 3 pavers if you can to lay the other end on. Use level to set paver. Then lay 2x on the last you leveled and skip across again, leveling it. Once you are all the way around and level to first paver, again use the 2x4 to fill in the pavers.

Or buy a long level, 8' or so would be the truest. Hard to find a straight 2.4 anymore. Possibly a long length of angle iron.

Laser level possibly.

Search water level on the internet where you use a small tube and fill with water.

Good luck! Probably a total redo. I have been there on a few do it myself things too!

Or contractor.
Thanks . the pavers would be under the leg. I guess I'm going to try level out the dirt and use the pavers for the legs. I did an 18ft x 48in deep a few years ago and I got pretty level by just having a level to a 2x4 board and going around the circle.
 
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The pavers should be flush with your leveled ground.

Do the ground first, make sure that's level. Then you can dig down where the legs go to set the pavers flush with the ground. You can check that they are level with each other then all the way around.
 
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I have a long clear plastic tube that I use for this exact purpose. Hammer in a long stick in one spot and cable tie the tube to it. Measure exactly 3 feet up from the ground and put a mark on the tube with a sharpie, this is your reference point to which all other points will be leveled to. Cable tie the other end of the hose to a similar stick and mark the tube exactly 3 feet up from the bottom of the stick. FIll the tube with water.

Now when you walk around the perimeter, or anywhere in between, the bottom of the second stick will be level to the ground of the first when the water level on both tubes is exactly the same. You will need two people for the operation.
Leveling paver to paver with a bubble could cause you to be a bit off at the very end. Measuring across the entire pool with a water level will prevent this.

The easiest way is to mark all the posts and then dig out and put pavers in these spots, level to all the others. Then fill in between all the pavers with sand.

Remember, if you dig too much and need to backfill, do not do it with dirt, either use crushed rock or sand, the dirt will not compact well and settle over time.
 
I have a long clear plastic tube that I use for this exact purpose. Hammer in a long stick in one spot and cable tie the tube to it. Measure exactly 3 feet up from the ground and put a mark on the tube with a sharpie, this is your reference point to which all other points will be leveled to. Cable tie the other end of the hose to a similar stick and mark the tube exactly 3 feet up from the bottom of the stick. FIll the tube with water.

Now when you walk around the perimeter, or anywhere in between, the bottom of the second stick will be level to the ground of the first when the water level on both tubes is exactly the same. You will need two people for the operation.
Leveling paver to paver with a bubble could cause you to be a bit off at the very end. Measuring across the entire pool with a water level will prevent this.

The easiest way is to mark all the posts and then dig out and put pavers in these spots, level to all the others. Then fill in between all the pavers with sand.

Remember, if you dig too much and need to backfill, do not do it with dirt, either use crushed rock or sand, the dirt will not compact well and settle over time.

You got a picture of this? I think I get it, but I can't quite picture it.
 
OK,

I think that's a little complicated, and I think it's beyond what is necessary.

a 2x4x8' with a 4' level is accurate if you work it.

If the bubble is slightly off, on the same side, every time you measure, you can end up quite about out once you make it all the way around. It can work, but if you want to be sure, water level or transit level are the way to go.
 

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I'm a contractor but you may be able to rent one. Didnt make it easier to dig lol but i was dead nuts level! Rent or borrow a rotary laser with story pole and range finder. Accurate to 1/16 or 1/8 in depending on model.

The point on back filling is critical. I over dug my paver spots a little and filled under with sand. I definitely had settling and my sides are splayed out a little. If I did it over again I would have dug 42 in concrete piers to be frost free for structural posts. Those are the most critical ones to be solid. I tend to over engineer tho. lol
 
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