So I found a good sized tear in my liner. I drained it in preparation for changing the liner, but it looks like that might not be able to happen until we open it next year. It is a 24' above ground pool with the metal frame. Is there anything wrong with leaving it up all winter without water in it?
Leaving pool up without water?
- Thread starter Smiles79
- Start date
What kind of pool? Intex type or some other?
In general however... you'll have a big mess to clean up next year in addition to a whole winter of the elements giving your frame a beating. I'd take it down, dispose of the liner while it's not slimy and store the poles in a dry location were it me.
In general however... you'll have a big mess to clean up next year in addition to a whole winter of the elements giving your frame a beating. I'd take it down, dispose of the liner while it's not slimy and store the poles in a dry location were it me.
Well, I guess I'm not sure "what type." I still would cover it, and make some sort of stand to put in the middle to keep the cover from sagging and collecting too much water/snow if that would make a difference.
What is the brand of your pool?
If you want to leave it up covered and can make a cover that won't sag, by all means go ahead and try that. I just can't see why to do so since you'll have to take it all apart for a new liner next year anyway. It would be so much easier to take it down now, put a tarp over your pool spot and not deal with having to weigh down the cover so it doesn't sag over no water. Not to mention, the pressure of anything that did collect on the cover on the frame without water in it might compromise your poles.
Even with water in the pool there's always a moat of water and leaves on the cover overwintering... it's not easy to stop that from happening even with water in the pool much less without water in it.
Shrug... you sound like you really really want to leave it up. Go for it, and let us know how you fare?
If you want to leave it up covered and can make a cover that won't sag, by all means go ahead and try that. I just can't see why to do so since you'll have to take it all apart for a new liner next year anyway. It would be so much easier to take it down now, put a tarp over your pool spot and not deal with having to weigh down the cover so it doesn't sag over no water. Not to mention, the pressure of anything that did collect on the cover on the frame without water in it might compromise your poles.
Even with water in the pool there's always a moat of water and leaves on the cover overwintering... it's not easy to stop that from happening even with water in the pool much less without water in it.
Shrug... you sound like you really really want to leave it up. Go for it, and let us know how you fare?
OK, that's a very different pool than what I was thinking of when you said metal frame. Far more substantial poles and sides than the Intex types without metal siding, and probably ok to overwinter with a nice tall "tent pole" setup with a tarp/cover. Not the type you have to disassemble to install a new liner into. Thanks for the clarification!
I disagree. A metal wall pool should not be left up without water. The thin walls are not made to hold weight without the water and can easily collapse, kink or blow away without the support from the water. Any water is better than none. Not worth the risk in my opinion.
Where is the tear? I would fill it as much as possible in prep for winter. You can leave the level 6-8" below the return if it will hold that much water. No need to balance the water with chemicals since you will be draining in the spring.
Where is the tear? I would fill it as much as possible in prep for winter. You can leave the level 6-8" below the return if it will hold that much water. No need to balance the water with chemicals since you will be draining in the spring.
Glad you chimed in. I figured that would be a far more substantial setup than the Intex types, but my original thought of the stress on the walls without water seems to be appropriate.
Thanks for the input guys. The tear is at the very bottom of the liner, unfortunately
Does anyone have suggestions for what I can do if I can't get a new liner in (I'd rather not take it down if at all possible, I wasn't the one who put it up)? I'm mainly worried about finding the time to do it, I've read you're supposed to do it while it's warm.
You can put a big band-aid on it. Large vinyl patch kit or this large patch kit. One example, you can look around for other options. It may not look perfect, but it should hold water enough to get you through the winter.
Use a cloth to clean the area where the adhesive will be used for a better bond.
Use a cloth to clean the area where the adhesive will be used for a better bond.
Yeah, my only concern was with the hole being in the corner where the floor transitions to the wall, being unsupported. Has anyone patched a hole there before?
Why is it unsupported? Did the leaking water wash away the cove? If it is truly unsupported in that area, then cut the patch large enough to get to solid backing.
Leaks occur in that area a lot. There is usually a factory seam in the area of the cove and those seams are a natural place to leak. This is just a band-aid to get you through the winter so perfection isn't the goal. If you wanted it to be more permanent, then you could take more care in the patch application. Does that make sense?
Leaks occur in that area a lot. There is usually a factory seam in the area of the cove and those seams are a natural place to leak. This is just a band-aid to get you through the winter so perfection isn't the goal. If you wanted it to be more permanent, then you could take more care in the patch application. Does that make sense?
I say it's unsupported because it is right at the transition from floor to wall, I guess k can't think of a good way to explain it. I'm going to try to replace the liner and if it gets too cold I'll just patch the Darn out of it for the winter.
The cove is the slanted portion where the floor meets the wall.
All of liner should be supported by something, or the weight of the water will push the liner down until it finds something solid.
good luck, keep us posted.
All of liner should be supported by something, or the weight of the water will push the liner down until it finds something solid.
good luck, keep us posted.
- Jun 8, 2019
- 4,581
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I patched with Flex Tape and it worked well. Mine was a liner tear in an in-ground pool where the corner of two walls met the floor.
You really shouldn't leave the pool empty! High winds will destroy it. I would also caution against covering an empty pool because the weight of the cover will pull the walls in and also destroy it. Patch the hole with a patch as best you can and get water in the pool. It'll be a lot safer and deal with the new liner next year.
Did you have to add some sort of extra support behind the liner while you applied the tape?
@Smiles79 , why do you think there is no support in this area of the pool? The liner is supported by either the ground/floor, cove or walls of the pool.
cfherrman
TFP Guide
If it won't patch you could buy some plastic sheeting, the big roll and drop it in the pool and fill that, however it might cost $50 for a big enough roll