Leaks at both pressure and suction side of pump - repair/upgrade with CPVC adapters?

pre

0
Jun 16, 2013
19
Bay Area, Calif
Our older Sta Rite pump has 2" MPT inlet and outlet ports. Sadly we've sprung leaks at the suction side both the last two years, and now both ports at the threaded male adapter (2" PVC MPT to 1.5" socket adapter). The male adapter then glues to standard 1.5" PVC piping.

Two years ago, we did the repair with some Teflon tape at the MPT end. Reading around, I understand pipe dope works better, so used Rectorseal for the most recent replacement last year. Alas, it appears both pressure and suction side are leaking right at the threads.

I'm gathering supplies for another repair while the pump is down. I know that we've had occasional issues where the pump has run dry due to leaks at the suction side, and a few instances of water level being too low. I suspect these instances have caused the pump to overheat and perhaps deformed the 2" PVC MPT male adapter, as the pump's basket is appearing a bit deformed (presumably from the heat).

For this new repair, would folks recommend replacing the PVC inlet and outlet adapters with a CPVC variety to handle more heat? Certainly the best solution is to keep better watch of water levels to avoid the pump running dry and overheating, but would it be advisable to go with more heat resistant CPVC fittings at the pump?

I see Charlotte Pipe rates PVC at 140F and CPVC Schedule 80 at 200F. These male adapters would be connected to regular PVC pipes and fittings, which I'm not planning on replumbing for the time being, so I don't know how much more resistant the system will be to heat deformity.

I bought the 2" PVC fitting from my local home center for ~$2, but dug around and found a local specialty supplier that carries the CPVC Schedule 80 variety for ~$13.

These are some stock pictures of the adapter fitting, for reference:
4snDU65l.jpg


Having read up a few older threads/posts about CPVC, it seems there's not much consensus. That, in general, temperatures shouldn't get hot enough to affect the PVC parts and it not being worth the trouble and expense:
--PVC vs. CPVC?
--Is schedule 80 check valve needed?
 
CPVC is definitely better than pvc as far as holding up to hotter water.

The high temperature unions are a good choice.

If a pump runs dry long enough, the water can get hot enough to shrink normal pvc. That's probably what happened in your situation.
 

Thanks for the tip, I spoke to a local pool serviceman and he also recommended this as an alternative to the PVC or CPVC male adapter. He was patient and kind enough to actually point me to Amazon (which has it for ~$21 for quantity two), but in reading the reviews, lots of people have complained that this union is surprisingly brittle and leak-prone after one season. Basically, although it's advertised as high temperature, it does sound like it's still thin walled PVC of some sort from owners' responses.

It definitely does seem an ideal configuration in that it saves me an extra piece of PVC gluing on a 2" -> 1.5" bushing for my pipe and gives me the flexibility of a union. I'll look into it further, and stop by my local specialty store to see about their experiences with the CPVC male adapter
 
CPVC is definitely better than pvc as far as holding up to hotter water.

The high temperature unions are a good choice.

If a pump runs dry long enough, the water can get hot enough to shrink normal pvc. That's probably what happened in your situation.

Thanks. Right, chatting with two local pool serviceman, they mentioned heat as a more likely culprit than vibration, as both my suction and pressure sides are leaking at the same time while allowing the pump to run dry a few times.

One serviceman, per above, recommended either the CPVC or custom threaded union. While the other serviceman recommended I first give the suction side a try with waterproof silicone sealant/caulk -- basically he said squeeze it all around and let the pump run for three hours to suck/pull in the caulk into any leak channels while it dries. I'm a bit concerned that the silicone will adhere to my pump's inlet threads and permanently ruin the threading, but he insisted he's used it over 100 times and didn't affect the pump's port, even when it didn't fix the leak. As he noted, this only works for the inlet side as the pump suction draws the sealant/caulk in, while the outlet side will just get pushed out
 
I've been installing these for years in Tucson, which has extreme heat and freezing conditions without any failure in the PVC. The only part I can remember replacing is the o ring. CPVC is definitely better than Schedule 80 but subject to high heat from running dry conditions
 
I've been installing these for years in Tucson, which has extreme heat and freezing conditions without any failure in the PVC. The only part I can remember replacing is the o ring. CPVC is definitely better than Schedule 80 but subject to high heat from running dry conditions
Thanks for the quick response, really glad to hear your first hand experience. Especially with the test of extreme weather conditions

May I ask if you've also tried repairs at the suction side port with a silicone sealant/caulk? If this works for a couple seasons, I'll gladly try it first
 
The cmp unions are another choice.

Pool Unions - CMP

The silicone is not a good choice, in my opinion. I would replumb it.

Thanks for the suggestion. Looks like CMP has two offerings on this page, may I confirm you're referring to the "high temp" version, with the black Noryl male MPT and white socket? I Google'd around for the second union, the all-white "self-sealing union", but no luck on Amazon

I had never heard of "Noryl" until now, but glad to know it's rated at 200-230F (depending on which source), while having similar bending/stretching stiffness to PVC. Source 1, 2, 3

Here's the first option, which is the same one that our friend kadavis noted above:
5DNModg.jpg
 

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