Leak around pump to pipe fitting

torchroadster

LifeTime Supporter
Mar 29, 2008
23
East Texas
My pump is leaking where the pipe exits the housing on the top of the pump. This is the outflow pressure pipe. The leak is around the joint between the pump and PVC pipe. The pipe section is very short and cutting it out and replacing it would be difficult. Also it looks like it may be glued into the pump so not even sure if I could get it out easily. Is there something I can use to seal this joint without disassembling the pipe fitting? I've seen Plast-Aid mentioned on other posts - is this a good choice for the repair?
 

Bama Rambler

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 22, 2009
23,036
SouthWest Alabama
The best repair is to remove the fitting and reinstall one in it's place. Reworking the plumbing is not difficult even if you have to replace a few fittings. Post a pic of the equipment and we can help you figure out the best plan of attack.
 

torchroadster

LifeTime Supporter
Mar 29, 2008
23
East Texas
Here are the pictures, click the thumbnails to enlarge. The leak is at the junction of the gray pipe and the pump housing. Is the outlet of the pump threaded?




 

waste

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Mar 29, 2007
4,160
Coastalish 'down easter'
Any chance of a pic of the in fluent (front) side of the pump? The pics are great :goodjob: I'm trying to see if there is enough room, or a way, to install the union you need on the effluent side :cool:

One more pic and we'll figure out a way to solve this leak, in the best way possible :-D
 

4JawChuck

Well-known member
Jun 13, 2010
223
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
If the leak is at the threaded connection to the pump with the grey tube as shown here...



...just cut out a section of pipe approx halfway and put in a union, there should have been a union there anyway and you have plenty of material to glue one in.

Here is what some of them look like, make sure the o-ring is in there when you purchase it...they seem to go missing in the plumbing isle a lot.





You might even have room for a union ball valve which might make life easier when your cleaning the basket;



To figure out how much material to cut out of the pipe measure across the pipe stops inside the union and add 1/8", this will give you room while the glue sets up and prevent straining the rest of the pipe in case it was strained when it was originally glued. Scuff the plastic pipe with sandpaper or scotchbrite before applying the glue to remove any mold release agent and get a clean surface, do the union/ball valve interior part too.

Your leak is likely from the threaded connection at the pump and it looks like pipe dope was used as a sealant which doesn't work on plastic pipe all that well, I would use IPS WELD-ON All Seal. When you cut the pipe and get it unthreaded from the pump check the pipe threaded section carefully (check the pump housing too it might be cracked!), it may be damaged and require a new section...you can buy lengths pre-threaded from most hardware stores and you can cut to length as required. When re-installing turn in hand tight and then 1/2 -1 turn further with a strap wrench...don't overtighten (thats likely how it started leaking in the first place). You can try using teflon tape but use at least 4-6 wraps, it doesn't always work on plastic pipe so beware (it usually depends on if the threads were cut or molded, molded doesn't always seal because of the parting line on the thread).
 

torchroadster

LifeTime Supporter
Mar 29, 2008
23
East Texas
4jawChuck;

Thank you for the advice - I really didn't think I had enough room to do anything like that. Guess I need to go the plumbing store and see what they have. You're right - the leak is where you suspect and now that you mention it it does look like pipe dope was used to seal the threads.

I didn't get home till after dark tonight - so didn't get to take any more pics.
 

torchroadster

LifeTime Supporter
Mar 29, 2008
23
East Texas
Finally got around to fixing this last weekend. I cut the pipe, measured and put in a union just like 4jawchuck suggested. I barely had room for it, but it did fit. Fortunately everything lined up perfectly. I reused the both ends of the existing pipe and sealed the threads with Rectorseal #5. http://www.rectorseal.com/index.php?site_id=1&product_id=212 Reassembled and even let the sealant cure for 72 hours even though it isn't required. When I turned the pump on I still had a leak, around the threads of the pipe, not very much but nevertheless still a leak.

I couldn't find the suggested IPS weld on all seal, but I could have had other formulations of Rectorseal. I'm assuming the pipe is all PVC so it should've worked. Should the threads on plastic pipe be tapered like metal pipe? These seemed to bottom out in the pump before they got tight.


Ideas?
 

Bama Rambler

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 22, 2009
23,036
SouthWest Alabama
If the nipple bottomed out before it got tight you might need to use several wraps of t-tape or clean it real well and use silicone sealant on it.
 

Ranger987

In The Industry
Nov 3, 2010
152
Be cautious on your choice of thread sealants. Rectorseal products are widely known as troublesome on anything except metal pipes & pvc. The pump housing is not made of PVC. These sealants can be harmful to the pump housing, and are very harmful to ABS plastic commonly used in backwash valves, etc.
 

dmanb2b

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Apr 4, 2009
3,734
NY
Ranger,

The product I referenced from rectorseal spec sheet states the following "PURE WHITE can be used on a variety of metal and plastic piping including iron, galvanized steel, stainless steel, brass, copper, aluminum, polyethylene, reinforced fiberglass, PVC, CPVC, and ABS."

Not sure about the product the OP used though...good point :goodjob: However if you feel what I referenced is contrary to the rectorseal statement for PURE WHIT, and you have proof of the widely known issue with ABS, I would suggest you contact the manufacturer.
 

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