LCD Screen on Pentair IntelliFlo gone bad
- Thread starter omsrex
- Start date
So I got a the used display from ebay and put that urethane coating on it and the display lights up but no lcd.
Check the pins to the LCD screen (I believe the screen can move and lose a connection), or return to the guy on ebay.
Just wanted to put my 2 cents in on this subject: I purchased a used intelliflo VS on Craigslist "practically new" and "guaranteed" to work. Got it home and powered it up to check and guess what? Pump worked but no display! Called the guy back and he refused to do anything so I thought I was really screwed on this one. Been reading through the threads on this issue and thought I really didn't have anything to loose by taking the display apart and having a look around.
I found that inside the drive unit there were no signs of moisture or corrosion. I took the display apart and noticed that the LCD screen is held against a row of spring contacts simply by the pressure of the display case front. When I first removed the display unit it rattled when I shook it. I lightly cleaned the contacts even though they looked clean. When I reassembled it I applied a very thin strip of foam weather strip across the top of the LCD display before I snapped the top cover back on. This kept the LCD display in firm contact with the spring contacts. Reassembled the drive unit and when I reconnected the pump everything worked like new.
So I think the display issues others are experiencing are due to the LCD unit being loose and not making contact with the spring contacts. I do not think it is a corrosion issue. While I would not want to leave the display exposed to rain, it appeared to me that the drive unit is well sealed from the elements and it would be very difficult for moisture to enter it.
Just my opinion and what I observed on the one I have.
Jeff
I found that inside the drive unit there were no signs of moisture or corrosion. I took the display apart and noticed that the LCD screen is held against a row of spring contacts simply by the pressure of the display case front. When I first removed the display unit it rattled when I shook it. I lightly cleaned the contacts even though they looked clean. When I reassembled it I applied a very thin strip of foam weather strip across the top of the LCD display before I snapped the top cover back on. This kept the LCD display in firm contact with the spring contacts. Reassembled the drive unit and when I reconnected the pump everything worked like new.
So I think the display issues others are experiencing are due to the LCD unit being loose and not making contact with the spring contacts. I do not think it is a corrosion issue. While I would not want to leave the display exposed to rain, it appeared to me that the drive unit is well sealed from the elements and it would be very difficult for moisture to enter it.
Just my opinion and what I observed on the one I have.
Jeff
Jeff, I want to thank you for your helpful post. The LCD display on mine (Pentair 011018 model) went out about a week ago after three years of service.
Took it apart and found exactly the same conditions you described, no corrosion or other issues - simply not enough compression to force the display's contacts down onto the PCB. I added a few strips of 1/8" thick (uncompressed) adhesive backed (white) foam weatherstrip to the metal shield/casing of the display, and once the plastic clamshell of the case was snapped back together, all was working fine. An easy fix.
A few pics (sorry, I didn't take pics of every little step, but its all pretty self-explanatory) in case they are helpful for others running into this same problem:
Thank you all so much for the posts, detailed instructions and pics. I had the same issue, took apart the unit and put 1/4" foam weatherstrip exactly like the pic and after reassembly the display returned and the unit works great!
One other thing, for anyone else that may need to do this. After removing the drive assembly, you will need to remove those pesky tamper proof screw in order to disassemble the LCD. The easiest way to do this if you do not have the proper tool (and you probably will not) is to use a dremel or equivalent and a cutting wheel to create a slot in the bolt head and use a flat head screwdriver to remove the screw. Alternatively you can use a hack saw to the same effect.
One other thing, for anyone else that may need to do this. After removing the drive assembly, you will need to remove those pesky tamper proof screw in order to disassemble the LCD. The easiest way to do this if you do not have the proper tool (and you probably will not) is to use a dremel or equivalent and a cutting wheel to create a slot in the bolt head and use a flat head screwdriver to remove the screw. Alternatively you can use a hack saw to the same effect.
Thanks guys for this post, same problem, pump works but no display, I'm horrible with electronics but will try to disassemble and troubleshoot as well, I agree that if its $600 to replace the display, I'm better off buying a whole new pump, but hopefully I can fix it.
Cheers,
Joel
Cheers,
Joel
I just wanted to say thanks to you guys for some great advice. My LCD screen went out as well. Pentair's advice (buy a new one) just seemed a bit extreme. I found this thread, took it apart and added some weather stripping and now it works just fine. You're my heroes!
Another great first post!! I'm glad you have found our information helpful and have saved money over the advice you were given, please consider making a donation to TFP.
We are staffed by volunteers and are registered as an IRS 501 (c) (3) charity and donation are what keep the electrons flowing.
Just an FYI for anyone trying this...
One of the first things Pentair says when you sit down in any Intelliflo training is to not open the drive. The capacitors in there supposedly hold a charge that will knock you back to the BBB method.
BE CAREFUL REPAIRING SOMETHING THAT WAS NOT DESIGNED TO BE REPAIRED.
One of the first things Pentair says when you sit down in any Intelliflo training is to not open the drive. The capacitors in there supposedly hold a charge that will knock you back to the BBB method.
BE CAREFUL REPAIRING SOMETHING THAT WAS NOT DESIGNED TO BE REPAIRED.
This makes it look very easy, but has anyone tried to rotate the display\keypad 180?
Another thing that looks easy would be adding an extension cable as a DIY remote keypad. Anyone?
Thanks Rwhite692 for posting those pics! Very inspiring to my inner hacker.
Another thing that looks easy would be adding an extension cable as a DIY remote keypad. Anyone?
Thanks Rwhite692 for posting those pics! Very inspiring to my inner hacker.
Thanks to all who contributed to this thread, it was very helpful. Here are a few more tips that I hope may help someone else out with this problem. First, since I've wanted to remove tamper proof screws on other jobs before, I finally decided to invest in a tamper proof screw driver set (about $27 at Home Depot with various size attachments). Once I had that removing the housing was a breeze. Second, my circuit board actually did have some corrosion, likely from water penetrating the unit. So I took some 70% isopropyl alcohol, Q-tips and toothpicks and cleaned it carefully. That seemed to do the trick. Also, in addition to the weather stripping others mentioned, I put some electrical tape overlapping where the gasket meets the display unit to hopefully reduce the chance of water getting in again. Finally, if after you've put everything back together and flipped the circuit breaker back on, the screen is blank, wait several minutes. I was just about to take everything off again thinking it hadn't worked when the display came back on one line at a time. It's been working just fine ever since. Good luck.
Have to say I was fairly skeptical on this fix (my LCD screen on Pentair has been blank for a couple of years) but opted to try it as described in this thread. Pics and details from Rwhite692 were very helpful. Spent $4 for foam weatherstrips at HD and that was pretty much it. Taking the whole thing apart took awhile and I was a little nervous about being able to put everything back together in proper shape. Got everything in place, tightened down and flipped the electricity back on.....voila! Darn thing worked. Amazing what the internet can do for you. Appreciate everyone who contributed to this thread. Should have tried it long ago!!!
Would love to see a video on the process, I'm gun-shy of opening the case and making sure the power is off, but haven't seen my screen in over a year, lol. . .
For anyone who has done this, it looks to me that the display could be rotated 180 degrees, can anyone confirm this?
Pentair says no, and says to buy the Intelliflo 2 VST at full dealer prices if I need the screen reversed.
My pump/heater location prevents me from using this pump.
Pentair says no, and says to buy the Intelliflo 2 VST at full dealer prices if I need the screen reversed.
My pump/heater location prevents me from using this pump.
Can anyone provide the exact steps to separate the Screen Touch Pad from the Electronics Module? (get to the state that is displayed in Picture #4 of Rwhite692 post) There seems to be a lot of plastic Tabs and other plastic connections around the unit and I don't want to break anything off while prying apart these components.
Solved my own question by starting on one side and gently prying away the Screen Touch Pad from the Tabs that are attached to the Electronics Module. Worked my way around the top, to the opposite side and then around the bottom.
Attached the sticky back insulation around the screen and snapped the whole unit back together.
AND I did rotate the display 180 Degrees - being that the metal mounting-bracket for the Electronics module (Picture #1) fits the same in either direction and the assembled module is a perfect rectangle, it fits snug back into the Cover Assembly. The wire connector has plenty of length to connect to the main base power panel.
Works like a champ - I now have a working LCD screen and a touch-pad that actually faces the way that a person would read it!
Thanks to all who contributed to this forum & contributed to my success!
Solved my own question by starting on one side and gently prying away the Screen Touch Pad from the Tabs that are attached to the Electronics Module. Worked my way around the top, to the opposite side and then around the bottom.
Attached the sticky back insulation around the screen and snapped the whole unit back together.
AND I did rotate the display 180 Degrees - being that the metal mounting-bracket for the Electronics module (Picture #1) fits the same in either direction and the assembled module is a perfect rectangle, it fits snug back into the Cover Assembly. The wire connector has plenty of length to connect to the main base power panel.
Works like a champ - I now have a working LCD screen and a touch-pad that actually faces the way that a person would read it!
Thanks to all who contributed to this forum & contributed to my success!