Just received my new tft test kit, help

[JoniTull]

Hello, I order and just received my TFT test kit per recommendations from here. I'm excited to get this handled but a little confused. I've read all the instructions and searched the forums. My questions is, where is the line I fill the cell to? I know this is a silly question but I have not found anything that references that. On my instruction sheet it indicates "fill both side up to the think black". Looks like it may have cut off the wording.
This is the first time I've ever used a kit like this and trying to be as accurate as can be.

Also, I ordered the smart stir and no instructions for that at all. Please help this green newbie girl out!

 

[JoniTull]

Hello, I order and just received my TFT test kit per recommendations from here. I'm excited to get this handled but a little confused. I've read all the instructions and searched the forums. My questions is, where is the line I fill the cell to? I know this is a silly question but I have not found anything that references that. On my instruction sheet it indicates "fill both side up to the think black". Looks like it may have cut off the wording.
This is the first time I've ever used a kit like this and trying to be as accurate as can be.

Also, I ordered the smart stir and no instructions for that at all. Please help this green newbie girl out!

Also, What should I test first. I have been treating TA and PH first then moving on. Should I test for those in that order as well?

 

[duraleigh]

Hi, Joni,

I don't have a comparator block in front of me but if I remember right, that "thin black line" is about 1/16th of an inch just above the top colors and it's on both sides. Someone will be along very soon to help.....maybe with a pic.

Now, what to test first. The two most important elements you should be aware of is chlorine and then pH. Coincidentally, they are the two tests on that comparator block you are asking about. Disregard the TA for now.

The best thing you could do is post up the results of ALL your tests and let us help you interpret hem and change them if necessary. You will soon find that kit an invaluable resource for a crystal clear pool all summer!

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

For the Smart Stir, the white pill (or cross) is magnetic. When your drop it in the sample vial, it will spin to stir the sample.

Always fill the vial with the water sample first (10 or 25 mL line), then drop in the magnetic pill.

 

[Wobblerlorri]

Fill the cell to the thin black line, then add reagents.

With the SmartStir there are two buttons on the bottom panel below where you place the vial. Fill the vial to the measuring line, then drop in the magnetic pill. Press the right button on the bottom panel. A little light will come on. Press the button again and the pill will start to spin. The left button will shine a light up through the sample,making it easier to see color changes.

 

[JoniTull]

Also, What should I test first. I have been treating TA and PH first then moving on. Should I test for those in that order as well?

Ok I followed what I could understand on the instruction card. In the cylinder for CL and PH. CL (yellow side) was very yellow so I am assume the max, I put as -5-10. The PH side (red) was faint so I recorded at 6.8. I also followed the instructions on the CC in the Chlorine only vial and it said if its clear, no chlorine, if turns pink then add another chemical. It wasn't clear, it turned a yellow tint. I did backwash then shocked my pool last night. I have to tell you I am totally confused. I cant even add my readings in to pool math because I cant come up with the correct numbers. No judgement, I am very green to this. A little frustrated at this time. Thank you in advance.

 

[duraleigh]

Please read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School......it'll go over some of the basics.

 

[JoniTull]

Please read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School......it'll go over some of the basics.

Hi, Joni,

I don't have a comparator block in front of me but if I remember right, that "thin black line" is about 1/16th of an inch just above the top colors and it's on both sides. Someone will be along very soon to help.....maybe with a pic.

Now, what to test first. The two most important elements you should be aware of is chlorine and then pH. Coincidentally, they are the two tests on that comparator block you are asking about. Disregard the TA for now.

The best thing you could do is post up the results of ALL your tests and let us help you interpret hem and change them if necessary. You will soon find that kit an invaluable resource for a crystal clear pool all summer!

Ok, sorry for all the confusion. I just went ahead and tested everything listed on the card, which read weekly testing. These are my readings.
FC- 6.5
CC- 1.0
PH- 6.8
TA- 100
CH- 125
CYA- 110

I did shock last night and it rained before that a bit to add extra water to the pool.

Thank you so much for taking the time to help!

 

[PoolStored]

Welcome to TFP!!!

How did you get a CYA result of 110? Can you describe what you did?

 

[JoniTull]

Ok, sorry for all the confusion. I just went ahead and tested everything listed on the card, which read weekly testing. These are my readings.
FC- 6.5
CC- 1.0
PH- 6.8
TA- 100
CH- 125
CYA- 110

I did shock last night and it rained before that a bit to add extra water to the pool.

Thank you so much for taking the time to help!

In the past from what I understood is I take care of the TA first, then PH, the chlorine. Do I add the borax, to bring my PH up or add muranic acid to bring my TA down first. On pool math, it indicates under PH to add 10 lbs of borax and under TA it only says this " To lower TA, you reduce PH to 7.0- 7.2 with acid and then aerate to increase PH". Which Im not sure what is aerate.

 

[JoniTull]

Welcome to TFP!!!

How did you get a CYA result of 110? Can you describe what you did?

yes, I used the red capped bottle and filled it with pool water to the 7.5 ml level. Then added R0013 to that same tube reaching to 15ml, shook for about 30 seconds. Then poured in to the clear vial named CYA. I used the number when I could no longer see the black dot at the bottom of vial. This is how I understood of the instructions.

 

[Newdude]

No judgement, I am very green to this. A little frustrated at this time. Thank you in advance.

We got you, just like 20 (?) of us promised when you were thinking it all over. Seriously we had the whole gang there, and the rest of them will be here soon to root you on and help.

CYA- 110

CYA can't be read like it looks when its over 90. So make a small container of half and half pool and tap. Fill that mix to the label of the CYA squirter thingie. Add CYA reagent to the top of the sticker. Test with the googly eye and multiply X2. So, a 70 is a 140.

*****this test will determine if you need to drain, and by how much and the other tests are meaningless at the moment.

You want good sunlight for the test, so it may be best to wait until tomorrow if it's cloudy on the whole east coast right now.

 

[JoniTull]

Please read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School......it'll go over some of the basics.

I definitely read them, and I somewhat understand them. My confusion comes in with the testing, instructions are vague and didnt find much on the basics. However I think I got most of it, now just trying to add to what I need to, to get clear water. Thanks

 

[JoniTull]

yes, I used the red capped bottle and filled it with pool water to the 7.5 ml level. Then added R0013 to that same tube reaching to 15ml, shook for about 30 seconds. Then poured in to the clear vial named CYA. I used the number when I could no longer see the black dot at the bottom of vial. This is how I understood of the instructions.

If you think I should redo this test and maybe I can use a dropper to add and subtract from the vial more accurately, I can do that.

 

[PoolStored]

In the past from what I understood is I take care of the TA first, then PH, the chlorine. Do I add the borax, to bring my PH up or add muranic acid to bring my TA down first. On pool math, it indicates under PH to add 10 lbs of borax and under TA it only says this " To lower TA, you reduce PH to 7.0- 7.2 with acid and then aerate to increase PH". Which Im not sure what is aerate.

Your TA is just fine for the moment. You really want to get your pH up. The best thing to use is 20 mule team Borax as it will have the smallest effect on TA. Raise it to 7.4, then leave it. You should be good to go from there.

For the moment, do not worry about the TA, it will come down over time. We use aeration (see my aerator below) to raise pH without raising TA.

 

[Texas Splash]

Joni, based on what I've read so far, we need to know how high (over 100) your CYA really is. Newdude's comment above describes how you can do that "diluted" CYA test. We need to start there because if your CYA is indeed over 100, you will need to exchange some water before adjusting any chemicals. One step at a time. We'll take care of you.

 

[PoolStored]

Couple of points. CYA is horseshoes. You only fill to each line, it is a log scale, so only the lines are accurate. If you cannot see the dot when the level is below 100, then you have to dilute the water as newdude said.

 

[Newdude]

Post #12. We have all been where you are and it's overwhelming. We never forgot how bad it sucked. 5 tries later we realized that it was stupid easy.

Take a breath. Start over with the dilution test. We ride together.

 

[PoolStored]

Here we go.

1) Put pool water into the squirt bottle up to the bottom of the sticker.
2) Put TAP water into the squirt bottle to fill it up to the top of the sticker.
3) Gently shake/mix the two waters
4) Squirt enough out so that the water is now to the bottom of the sticker.
5) add the CYA reagent and follow the rest of the test as normal. Outside, bright sun to your back. Fill to first line, hold at your waist. Glance at it then away. If you can still see dot, fill to next line and repeat. Remember which line you filled to when, at a glance, you couldn't immediately see the dot.
6) Come back with the number next to the line.

 

[JoniTull]

We got you, just like 20 (?) of us promised when you were thinking it all over. Seriously we had the whole gang there, and the rest of them will be here soon to root you on and help.

CYA can't be read like it looks when its over 90. So make a small container of half and half pool and tap. Fill that mix to the label of the CYA squirter thingie. Add CYA reagent to the top of the sticker. Test with the googly eye and multiply X2. So, a 70 is a 140.

*****this test will determine if you need to drain, and by how much and the other tests are meaningless at the moment.

You want good sunlight for the test, so it may be best to wait until tomorrow if it's cloudy on the whole east coast right now.

Its pretty sunny here in Louisana, Ill go and do it now. The CYA reagent is R-0013?