the valve furthest away from the furnace is fed by two skimmers. The 5 lines above that valve feed the 5 returns. Previously, the valve returning suction from the skimmer would be wide open to allow equal section. I adjusted it late last year to gain more section to a particular skimmer but if I return the valve to the open position, water is blocked. It works fine in this position or if I go to the other side. Oddly, it doesn’t open close freely like the other valves.
Jandy Valve Defective?
- Thread starter sagosto
- Start date
- Dec 13, 2020
- 934
- Pool Size
- 19600
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
These valves are simple inside and easy to work on. Replacement parts are easy to find. There's a PDF manual on line with blow-up drawings.
From the sound of it, you'll want to remove and inspect the diverter gate for breakage. Could also be a chunk of debris there. That could happen for example if something broke off inside the heater and was carried by flow down to the valve.
Power down everything and bleed pressure. Remove the handle by unscrewing the thumbscrew. Start taking pictures for getting things back the way they were. Remove the 8 self-tapping screws and pop the top. Best is to have a #3 Phillips screwdriver. The very common #2 is smaller. It will work, but doesn't fit well. Don't drop any screws! Exact replacements are about $8 apiece. Yeah.
When reassembling, take care to start each screw in its old threads. Tighten in cross pattern (1-5-3-7-2-6-4-8) in stages: Snug, firm, then one more firm pass just to check. Don't over-tighten. Just enough to pull the cover into contact with the shell. No big force required. The o-ring is doing the sealing.
From the sound of it, you'll want to remove and inspect the diverter gate for breakage. Could also be a chunk of debris there. That could happen for example if something broke off inside the heater and was carried by flow down to the valve.
Power down everything and bleed pressure. Remove the handle by unscrewing the thumbscrew. Start taking pictures for getting things back the way they were. Remove the 8 self-tapping screws and pop the top. Best is to have a #3 Phillips screwdriver. The very common #2 is smaller. It will work, but doesn't fit well. Don't drop any screws! Exact replacements are about $8 apiece. Yeah.
When reassembling, take care to start each screw in its old threads. Tighten in cross pattern (1-5-3-7-2-6-4-8) in stages: Snug, firm, then one more firm pass just to check. Don't over-tighten. Just enough to pull the cover into contact with the shell. No big force required. The o-ring is doing the sealing.
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Yes the green box is the heater. It should be easy to at least look and see if something is broke or blockage Are the screws labeled? How do you know the order?
Lastly, does the off on the handle have to align with the in to prevent flow? For example, would the handle position at 9pm be the same as 3pm? And should it free spin? This one doesn’t go around and is different from the others which stands out to me
Lastly, does the off on the handle have to align with the in to prevent flow? For example, would the handle position at 9pm be the same as 3pm? And should it free spin? This one doesn’t go around and is different from the others which stands out to me
- Dec 13, 2020
- 934
- Pool Size
- 19600
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
No. Just pick a #1. It's not super critical. I was just trying to give you an idea of a pattern.
The shaft should have splines that allow the handle to fit only one way: with "OFF" lining up with the diverter gate. So no. 3 and 9 are not the same.
As long as the top plate and the handle look the same after you're done, the valve will work the same. The key thing to look at on the top plate is that small vertical tab that serves as a stop.
I think this is your manual. Or if your pipe is 1.5", then this. Not much difference except part numbers.
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After removing the screws, you can put the handle back on, and use it to twist the entire top assembly off. Avoids the use of tools that might damage things if you get too excited trying to get it off.
With the handle still on and looking at the guts you just pulled off, you can see how it hits stops (and where the "off" tab is) in relation to where the big internal gate is positioned. A simple, yet very effective, design.
With the handle still on and looking at the guts you just pulled off, you can see how it hits stops (and where the "off" tab is) in relation to where the big internal gate is positioned. A simple, yet very effective, design.
