Just an update. This morning I decided to shut the breaker off for the Jandy aqua pure and the breaker for the pump for about a minute or two. Right now it’s cycling correctly and it is not stuck in cell reverse
Jandy AquaPure 1400 trouble
- Thread starter daveva
- Start date
So after all I need a new cell . In your comments on one of your post you stated that I would need to modify the circuit board. I'm assuming that I would have to solder the wire on the circuit board that had to be cut to install the 700. Are there any other modifications ? Also Im having a hard time finding a cell that looks like mine. They all have the right serial numbers but the pictures look different. Do you know the best place to purchase the cell.
Jandy AquaPure 1400 Replacement Cell, 40,000 Gal Pool, 16ft Cord, Tri-Sensor - Model PLC1400 - INYOPools.com
Replacement Salt Cell for the Jandy Purelink Chlorinator
www.inyopools.com
This should work for you. Just solder the cut jumper to configure for the 1400 model.
Need help again. So I purchased a jandy 1400 salt cell and thought my troubles were over. I still wasn't getting much chlorine production from the new 1400. Took a water sample to the pool store to find out that the salt was at 2700 and my chlorine generator user interface has a reading of 3600. I asked how accurate their salt tester was and he said that they had just had it calibrated Friday and it should be accurate. So I came home and discovered some pink algae on the sides of the pool and I mediately started the process to eliminate the algae. Test strips that I have for salt I guess I didn't trust either. What I'm trying to determine now is how do I re-calibrate the Jandy chlorine generator user interface ? Thanks
Did you reconnect the jumper to reconfigure for the 1400?
Did you get the whole PLC1400 cell kit with the new cord and trisensor?
Does everything seem to be working correctly with no errors indicated?
I wouldn't recalibrate just yet. I recommend that you get a K-1766 salt test kit and make sure before you recalibrate.
Did you get the whole PLC1400 cell kit with the new cord and trisensor?
Does everything seem to be working correctly with no errors indicated?
I wouldn't recalibrate just yet. I recommend that you get a K-1766 salt test kit and make sure before you recalibrate.
K-1766 Taylor Salt Test
tftestkits.net
Just received my taylor salt kit. The test reads 3200 the interface reads 3700. AquaPure is set to 100% still adding shock every 2 days.
You need to SLAM. You can recalibrate if you want, but it shouldn't make any difference.
Press the Salinity button and hold it until it beeps 3 times. The system will beep when you push it and then at 5 seconds and again at 10 seconds. Release the button after the 3rdbeep.
Press and release the Temperature button within 5 seconds to enter the salinity calibration screen.
The system will display the salinity reading, press the up arrow to increase the reading and the down arrow to decrease the reading.
When the proper reading is reached press the Temperature button within 5 seconds to store it in memory
Press the Salinity button and hold it until it beeps 3 times. The system will beep when you push it and then at 5 seconds and again at 10 seconds. Release the button after the 3rdbeep.
Press and release the Temperature button within 5 seconds to enter the salinity calibration screen.
The system will display the salinity reading, press the up arrow to increase the reading and the down arrow to decrease the reading.
When the proper reading is reached press the Temperature button within 5 seconds to store it in memory
Thanks, do you think that the salt is sufficient and should be producing enough chlorine without having to shock?
Sorry I didn't see that you need to slam. I know what you're talking about. Thanks
Just an update. Before I started to slam the pool I ordered a new board for the AquaPure . Just surfing eBay and saw one for 60.00 I let the the AquaPure run at 100% for 12 hrs checked the chlorine and it was off the chart. It is now set at 50% trying to get things back in line. Still think it was a good idea to upgrade from the 700 to the 1400. Thanks for all your help it was much appreciatedit was much appreciated
And my troubles continue. So after putting in the new board and the new 1400 I have been getting constant high salt. Taylor salt test says salt is 3200. I adjusted the user interface board to 3200 two weeks ago and everything seemed fine until today. So today I get a high salt reading from my UIB. To clear the fault I checked the salt again 3200 and then lowered it again mainly just to see if fault would clear. The fault cleared but I know that will not solve the problem. Not 10 minutes the UIB went right back to 4100 Help
Thank you I found a troubleshooting guide. It gives the procedure for my particular model
If there is a high salt reading will the generator still produce chlorine. Or does it shut off to keep it from harm due to the high salt?
The test procedure is the same. A high salt indicator means that the cell is off. Did you replace the trisensor when you got the new cell?