Jandi LXI heater error msg

Yes he had me unplug the F1 and F2 from the IGNITION CONTROL and jumper together......turned power back on and fan ran.....at what speed I do not know

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The schematic you are using is for the LX.....I have the LXI250N...Is there a difference?
 
Yes he had me unplug the F1 and F2 from the IGNITION CONTROL and jumper together......turned power back on and fan ran.....at what speed I do not know

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The schematic you are using is for the LX.....I have the LXI250N...Is there a difference?

I should have posted this schematic instead ... Page 24 ... http://www.zodiacpoolsystems.com/~/media/Zodiac/Global/Downloads/H/H0286900.ashx Basically the same. I was trying to figure out the wiring sequence for the power flow. The junction block where all the wires come into is a bit confusing to figure out what is tied to what and what gets power and what supplies power.

When you jumpered, did you jumper the terminals on the board or the wires?
 
STEP 12 Check voltage between F1 terminal of Ignition Control and ground (A).
Is voltage 105 VAC or higher? If no,
replace Ignition Control, if yes
check voltage between Black(L)
wire to Blower on PDB and ground
(A). If voltage is 105 VAC or higher
replace Blower, if lower check
wires, replace PDB...........................I think I found my problem. On step 12 with power on and heat on I checked voltage between F1 terminal of Ignition Control and ground (A) 110vac power yes........then check voltage between Black (L) on PDB and and ground (A)....it has power 110vac......so the guide said MOTOR BAD :(
 
I will UPDATE when I order FAN (OUCH !!) and install.........Thanks all for help :) word of advice to pool owners......make sure ACCESS DOOR IS LATCHED on heater

I had the same issue during the last hurricane in FL. The best way to test (if you are properly experienced and have done the other safety checks) is to jump f1 and f2. If the fan blows then you know it is the ignition control module. I took mine apart and found it burnt and fried on the board near f1 and f2 as well as near some capacitors.

New ICM did the trick.$200 fix based on the door getting blown open. ;)
 
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