Is a SWG switch worth it?
- Thread starter mavrick6382
- Start date
Don't go crazy micromanaging it. There is leeway on the high side of target all the way to SLAM and there's little leeway below target. If tomorrow is cloudy with low UV loss, focus on that you have enough FC today, not that you made 'too much'
Btw, while I am dialing in the chlorine & SWG, is it advisable for the pool to be used? Or would it be better to not have swimmers messing with the chemicals?
It's already pool season here in AZ and my wife has been asking me about this, as the kids want to swim. I've been holding them off, ha.
It's already pool season here in AZ and my wife has been asking me about this, as the kids want to swim. I've been holding them off, ha.
You put the pool in to use it, so i say get to it !!
Again, we aren't stressing over making a little too much FC. You'll have 1 or 2 FC to spare for batherload because you aren't playing kissy face with minimum.
If anything, you'll have a more realistic target to match. Otherwise you'll dial it in and then add bather load, falling short and needing more FC.
OK so here's the chlorine results since turning on the SWG:
5/4 (early morning) - 7
(Set SWG to 75% output)
5/4 (about 4-5 hrs later) - 9.5
5/5 - 14.5
(Dropped output to 0)
5/6 - 9.5
(Increased output to 10%)
5/7 - 8.5
My recommended chlorine is minimum 3, range of 5-10.
Am I shooting for a level anywhere in the Target Range? Or do I want to be on the higher side?
Given I am at 8.5 right now, should I stay out the current Chlorine Output of 10%? Or should I up the output by 5% to try to get it to 10?
5/4 (early morning) - 7
(Set SWG to 75% output)
5/4 (about 4-5 hrs later) - 9.5
5/5 - 14.5
(Dropped output to 0)
5/6 - 9.5
(Increased output to 10%)
5/7 - 8.5
My recommended chlorine is minimum 3, range of 5-10.
Am I shooting for a level anywhere in the Target Range? Or do I want to be on the higher side?
Given I am at 8.5 right now, should I stay out the current Chlorine Output of 10%? Or should I up the output by 5% to try to get it to 10?
It depends how much you'd like to step in and micromanage because results will vary from day to day. Monitor it for a week and ensure that you're matching the higher loss days. You will likely overproduce on the lower loss days. If you step in and turn it down on those days, you'll have to step in again soon.
Personally, I step in at a teen. I have lost count how many times I realized it as a high teen.
So basically the goal is to ensure that the SWG is generating at least enough chlorine to replenish the high loss days. Chlorine should at least be in range (5-10), higher is OK (up to 13). I should step in and adjust chlorine output if chlorine levels exceed 13 or drop below 5.
Is that fairly accurate?
Is that fairly accurate?
@mavrick6382 - you're basically a pro now!
Don't overthink it. Get a few days consistently within range of your FC and enjoy your pool. If your FC gets slightly above your range then the sun will do it's job and you can adjust accordingly.
Y’all are awesome. Thanks for answering my 1000 questions! This process has been a great learning experience. I’ll keep hitting up the forum for help when needed. I am sure it’ll happen, haha.
Literally. Why. We're. Here. Just sayin.
Heck, you've even helped ensure we're here next time. THANKS. I don't want to have to find a new hobby.
Ha, I know, I know. But seriously, the response times, quality of advice, patience, cordiality, etc. are so great on this forum. Thanks again. Making the move to using this forum and managing my own pool (wow, about 6 or so years ago now!) was well worth it.Literally. Why. We're. Here. Just sayin.
Heck, you've even helped ensure we're here next time. THANKS. I don't want to have to find a new hobby.
Well, I am back again. Chlorine is still being dialed in. It held at 7.5 from 5/8-5/9, but today was down to 6. I increased the chlorine output from 15% to 25%. Right now I am just trying to get it to a point where the chlorine level will hold (longer than a day).
Separately, I purchased a new pool vac (Hayward POOLCLEANER), and the instructions say that the RPM should be between 11-14; I can only get 8. Filter is recently cleaned (a week ago), chemicals are dialed in, and I am running the pump at a speed of 3,150. My hose is hooked up to a suction port on the side wall of my pool.
The manual says that you can insert the regulator valve or the hose into the suction port; I have inserted just the hose (which is what I always did with my Hayward Navigator). If just the hose is inserted into the suction port, it says you may need to adjust the 3-way valve. I have a 3-way diverter valve that has typically been set to point in the opposite direction of the pump so that the skimmer and bottom drain work simultaneously. It sounds like the manual is saying to turn the handle clockwise to open up the skimmer side more. I did that (it's currently set to about 4:00 as seen in the picture), but it did not increase the RPM's. I am assuming the lower pipe is to the drain and the upper pipe is to the skimmer, but don't know for sure.
Any ideas to get the RPM up? Should I keep moving the diverter valve further down (towards 6:00)? Should I try adding the regulator valve to the hose and inserting the valve into the suction port?
Chlorine is still being dialed in. It held at 7.5 from 5/8-5/9, but today was down to 6. I increased the chlorine output from 15% to 25%. Right now I am just trying to get it to a point where the chlorine level will hold (longer than a day).Separately, I purchased a new pool vac (Hayward POOLCLEANER), and the instructions say that the RPM should be between 11-14; I can only get 8. Filter is recently cleaned (a week ago), chemicals are dialed in, and I am running the pump at a speed of 3,150. My hose is hooked up to a suction port on the side wall of my pool.
The manual says that you can insert the regulator valve or the hose into the suction port; I have inserted just the hose (which is what I always did with my Hayward Navigator). If just the hose is inserted into the suction port, it says you may need to adjust the 3-way valve. I have a 3-way diverter valve that has typically been set to point in the opposite direction of the pump so that the skimmer and bottom drain work simultaneously. It sounds like the manual is saying to turn the handle clockwise to open up the skimmer side more. I did that (it's currently set to about 4:00 as seen in the picture), but it did not increase the RPM's. I am assuming the lower pipe is to the drain and the upper pipe is to the skimmer, but don't know for sure.
Any ideas to get the RPM up? Should I keep moving the diverter valve further down (towards 6:00)? Should I try adding the regulator valve to the hose and inserting the valve into the suction port?
Attachments
- Apr 10, 2018
- 5,440
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45
Which two are connected? Skimmer, main drain, suction side port.
On my pool, the skimmer and MD are connected. Turning the diverter valve in front of the pump adjusts suction between the suction side port and skimmer/MD. Balance between MD and skimmer is handled by the diverter/float valve under the skimmer basket.
On my pool, the skimmer and MD are connected. Turning the diverter valve in front of the pump adjusts suction between the suction side port and skimmer/MD. Balance between MD and skimmer is handled by the diverter/float valve under the skimmer basket.
I was assuming that the skimmer and main drain are connected to that diverter valve. But I am not entirely sure. The pool was plumbed well before I moved in. And when I had the filter/pump replaced back in 2016 or so, I don't think the installer informed me of the setup. The valve may have had labels on it at some point mentioning what was what but they are long gone. I replaced the old diverter when I did this SWG install, and the previous one had no labels.
- Apr 10, 2018
- 5,440
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45
Try some tests. With full suction, 3100 RPM may be a bit much for the cleaner without the regulator. Put the regulator on the accessory port/vacuum hose.
Begin to turn the diverter in one direction. Assuming the pump doesn't start to cavitate, keep going until it stops. Check the skimmer and cleaner for suction strength. If the valve operates skimmer/accessory port, the cleaner will have full suction or no suction. Then, do the same, but turn the valve in the opposite direction. If the pump sounds like it's starving for water, stop turning. This means the pump is running to high for the cleaner to handle.
FWIW, I have a similar set up (same pump/same cleaner/dedicated accessory port) and I run the cleaner at about 2500 rpm. I use the regulator as a safety device in case something clogs the cleaner.
Begin to turn the diverter in one direction. Assuming the pump doesn't start to cavitate, keep going until it stops. Check the skimmer and cleaner for suction strength. If the valve operates skimmer/accessory port, the cleaner will have full suction or no suction. Then, do the same, but turn the valve in the opposite direction. If the pump sounds like it's starving for water, stop turning. This means the pump is running to high for the cleaner to handle.
FWIW, I have a similar set up (same pump/same cleaner/dedicated accessory port) and I run the cleaner at about 2500 rpm. I use the regulator as a safety device in case something clogs the cleaner.
- Feb 6, 2015
- 6,358
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Take the basket out of the skimmer. There should be two holes.
The hole closest to the pool edge usually goes to the main drains (if the MD is plumbed thru the skimmer). The hole furthest from the pool edge usually is plumbed to the equipment pad.
If the hole closest to the pool edge appears open, GENTLY push a broom handle down it. If the handle goes in more than a few feet, chances are that line is connected to the main drains. You can also sent water down that line and see if any comes out at the main drains - but it is usually more difficult to see water coming out of the main drains (unless some debris/dirt comes out too).
The hole closest to the pool edge usually goes to the main drains (if the MD is plumbed thru the skimmer). The hole furthest from the pool edge usually is plumbed to the equipment pad.
If the hole closest to the pool edge appears open, GENTLY push a broom handle down it. If the handle goes in more than a few feet, chances are that line is connected to the main drains. You can also sent water down that line and see if any comes out at the main drains - but it is usually more difficult to see water coming out of the main drains (unless some debris/dirt comes out too).
Hello, still have not had a chance to deal with the pool vac but will get to that soon.
I did do a full chem test yesterday and my salt level is up to 5K, which is outside the range of the CircuPool. I assume that level is high enough that I need to drain a little water to get the salt level down to 3500?
I did do a full chem test yesterday and my salt level is up to 5K, which is outside the range of the CircuPool. I assume that level is high enough that I need to drain a little water to get the salt level down to 3500?