Insight Needed: How Does This SWG /Piping Arrangement Look?

[phappy]

Hi there all. I am thinking about taking the plunge and purchasing a CircuPool RJ-60 salt water generator.

I used my amazing artistic talent & mocked-up the best location for it at the pool filter (sorry, but once you see my bad art...you can't unsee it! Haha.). I have two return lines. The pink coloring is the new piping, the blue is the CircuPool Switch & RJ-60. After the RJ-60 I'll have to get a PVC "splitter" and attach the two ends to the return lines.

Do you think this would be satisfactory? I read the CircuPool installation instructions, and I'm pretty sure the unit can be installed vertically.

Thanks very much for your thoughts & help. Also...anyone have info as to what PVC fittings I should search for?

 

[Texas Splash]

You have the right idea, and a vertical install should be fine. Making rock-solid connections with all that black flex line might be your biggest challenge. Rigid PVC and connections is ideal. Good luck with the install. If you phave more questions let us know. Post some pics once done.

 

[Newdude]

The flow switch can't be mounted with 'down flow' or gravity will close the switch one day when it fails. They will all fail, it's only a matter of when.

Bring the whole thing over to accommodate the flow switch and cell, then come back with a sideways 'F' and reduce the legs to 1 inch.

 

[phappy]

Thank you both Texas Splash and Newdude for your replies & help!

Texas Dude, I'll be certain to pay attention the connections to the black flex returns to make certain they are solid/quality connections. Great insight.

And Newdude, thanks for advising that the switch shouldn't be installed on a down-flow. I would never have known that! I think your re-design is a terrific idea. Thank you my friend.

 

[phappy]

And is the piping and connectors needed available at places like Home Depot or Lowes? Or are there places that sell better/more pool-filter-specific piping?

As in the photo, the piping/connectors on my pool filter are gray in color. Not sure if that is unique to particular piping brand, etc.

Thanks again for your advice & help!

 

[Newdude]

And is the piping and connectors needed available at places like Home Depot or Lowes?

I would take the picture and the SWG to a plumbing supply store and they will go in the back and come back with whatever you need to adapt everything.

As in the photo, the piping/connectors on my pool filter are gray in color. Not sure if that is unique to particular piping brand, etc.

They are irrigation fittings to match the irrigation pipes.

 

[phappy]

Thank you Newdude! I am going to go to a local plumbing supply store to see if they can help. Great advice.

I've been thinking more about a salt water pool and have a few more questions:

- How do I know how long I’ll have to run my pump for? I currently run it 6 hours a day, which I calculated does one full exchange of water in the pool (well, at least based on the math). I’m afraid if I get a SWG…it may say I have to run the pump longer to generate enough chlorine? I'd of course rather not be in a position where I install a SWG...then find out I have to run the pump longer than I currently do. That would not be ideal.

- How often do I have to test the water with a salt water pool? And do I need a new specific test kit for salt water pool? I currently have the Taylor K-2006 (with plenty of reagent, etc). I see mention of checking "salinity", but I don't know what test this is with a Taylor kit.

- With a salt water pool I still have to SLAM when I open the pool, correct? And because salt water pools need a higher CYA (70-80 is recommended in the TFP article), I’ll be using more liquid chlorine correct? The typical CYA level I try to hit is between 45-50. So, I’ll use almost twice the CYA for SLAM?

Thanks again for all your help.

 

[Texas Splash]

How do I know how long I’ll have to run my pump for? I currently run it 6 hours a day, which I calculated does one full exchange of water in the pool (well, at least based on the math). I’m afraid if I get a SWG…it may say I have to run the pump longer to generate enough chlorine? I'd of course rather not be in a position where I install a SWG...then find out I have to run the pump longer than I currently do. That would not be ideal.

Depends on the SWG you chose and what settings you adjust it to. For example, an SWG set at 50 for 24 hrs is the same a one set at 100% for 12 hrs. So you can either set the SWG at a high % output for a shorter pump run time, or leave the pump running longer at a lower % output. Each pool & owner sets theirs differently.

How often do I have to test the water with a salt water pool? And do I need a new specific test kit for salt water pool? I currently have the Taylor K-2006 (with plenty of reagent, etc). I see mention of checking "salinity", but I don't know what test this is with a Taylor kit.

Same as any other pool. Primarily keep an eye on the FC and pH more often. TA weekly and the CH, CYA, and salt monthly. The only other kit you'll want is the Taylor K-1766 for salt testing.

With a salt water pool I still have to SLAM when I open the pool, correct? And because salt water pools need a higher CYA (70-80 is recommended in the TFP article), I’ll be using more liquid chlorine correct? The typical CYA level I try to hit is between 45-50. So, I’ll use almost twice the CYA for SLAM?

If you have algae, sure. Yes, the higher the CYA the higher the FC SLM level (if required). But if you are just starting the season and don't see clear evidence of algae, the doing an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test may be just fine.

 

[Newdude]

So a 'properly sized' (1X) swg needs to run 24/7 in the peak season to produce enough FC per day. You can only go a little over 2X with a 60k unit, but up north it won't need to run its maximum 10 hours for long. Maybe a couple weeks. The rest of the season will be less.

 

[phappy]

Thank you again Newdude and Texas Splash. I appreciate you taking the time to educate me.

I'm not a fan of the having to find-out how long I'll need to run the SWG, but only after it is installed. I don't want to be in a situation where I install the CircuPool RJ-60, then ultimately discover (through testing, adjusting the percentage CL, etc) that I'll have to run my SWG & pump 10 hours a day. That's four more hours than my pool needs to turn the water over once, and I've been successful at running it 6 hours a day for many, many seasons. And four more hours a day is four more hours of electricity costs.

Is there a formula that can help with this before hand?

 

[Texas Splash]

No need to worry about any turn over formula. Just skim the waters surface and produce chlorine. That's it.

 

[Newdude]

I don't want to be in a situation where I install the CircuPool RJ-60, then ultimately discover (through testing, adjusting the percentage CL, etc) that I'll have to run my SWG & pump 10 hours a day. That's four more hours

You very well may hit 10 hours for 2 or 3 weeks on hot years. But the other weeks will need less, substantially less depending on how far you extend the season.

If I had a single speed pump, I'd buy the calimar 3HP VS for $519. It'll pay for itself in 2 years, even with your short seasons. It'll pay for the electric upgrade on year 3, if you don't already have 220v out there. Then it will keep paying for itself going forward.

For example, my SWG works down to 700 RPMs with simple plumbing, which is 35W to run the pump.