Initial Steps For getting well water in Balance

[Spirals1313]

We had this pool last year and did get it in balance and clear, using all of the great threads in this forum. This year I hoping to get things in balance more efficiently. Currently filled and working on filtering out the rust. I am cleaning out the filter every couple hours.

My question is What to work on first? From reading I need to get Chlorine in ASAP and should start by shocking the pool, but should I lower the PH or alkalinity first? or deal with it after the shock? OR maybe a better question is what order to manage levels?

Then should will Pro Team metal Magic help filter out the rust or keep it "hidden'? I think it holds the rust in liquid form but I think I would rather have it precipitate out. Then I could filter to take a week and filter it out as best i can?

Test Kit: EasyTest Strips 7 in 1

Total Hardness: 1000 or higher (that is as high as the test kit goes)
FC ppm: 0
TC ppm: 0
CYA: 0
Alkalinity: the color was close or at the 180 marks so (120 and 180)
PH 7.8

Chemicals I have on hand: I can go to the store easily.
Muriatic Acid: 31.43%
"Shock": 12.5%
CYA 100%
Dichlor: 97% (Pro Team Zipchlor)
PH up:
Pro Team Metal Magic








Inital readings:

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! I certainly would not "shock" the pool as you might randomly hear from others. Elevating the FC too quickly without proper balance to the CYA could really upset the iron from the well. Here's what I would recommend:
1 - Trash the test strips. They are horrible. Your need a proper test kit, either a TF-100/Pro-Series kit (link in my signature) or Taylor K-2006C. With iron in your water, testing accuracy is that much more important.
2 - Yes, the pH needs to be well-controlled because of the iron. If it tries to exceed 7.8, lower it with muriatic acid.
3 - You need both stabilizer and FC to keep the water sanitary, clear, and balanced just right to "hopefully" not aggravate the iron. Start by adding 40 ppm worth of dry stabilizer via the sock (pre-soak) method. Add only about 2 ppm of liquid chlorine and watch the water carefully for color changes or staining. Once the stabilizer in the sock is soft (about 30-40 min) squeeze it all out. From that point, balance the FC to the CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. You can add the Metal Magic at this time as well.

If possible, try to pre-fitter water from the well. It may/may not help, but always worth a try. Keep the FC and pH well controlled due to the iron. Once you've done those steps above, keep a close eye for color changes or staining.

Also see -----> Pool Care Basics

 

[Texas Splash]

Once you get one of those test kits, feel free to post a full set of test results so we can look it over carefully. If you do see that iron is trying to precipitate out of the water, immediately place some polyfill in the skimmer to try and capture it. It's great to mechanically filter out the iron, but it also comes with the risk of staining the pool, so it's a balancing act.

Use our PoolMath APP to help you with dosage amounts as well.

 

[Spirals1313]

Welcome to TFP! I certainly would not "shock" the pool as you might randomly hear from others. Elevating the FC too quickly without proper balance to the CYA could really upset the iron from the well. Here's what I would recommend:
1 - Trash the test strips. They are horrible. Your need a proper test kit, either a TF-100/Pro-Series kit (link in my signature) or Taylor K-2006C. With iron in your water, testing accuracy is that much more important.
2 - Yes, the pH needs to be well-controlled because of the iron. If it tries to exceed 7.8, lower it with muriatic acid.
3 - You need both stabilizer and FC to keep the water sanitary, clear, and balanced just right to "hopefully" not aggravate the iron. Start by adding 40 ppm worth of dry stabilizer via the sock (pre-soak) method. Add only about 2 ppm of liquid chlorine and watch the water carefully for color changes or staining. Once the stabilizer in the sock is soft (about 30-40 min) squeeze it all out. From that point, balance the FC to the CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. You can add the Metal Magic at this time as well.

If possible, try to pre-fitter water from the well. It may/may not help, but always worth a try. Keep the FC and pH well controlled due to the iron. Once you've done those steps above, keep a close eye for color changes or staining.

Also see -----> Pool Care Basics

Thank you for your guidance. I am working on getting a better test kit. I have started by lowering the PH a little. then added the CYA and Liquid Chlorine.

I have added the CYA but the strip is still reading at zero after almost 48 hours. From reading, I think it takes awhile for the CYA to start to show up on a test. How long should I wait until I add more?

It took way longer/more liquid chlorine than I expected to get the chlorine up to the acceptable range. However, it has been super sunny, and there is plant of debris in the pool too. Along with being unsure about the CYA level; there is a lot going on.

When I add chlorine, then more rust shows up and needs to be filtered out. That took over a week last year so I am not concerned yet.

I think I am on the right path.

 

[Texas Splash]

From reading, I think it takes awhile for the CYA to start to show up on a test. How long should I wait until I add more?

If done by the sock method, the next day. At the same time, you can't trust those test strip readings.