Inherited a pool/maintenance-need some pointers on chemistry order

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OxPool

Member
Jul 26, 2022
12
Salisbury, NC (Piedmont)
Pool Size
16000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Moved back to my hometown (Salisbury, NC) and my elderly mom wasn’t quite taking care of the pool like her and my deceased dad used too (chlorine tablets/shock packets no testing but that was dads department-used to use Taylor test kits in his younger years). 16000G (16x32 but working off memory) vinyl pool (started the day I was born 45 years ago ironically) so liner degraded and was falling down in spots. Full sun after 10am pool is oriented length N to S.

Fast forward to this week and a new liner is in, Hayward super pump up and running with new seals (she let it run dry after I replaced the pump and sand 2 years ago). She tossed in a bag of shock and a chlorine tablet before I could intervene. Just vacuumed this morning and tested at 11am but will focus more on testing post sunset. No visible cloudiness or algae but could feel it in the pool. Current test results:

TF-Pro test kit:
PH: 7.2
CL: .5
TA: 30
CYA: 0 (filled the vial and completely clear)
FC: 1.5 ppm (nearly changed full at 2 drops)
CC: 0
TC: 1.5

Realized I skipped CH but can test it on the next round.

Temp-need to grab a thermometer.

What I’m lacking in (reading the articles as well-pool school/TFPC for beginners sticky) is the order of adjusting chemicals aka Chlorine, first CYA second then PH etc.

Planning a WalMart or LPS run for liquid chlorine, other recommended chemicals as listed in Pool School.

Having had saltwater tanks the testing brings back memories of that (one drop swirl, another drop swirl) and helping my dad test as a boy and remember some of the relationships of PH/Alkalinity/Calcium but the Chlorine piece is new to me.

Thanks!!
 
I'm a bit of a newbie, but I'm glad to chime in with what I've been doing:

First:

FC/CYA Relationship Article - given you have very low FC and literally ZERO CYA - let's get you schooled on the chemical relationship
I'd recommend getting your CYA above 30 PPM - check out the sock method (literally dangling a sock full of CYA in front of your return)

Second:
Get your FC up to range that is SLAM-worthy. You mention "feeling" algae in the pool - and the only way to clear that up is with a hyper-focus on chlorine.
If you get your pool to 30 PPM CYA - your SLAM target is 12 FC. The chart in that FC/CYA Article will walk through your SLAM target.

Get up to speed on the SLAM process too - you'll want a good amount of chlorine and enough reagent to test FC throughout the day (multiple times a day at onset).

Last:
When you're in SLAM, PH won't matter - you'll just adjust that when you get the chlorine leveled, and the algae taken care of! Speaking of algae - I'd start scrubbing/brushing all the nooks and crannies of the pool to break down the algae; then backwash or vacuum the dead algae out.

Hopefully all this makes sense!

I opened my very first pool earlier this summer - and the team of people on TFP have created a very warm and trusting environment. Please keep the questions coming, and I promise you're in the right place to get the help you need!
 
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JessBlount617 said:
I'm a bit of a newbie, but I'm glad to chime in with what I've been doing:

First:

FC/CYA Relationship Article - given you have very low FC and literally ZERO CYA - let's get you schooled on the chemical relationship
I'd recommend getting your CYA above 30 PPM - check out the sock method (literally dangling a sock full of CYA in front of your return)

Second:
Get your FC up to range that is SLAM-worthy. You mention "feeling" algae in the pool - and the only way to clear that up is with a hyper-focus on chlorine.
If you get your pool to 30 PPM CYA - your SLAM target is 12 FC. The chart in that FC/CYA Article will walk through your SLAM target.

Get up to speed on the SLAM process too - you'll want a good amount of chlorine and enough reagent to test FC throughout the day (multiple times a day at onset).

Last:
When you're in SLAM, PH won't matter - you'll just adjust that when you get the chlorine leveled, and the algae taken care of! Speaking of algae - I'd start scrubbing/brushing all the nooks and crannies of the pool to break down the algae; then backwash or vacuum the dead algae out.

Hopefully all this makes sense!

I opened my very first pool earlier this summer - and the team of people on TFP have created a very warm and trusting environment. Please keep the questions coming, and I promise you're in the right place to get the help you need!
Click to expand...
Thanks! That link is open and printed out slam.

By the late feeling just meaning slick but no discernible growth. Heading to get supplies now.
 
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OxPool said:
Thanks! That link is open and printed out slam.

By the late feeling just meaning slick but no discernible growth. Heading to get supplies now.
Click to expand...
If you are worried about algae at all - you could perform an OCLT - that should give you a good indicator. Not to overcomplicate - but it’s part of the SLAM criteria.
 
JessBlount617 said:
If you are worried about algae at all - you could perform an OCLT - that should give you a good indicator. Not to overcomplicate - but it’s part of the SLAM criteria.
Click to expand...
Will observe and see-getting CYA, liquid chlorine, and baking soda for now and will continue to monitor. Thanks for the quick responses!!

Now to figure out hanging the sock in the skimmer or rigging something up off the side of the pool that the corgis/Great Danes/8yr old won’t destroy lol.
 
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I honestly just put the CYA in an athletic-material sock, tied a rope around it, tied the rope to one of the rails on my above-ground pool, and let it "float" right by my return. Every hour or so, I'd walk by and give it a squeeze in front of the return.
 
JessBlount617 said:
I honestly just put the CYA in an athletic-material sock, tied a rope around it, tied the rope to one of the rails on my above-ground pool, and let it "float" right by my return. Every hour or so, I'd walk by and give it a squeeze in front of the return.
Click to expand...
Thanks-what I was thinking. Of course I get home with supplies and 4 kids in the pool-nothing I can’t fix and well life coming back to me as an adult and making me go Dang dad was right-2 kids are good 3 is a crowd lol.
 
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Latest results 7am this morning (44 hrs from initial tests 36 hours from dosage). CYA Sock method (4 in return pump
Flow) nearly dissolved rest added as recommended by pool math app:

PH: 7.2
CL: 0
TA: 60
CYA: less than 30 per test kit assuming 20 to not over dose wuickly
FC: .5
CC: 0
TC: .5

Added LC, stabilizer (1# to skimmer intake) plus reoriented/shook CYA socks (do this as I walk by as well). Slowly but surely!
 

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reggiehammond said:
Raise FC to significantly more than you're doing. With low CYA, might have to dose often, but you really don't want to let things get out of hand.
Click to expand...
Should I shoot for a higher FC amount in pool math? I added likely 20% more than pool math mentioned being am with low CYA and full day of sun.

Will test again this evening to see how the day has went.

Also fighting family wanting to swim during the day so not helping chemistry but aerating it at least.
 
Liquid CYA is a crapshoot as most the actual CYA sticks to the bottle. The sock method takes less than 24 hours and is the gold standard.
If you've used PoolMath to add the correct amount of CYA for 30, assume that you have 30 for all dosing. It can take several days to accurately test, and even then, the CYA test isn't perfect.

I would target 6-7 if I were you. 3 is too low; it's wise to treat the minimum as the red line of death, and the low end of the range as the minimum.
www.troublefreepool.com

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
Latest as of 15 minutes ago:

PH: 7.5 (calibrating ph probe for quicker tests-my old eyes have their moments. Also assuming ph will drop some overnight with no lighting
CL: 3 (wife said between 2-4 based on the color test kit updated to 3 based on TC below)
TA: 65 (it turned slightly but not fully pink at 60 and not bright pink until 70 so assuming 65?)
CYA: 30 (likely 35 was getting ambient light but now that I know the test results easier to interpret and my 8 yr old wants his night time story).
FC: 2.5
CC: .5
TC: 3
 
reggiehammond said:
Liquid CYA is a crapshoot as most the actual CYA sticks to the bottle. The sock method takes less than 24 hours and is the gold standard.
If you've used PoolMath to add the correct amount of CYA for 30, assume that you have 30 for all dosing. It can take several days to accurately test, and even then, the CYA test isn't perfect.

I would target 6-7 if I were you. 3 is too low; it's wise to treat the minimum as the red line of death, and the low end of the range as the minimum.
www.troublefreepool.com

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
Thanks! I was thinking about this and my old reef tank days and solutions lost in liquid form stored vs our old kalkwasser slurry methods for more uptake. I’ll keep the sock method going-once I explained to my wife why 4 of my black athletic socks (short ankle highs) were dangling in the return pump flow and shook them she understood it (she was a lifeguard like me and got to do the dosing and realized it given the scale needed for a new pool vs maintenance). My 8yr old is giving me jokes about washing my dirty socks but well what is new. 🤣
 
OxPool said:
Latest as of 15 minutes ago:

PH: 7.5 (calibrating ph probe for quicker tests-my old eyes have their moments. Also assuming ph will drop some overnight with no lighting
CL: 3 (wife said between 2-4 based on the color test kit updated to 3 based on TC below)
TA: 65 (it turned slightly but not fully pink at 60 and not bright pink until 70 so assuming 65?)
CYA: 30 (likely 35 was getting ambient light but now that I know the test results easier to interpret and my 8 yr old wants his night time story).
FC: 2.5
CC: .5
TC: 3
Click to expand...
Don't test chlorine using the OTO comparator block; just use the FAS-DPD drop test. The OTO test is only good for saying if you have chlorine present, but otherwise completely useless.

0.5 CC present indicates that you likely have algae, given that UV is very effective at knocking out chloramines easily.
SLAM Process can take care of it all.
 
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