Inground pump hardwired or on a plug?

jamjam

Well-known member
Jun 25, 2020
679
NY
Pool Size
25000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
I had 1 electrician say the pump should be hardwired and another saying it should be on a twist lock plug, my pool builder also said it should be on a plug so i can take it inside in the winter. Who is right? For those in the northern regions, are your pumps hardwired or on a plug, and do you take your pumps inside during the winter?

I am assuming the SWCG and the heater should be hardwired.
 
My pump is on a plug and I take it indoors. I understand it’s mostly for my benefit and the pump can withstand the winter, but it makes me feel better. The SWG has its own proprietary twist and lock plug and that comes indoors also. The power/control unit is hardwired to the panel and stays outside but it’s also high enough on a post to not be buried in a snowdrift for half the winter. If it was ground level like the pump/SWG, I’d take that inside too.

Many people just cover their stuff with contractor bags after blowing out the lines and call it an off season. Neither way is wrong.
 
So hardwire the heat pump and SWCG control box, have the pump on a plug sounds like a reasonable way to do it.

Is your pump cord in conduit or is it just a loose equipment plug?
 
It’s a fat cord on the pump spliced with a plug On one end and directly to the pump on the other The heater has flex pvc with individual conductors.
 
I ordered the stuff to do a twist lock - now i just need to get a cord - the pump is designed for conduit as it has a threaded opening - on your pump how is the cord anchored - does it have a separate threaded stay that attaches to the case before being wired to the terminals?
 
I believe it has a screw on crimp piece at that threaded spot, into a splice box on the side of the pump with regular wire nuts inside. Some pumps have screws on the back and need male connectors attached. I’ll have to check later for you. Hang tight.
 
I believe it has a screw on crimp piece at that threaded spot, into a splice box on the side of the pump with regular wire nuts inside. Some pumps have screws on the back and need male connectors attached. I’ll have to check later for you. Hang tight.

appreciate that (a pic would be awesome :) )
 
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looks like there are liquid tight cord grip connectors for this application - i think i might just go ahead and do the electric myself and save some money for floats.
 
I ordered the stuff to do a twist lock - now i just need to get a cord - the pump is designed for conduit as it has a threaded opening - on your pump how is the cord anchored - does it have a separate threaded stay that attaches to the case before being wired to the terminals?
Most likely you will need a "SO" or "Cord" connector. You probably need 1/2". Depending on your motor amperage you need either #12 or #14 cable. Then because its a stranded wire you may need a "Sta-con" to connect the wire to the terminal in the motor.
 
Most likely you will need a "SO" or "Cord" connector. You probably need 1/2". Depending on your motor amperage you need either #12 or #14 cable. Then because its a stranded wire you may need a "Sta-con" to connect the wire to the terminal in the motor.
I ordered a 3’ twist lock 240v pool pump cord. I will attach through the 1/2” threaded port on my pump housing with a liquid tight cord grip connector. I will run a single Jbox with a 240 receptacle off my sub panel and put on an oversized wet proof cover.
 
Cool, and awesome of you to take the time to show me. Thank you! That is a liquid tight cord grip - exactly as I suspected. I am all set - my plan should work
 
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Didn’t want to start a new thread - I have everything wired and bonded myself. Only thing I don’t have wired is the light. I have it bonded and the ground jumper installed and potted. All that needs is power to the deck box. It’s about 60 ft run and I’m gonna provide the trench, the deck box and the circuit breaker. Electrician quoted me $1560 to install a switch, run schedule 40 to the deck box and wire it. He will also do a bond test and cover the UL inspection of all the existing work I did.

$1560 sounds really high to me - I’m considering it because I have a feeling the inspection will go smoother. But I am not sure if that’s just me over thinking it

Does $1560 seem high?
 
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