I just really need some hope

[AngelinaCocoaBeana]

I rented a house this summer in Bartow, FL with a super green pool. Location is possibly important because I am right in the phosphate mining capital; there is a giant gypsum stack close enough that if I stood on my roof it would be easily visible. I attached a photo of how it started. After months of fighting with my property management company (pmc from here on out) and the inadequate pool company I am required to use because I pay a $150 fee every month for servicing, and finally just resorting to a lot of work on my own dime, we got it clear. I am ordering a test kit recommended here as soon as my check hits this week so we can be sure we are properly maintaining the chemistry, and I will figure out all the info I need to get my signature up to par. I do know it is a 17k gallon concrete in ground with a cartridge filter (this was replaced last month and we do know how to and have been rinsing it while handling the algae problem). But I do have some questions in the meantime. My daughter's birthday party is Saturday and I know it is a first world problem, but we are really upset that we probably won't be swimming to celebrate.

-The pool guy keeps putting phosphate remover in, and everything I am reading here says that is not really important. Maybe it is for me considering my location? Is that sediment at the bottom dead algae or debris from the phosphate remover, or both? Could the phosphate remover be causing the oily film on top - the pool level is high because it rains like the dickens here in the summer and we know we are going to try to vacuum so we need it higher rather than lower, but we are theorizing that sinces it's over the skimmer maybe it isn't clearing the surface? IDK, I am theorizing like a philosopher. Do I tell him to quit putting that in? Do I just fire him altogether because doing it myself and paying the $150 I am required to for nothing may be less costly in terms of frustration?
-We keep hitting obstacles in our attempts to vacuum to get that Crud off of the bottom. (Which I begged my pool guy the week before last to do his next visit due to the party and he didn't bother, side note. He is my arch nemesis at this point.) First our vacuum plate wouldn't seal, I went by the haywood model number on my skimmer lid but it doesn't fit, and also there was an aftermarket basket with these nubs so even if the diameter was right it wouldn't have gone down enough to seal probably. We got a better basket and tried to cut the nubby one down just to use for vacuuming since the skimmer narrows as it goes down, as a last ditch effort to rig it to work, but no go. Then we just spent a week scooping debris and leaves from the bottom so it would mostly be that fine powdery debris and we could skip the vacuum plate, which did work and got it where it is now. But when we tried to vacuum, we don't seem to have a valve to turn the main drain off so the suction was meh and the waste water comes out so fast and close to the house that we realized we needed to divert it away from the house. Now we have a hose and clamp to to that, but with the main drain on I don't even know if it matters.

I have a local pool guy with good reviews coming today to see if he can help get that Crud off the bottom. But my goodness, I am exhausted from fighting with the pmc, fighting with the pool guy, fighting with the pool itself, fighting with the vacuuming. I'm paying $600 more in rent/fees than my last house and for a bigger pool house it would be worth it but right now I feel like I am paying to be ticked off every day. Does anyone have anything to tell us that may help us out until we get our test kit and can be more specific in asking for guidance? Bless you!

 

[Bperry]

I rented a house this summer in Bartow, FL with a super green pool. Location is possibly important because I am right in the phosphate mining capital; there is a giant gypsum stack close enough that if I stood on my roof it would be easily visible. I attached a photo of how it started. After months of fighting with my property management company (pmc from here on out) and the inadequate pool company I am required to use because I pay a $150 fee every month for servicing, and finally just resorting to a lot of work on my own dime, we got it clear. I am ordering a test kit recommended here as soon as my check hits this week so we can be sure we are properly maintaining the chemistry, and I will figure out all the info I need to get my signature up to par. I do know it is a 17k gallon concrete in ground with a cartridge filter (this was replaced last month and we do know how to and have been rinsing it while handling the algae problem). But I do have some questions in the meantime. My daughter's birthday party is Saturday and I know it is a first world problem, but we are really upset that we probably won't be swimming to celebrate.

-The pool guy keeps putting phosphate remover in, and everything I am reading here says that is not really important. Maybe it is for me considering my location? Is that sediment at the bottom dead algae or debris from the phosphate remover, or both? Could the phosphate remover be causing the oily film on top - the pool level is high because it rains like the dickens here in the summer and we know we are going to try to vacuum so we need it higher rather than lower, but we are theorizing that sinces it's over the skimmer maybe it isn't clearing the surface? IDK, I am theorizing like a philosopher. Do I tell him to quit putting that in? Do I just fire him altogether because doing it myself and paying the $150 I am required to for nothing may be less costly in terms of frustration?
-We keep hitting obstacles in our attempts to vacuum to get that Crud off of the bottom. (Which I begged my pool guy the week before last to do his next visit due to the party and he didn't bother, side note. He is my arch nemesis at this point.) First our vacuum plate wouldn't seal, I went by the haywood model number on my skimmer lid but it doesn't fit, and also there was an aftermarket basket with these nubs so even if the diameter was right it wouldn't have gone down enough to seal probably. We got a better basket and tried to cut the nubby one down just to use for vacuuming since the skimmer narrows as it goes down, as a last ditch effort to rig it to work, but no go. Then we just spent a week scooping debris and leaves from the bottom so it would mostly be that fine powdery debris and we could skip the vacuum plate, which did work and got it where it is now. But when we tried to vacuum, we don't seem to have a valve to turn the main drain off so the suction was meh and the waste water comes out so fast and close to the house that we realized we needed to divert it away from the house. Now we have a hose and clamp to to that, but with the main drain on I don't even know if it matters.

I have a local pool guy with good reviews coming today to see if he can help get that Crud off the bottom. But my goodness, I am exhausted from fighting with the pmc, fighting with the pool guy, fighting with the pool itself, fighting with the vacuuming. I'm paying $600 more in rent/fees than my last house and for a bigger pool house it would be worth it but right now I feel like I am paying to be ticked off every day. Does anyone have anything to tell us that may help us out until we get our test kit and can be more specific in asking for guidance? Bless you!

Welcome!, sorry it’s on those terms. The pool is green because of inadequate sanitation. A pool person who let a pool get that way isn’t doing their job. The pool needs chlorine, not phosphate remover.

You can safely add 5ppm of liquid chlorine each day until the test kit arrives. That’s about 3/4 gallon in your pool size. Do it today.

 

[jmgossman]

I agree with Bperry, needs chlorine. I might would go ahead and shock it, but using liquid, not powder shock. Or look up how to SLAM a pool on here.

Phosphate provides food for algae. It is my understanding that is the main reason phosphates are a concern. If you add Borates to your pool, around 50PPM, it wont allow algae to grow (it isnt an algacide, meaning it doesnt kill algae, it just stops the growth). Its my understanding if algae cant grow, phosphates become a non issue. There are threads and instuctions on here about how to add borates to your pool. Borates can be very helpful in a number of ways, but there are some downsides to them as well, especially if you have pets that drink out of the pool, so make sure you read the threads/instructions before you decide to use them. Personally, I added borates to my pool and wish I would have done it sooner!

 

[Bperry]

If you add Borates to your pool, around 50PPM, it wont allow algae to grow (it isnt an algacide, meaning it doesnt kill algae, it just stops the growth).

To help clarify, algae can grow when borates are in the water. There’s may be some info saying that they can help a little bit but it’s far from necessary and can make pH adjustments more tricky. Don’t add them until and unless all the rest of the water chemistry is solid.

 

[Newdude]

especially if you have pets that drink out of the pool

Pets are harmed at 200+. The 50 ish in pools isn't harmful, though they shouldn't drink the other stuff in pool water in general.

 

[TinFoilHat]

I didn't see that she asked about borates. You need the water level to be 1/2 way up the skimmer for proper skimming action and there needs to be a swinging door there as well, called a weir door. You definitely need to fire your pool boys and do this yourself. This is daunting in the beginning but you are already catching on to it. Being in Flo-rida you will be draining a lot of water so you will need one of our recommended test kits to keep you CYA and other chemicals in the proper range.

 

[sande005]

As noted, you need chlorine. Add as Bperry noted, until your test kit arrives.
Is there any green at all?
Does the junk on the bottom appear more white, or more tan?
Dead algae usually seems like tan piles of dirt, that poofs up in clouds when disturbed.
Precipitate from the phosphate remover may tend to be whiter - and it still poofs.
In either event, vacuuming to waste is the easiest way to get it out quickly, although the challenges you've had getting a working vacuum are understood.
Your filter should capture it if vacuuming and not going to waste, but may require several cleanings, which can be a drudge with cartridge cleaning.

The hazy part may take longer, depending on whether there is still live algae in the pool or not. With guidance here, and your test kit, that is easier to evaluate. Not to discourage, but you may have days ahead of adding lots of liquid chlorine. We hope not - but can't tell until you can get testing going. The good news is that the pool will still be swimmable, as long as you can see to the bottom of the deep end.

But make sure that no one puts more phosphate remover in the pool! Nor any other powders or shocks except liquid chlorine.