How to wire Intermatic T104P to Pentair VS-3050 pump and IC40 SWG

[jrhAR]

I just bought a house with my first pool. It has a Pentair VS3050 variable speed pump and an IC40 SWG. They are currently wired from a Tork 1103 timer, which appears to be used only as a junction box, since no wires except grounds are connected to any of the timer's terminals, and the timer's clock doesn't run (I'm guessing because the 1103 motor is 120v). I'm considering installing an Intermatic T104P timer, if you think it appropriate.

Coming into the current timer box from a manual switch below are two Red wires, a White wire, and a Green ground. One Red is tied with a wire nut to a Black wire going to the pump. The other Red wire is connected with a wire nut to two Black wires: one goes to the pump, the other goes to the SWG. The White wire is tied with a wire nut to a White wire going to the SWG. The Ground is connected to a screw on the face of the timer; the Green Ground from the pump and the bare Ground from the IC40 are both connected to a screw in a tab sticking down from the center of the timer's terminal strip.

Please tell me if the T104P is appropriate for my needs, and if so, which wires go to its A, 1, 2, 3, and 4 terminals. Thank you.

 

[Mayorb]

You don't need the timer.
Your VS pump has programming schedules which can be set.
A timer will actually "confuse" the pump and cause trouble.
The pump's two hot lines (black wires) should be run directly to the breaker.

 

[jrhAR]

Mayorb, thanks for your reply. I think the model I have is before they put the timer in it. The label on the pump says: D/N: 176L8083 P/N: 350521. If there was ever a label that had the pump model number (VS-3050, etc.) on it, it's no longer there. Its control panel only has buttons for selecting one of 4 preset speeds, or for increasing/decreasing a speed. I found a manual online for a pump that has a control panel like mine; the manual is entitled "IntelliFlo® VS-3050 Variable Speed Programmable Pump", and the bottom of the next page says: P/N 357269 (Rev D) - 7/21/09 (I think this pump was installed in 5/2012). If it has any programming capability, I've yet to find it, beyond choosing pump speed.

 

[Bama Rambler]

I assume that you're planning on selecting the speed manually and just want the timer to start and stop the pump?

If that's the case then you'll also want the timer to start and stop the SWCG as well.

From your description of the wiring it appears that the pump is set up for 240 volts and the swcg is set up for 120 volts. Can you verify this?

If that's the case (make sure before you wire it up), then you would hook it up like below.
1. Red wire that's hooked to the black wires going to the pump & swcg, goes to terminal #1
2. Black wires going to pump & swcg, hooks to terminal #2
3. Red wire that's hooked to the black wires going to the pump, goes to terminal #3
4. Black wire going to pump, hooks to terminal #4
5. White wires going to swcg will remain connected as is.
6. All three grounds should be connected together.
7. There should also be a bonding wire from the grid to both the swcg and the pump.

 

[jrhAR]

Thanks very much for your reply, Dave. Yes, I just want the timer to start and stop both the pump and SWCG simultaneously.

Today, I took the cover off the SWCG Power Center to see if I could determine whether it's wired for 120v or 240v. Although there was a strip of paper printed "Wired for 220v/240v" partially stuck to a yellow wire inside, I traced the wiring out and found that it matched the diagram in the manual for "115 VAC Basic System Wiring": The Blue and White wires from the Power Center transformer are tied with a wire nut to the White wire from the current timer box; the Yellow and Black wires from the Power Center transformer are tied to the Black wire from the timer box. (in the diagram for "230 VAC Basic System Wiring" the Blue and Black wires from the transformer are just tied together.) The confusing thing, however, is that the diagram for "115 VAC Basic System Wiring" shows a 110V Pool Pump! The label on my pump itself says IN: 1x230V +/-10% 50/60Hz; 14,2A 3.2kW; OUT: 3x0-230V 20-175Hz 8,3A.

Assuming that I do have a 240V pump and an SWCG wired for 120V, I think I understand your wiring directions, including that the white wires are only tied together and don't connect to the timer's terminals at all. But, what do you mean by a "bonding wire from the grid"? Also, then, the timer's "A" terminal isn't used at all?

Jim

 

[Bama Rambler]

... But, what do you mean by a "bonding wire from the grid"?

Your pool should have a bonding grid of #8 bare wire ran to all metallic and electrical equipment. There's usually a lug on an external part of the equipment. There should be a bare wire from that lug tied to the bonding grid around the pool. This should already be in place. I just mentioned it because sometimes when a piece of equipment is added after the initial build people forget to extend the bonding to it.

...Also, then, the timer's "A" terminal isn't used at all?

Right. The "A" terminal is used in other timer configurations, but it's not needed in this one since the clock is 240 volt it's just connected to terminals 1 & 3.

 

[Meadow]

Not sure if the suggestions here are for the T104 timer. But why not use the existing Tork 1103 if it is functional. It has a clock motor rated at 120V but capable of switching 220 volts load. just my 2 cents!

Tork 1103 Wiring Diagram

 

[jrhAR]

Dave, I checked and did find a bare wire running from the bottom of the IC40 Control Panel case to the ground, where it was covered by earth and runs around the corner of the house toward the pool, so it must be going to the pool bonding grid. I found another label on the pump that mentions which gauge wire to use for bonding wire, but I couldn't find any such wire coming from the pump.

BTW, there are 4 wires coming into the timer box: 2 red, 1 white, 1 bare. I get that the 2 red are each 240V, but what is the white carrying? 120V?

At any rate, the T104P timer is backordered and won't be delivered until next week. When the weather cools off enough, I'll try to install it.

Meadow, I'm not using the existing Tork timer because I don't know if it works. I'm guessing the previous owners had its circuitry bypassed because it didn't work or stopped, and just used its housing for a junction box.

 

[Bama Rambler]

The two reds are L1 & L2, the white is neutral, which is required for 120 volts. The bare should be ground.

If the bonding wire is ran to the swcg but not to the pump, you can run a piece of wire from the swcg to the pump bonding lug using bonding connectors to connect them together.

 

[jrhAR]

My Intermatic T104R unexpectedly shipped early, and I got it and installed it yesterday. Physically replacing the deeper Tork box with it was more trouble than the wiring, thanks to your help. This morning, the pump and SWCG both turned on and off as scheduled. Many thanks, Dave!!!

 

[Bama Rambler]

Thank you for coming back and letting us know how it turned out. And you're very welcome.